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Old 05-29-2014, 04:15 PM   #1
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I screwed up while bleeding my brakes

I had my wife pump the pedal doing the usual routine when I forgot to top off the reservoir and sucked in a massive air bubble. Oops! Now I think I might have a massive air bubble trapped in the ABS. No matter how much more bleeding the pedal still goes to the floor after I leave it alone for a few minutes. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Chris

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Old 05-29-2014, 05:17 PM   #2
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Same club. I'll post more when I get home.

My pedal is rock hard if pumped with car off. Stays that way. Car on, 2-3rd pump brakes well, but 1st push softly drops. 3/4 way down then brakes uneven.

Just bought pimp up style bleeder. Can't wait to make this right.
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:20 PM   #3
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Chris sounds like your going to need some more brake fluid. Shoot me a pm I have a power bleeder you can use this weekend. Your in my neck of the woods.
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:37 PM   #4
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Shoot me a pm I have a power bleeder you can use this weekend.
Class. Pure class!
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Old 05-30-2014, 06:53 AM   #5
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I had my wife pump the pedal doing the usual routine when I forgot to top off the reservoir and sucked in a massive air bubble. Oops! Now I think I might have a massive air bubble trapped in the ABS. No matter how much more bleeding the pedal still goes to the floor after I leave it alone for a few minutes. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Chris
You are going to need a PST II, PIWIS, or Durametric system to cycle the ABS/PSM network while bleeding the car, that is the only way to get air our of the ABS system. Simple pressure flushing or pumping the brakes is not going to do it.
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Old 05-30-2014, 11:42 AM   #6
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FWIW, it's $200-$250 at my P car dealer to flush the fluid and get the air out.

Or I can buy a PC laptop and the Durametric. For now I'll have P flush it.
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Old 05-30-2014, 03:02 PM   #7
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I have the Durametric. I didn't know there was a section that will help flush or cycle the ABS. This will be interesting. I will try it when I get home on Sunday.
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Old 05-30-2014, 10:27 PM   #8
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Is it an inline ABS system? I mean does the abs have a separate fill bottle?

This is a bit less than proper for some, but heres what I do when I flush my own brakes:

Run the bleeder hose a few inches up (like through the spring) and into a container. crack open the bleeder. When you push the pedal, fluid goes out (and air bubbles if thats the case). when you release the pedal, it may suck back in some fluid, but not the air, thanks gravity. I do this all the time as I have no local car friends.

As for air in the system. I've bled the old fluid out of the system, so its pretty much all new, clear fluid. What I've done is run a brake hose from the bleeder nipple all the way to the fluid resovoir on the MC. Yes, you may want towels for this - as brake fluid makes a decent paint thinner. when you open the bleeder, pump the pedal and fluid will make its way through the hose to the resovoir. check every 10 or 12 pumps to make sure the fluid level doesn't go low. By doing this, you can sit in the car and pump the pedal a hundred times or so and all of the air will push through the system, out the hose and into the resovoir where the bubbles float to the top and pop.

if the abs system works in the way that most other makes of cars do, this should work fine. I've done this on Hondas, Nissans, Astons, Toyotas and Mitsubishis and was never unable to bleed a car myself like this.

The bleeder hose by the way has an inner diameter of 3/16" if I recall. its roughly 30 cents a foot at a local hardware store.

Remember to bleed the outer bleeder valve first and then the inner one.

Hope this helps and that I'm not overstepping my bounds here.
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Old 05-31-2014, 04:51 AM   #9
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Is it an inline ABS system? I mean does the abs have a separate fill bottle?

This is a bit less than proper for some, but heres what I do when I flush my own brakes:

Run the bleeder hose a few inches up (like through the spring) and into a container. crack open the bleeder. When you push the pedal, fluid goes out (and air bubbles if thats the case). when you release the pedal, it may suck back in some fluid, but not the air, thanks gravity. I do this all the time as I have no local car friends.

As for air in the system. I've bled the old fluid out of the system, so its pretty much all new, clear fluid. What I've done is run a brake hose from the bleeder nipple all the way to the fluid resovoir on the MC. Yes, you may want towels for this - as brake fluid makes a decent paint thinner. when you open the bleeder, pump the pedal and fluid will make its way through the hose to the resovoir. check every 10 or 12 pumps to make sure the fluid level doesn't go low. By doing this, you can sit in the car and pump the pedal a hundred times or so and all of the air will push through the system, out the hose and into the resovoir where the bubbles float to the top and pop.

if the abs system works in the way that most other makes of cars do, this should work fine. I've done this on Hondas, Nissans, Astons, Toyotas and Mitsubishis and was never unable to bleed a car myself like this.

The bleeder hose by the way has an inner diameter of 3/16" if I recall. its roughly 30 cents a foot at a local hardware store.

Remember to bleed the outer bleeder valve first and then the inner one.

Hope this helps and that I'm not overstepping my bounds here.
Great post. I'll try this in an hour or two. Thanks!
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:12 AM   #10
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Ran motive bleeder forever. Pumped brakes a lot. Watched stream of micro bubbles come through.

Bottom line is this will be great next time, but the pedal still drops. Not nearly as bad, and second pump is way firmer, but needs the abs done. Got all the green fluid with dark clouds out. Straight nearly clear fluid now. Should be minimal charge to bleed the abs.
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:15 AM   #11
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. Should be minimal charge to bleed the abs.
Figure on spending $100.
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Old 05-31-2014, 11:19 AM   #12
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Figure on spending $100.
Can't pull that cash out fast enough. Was quoted $200 at Strong Porsche.
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Old 05-31-2014, 11:59 AM   #13
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Can't pull that cash out fast enough. Was quoted $200 at Strong Porsche.
And for $287, you can have the tool to do it yourself as many times as you want, plus diagnostic's, and you can sell it on when you leave Porsches. Doesn't really make sense, does it?
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Old 05-31-2014, 12:11 PM   #14
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And for $287, you can have the tool to do it yourself as many times as you want, plus diagnostic's, and you can sell it on when you leave Porsches. Doesn't really make sense, does it?
Don't have a PC. So it's the Durametric and a PC just to get these brakes bled. I'm glad to pay this and buy a PC laptop & Dura with my next draw from this big job I'm on. I do enough that I need the tool. Too bad it won't do my wife's VW Touareg.
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Old 06-01-2014, 05:20 PM   #15
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I have the Durametric, but nowhere does it do anything with ABS, only reads codes, so I may have to tow mine to get the ABS bled. I am going to try the pressure bleeder tomorrow. BTW, a BIG thanks to RP17 for loaning me his pressure bleeder!! Thank you Randy!! And if anyone local needs a code read I will spread this good Karma... I'll come over and read it for you and save you $300.
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Old 06-02-2014, 01:55 AM   #16
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I have the Durametric, but nowhere does it do anything with ABS, only reads codes, so I may have to tow mine to get the ABS bled. I am going to try the pressure bleeder tomorrow. BTW, a BIG thanks to RP17 for loaning me his pressure bleeder!! Thank you Randy!! And if anyone local needs a code read I will spread this good Karma... I'll come over and read it for you and save you $300.
All Durametric software are capable of cycling the ABS/PSM pump during brake bleeding:



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Old 06-02-2014, 08:01 AM   #17
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Thank you JFP! My version doesn't look anything like yours. I called Durametric tech support and they suggested I download the latest software and that should do it. There isn't any difference in feature set in the software like you suggest. So tonight when I get home I will upgrade!! You guys rock.
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Old 06-02-2014, 02:17 PM   #18
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OK, One hurdle complete. I upgraded my software 6.3 and the ABS functions show up!! I also determined I have the 2nd generation cable, whew.. dodged a bullet there. So... my screen looks a bit different that JFP's version 6.1. I'm a bit nervous and will proceed slowly so I won't further screw up. Stay tuned guys!

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Old 06-02-2014, 02:53 PM   #19
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OK, One hurdle complete. I upgraded my software 6.3 and the ABS functions show up!! I also determined I have the 2nd generation cable, whew.. dodged a bullet there. So... my screen looks a bit different that JFP's version 6.1. I'm a bit nervous and will proceed slowly so I won't further screw up. Stay tuned guys!

Please post if you just run the two pumps or the valves or what you do. Still looking at going this route.
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Old 06-02-2014, 04:48 PM   #20
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So far I have been able to control the ABS light and the information light. That does turn on the ABS light on the dash, but clicking the off button didnt turn it off. So I cycled the ignition key off/on to clear the light. So I took my chances and clicked the booster pump on button and nothing happened, then clicked the off button. Nothing happened... no noise, no click, no pump motor noise. So to be safe I cycled the ign switch and shut down the app. I need to find a more detailed procedure to bleed. Nothing detailed enough in my Bentley service manual. Time for a cold beer and a shower hopefully more tomorrow.

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