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		|  04-17-2014, 10:12 AM | #1 |  
	| I am my own mechanic.... 
				 
				Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Salt Lake City, UT 
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				The delicate art of breaking in brake pads....
			 
 
			So The Pagdin on the front run great. New rotors with previous pads. Silent.  
I replaced rear pads a year back (Texstar), then a month after that, decided on new rotors, rear. The new rotors did come with a small slip of paper saying new pads must be used. I figured since pads were only a month old, that's pretty new. 
 
Not.....
 
So now there's a squeak. Always there. Tried resurfacing the pads. Works for a week or so, then same results. Tried Napa Gold pads, rear, since they are very close to my shop. Major squeak, from the 3rd stop on. Resurfaced Texstar pads (on flat ground, perfectly flat with drywall sandpaper) and reinstall. Way better, but squeak is back. Those pads are about 2/3 down now, and I'll buy new pads today. 
 
Question is, where do I find the proper break in procedure? Is there any chance I damaged the rotors? Shiny, new, flat. Seem perfect, no discoloration. The squeak is always right at that perfect soft breaking point when you drift to a stop. Anything less or more and it's silent. 
 
I have never used any brake sprays or that pad grease. Am I missing something??
 
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
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		|  04-17-2014, 10:31 AM | #2 |  
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			Did my brakes last year - Zimmerman rotors, not drilled or slotted, Brembo pads on the front, Textars on the rear 
No squeak, squeal, or any other noise ever. I used the anti-squeal pads that Pelican used to sell, but apparently no longer carry. I'm sure they must be available somewhere else. I broke them in as per directions in some thread in the forum, can't remember which one. Basically, it was a series of long slow stops with medium pressure from increasing speeds, allowing the rotors/pads to cool in between stops. Did about 10 or 12 of these if I remember right. Avoided hard braking/sudden stops for the first couple of weeks. Seems to have worked for me. 
 
No 7th round stoppage either!   
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		|  04-17-2014, 10:58 AM | #3 |  
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			Shiny rotors may be glazed.   If it were me I'd have at the friction surface with 180 grit and an orbital (or similar) sander just enough to take off the shine.  You could have them machined but that would be a waste of the rotor material.
		 
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		|  04-17-2014, 11:28 AM | #4 |  
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				Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: DFW 
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by Timco  Question is, where do I find the proper break in procedure? Is there any chance I damaged the rotors? Shiny, new, flat. Seem perfect, no discoloration. The squeak is always right at that perfect soft breaking point when you drift to a stop. Anything less or more and it's silent. 
 I have never used any brake sprays or that pad grease. Am I missing something??
 
 THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
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Timco, there is a proper break in procedure for new pads on a old rotor.  It consist of driving in a open parking lot at various speeds and slowing down to about 5mph BUT not coming to a complete stop.  Heating up the pads and rotors to prevent thermal shock but ultimately leaving a thin layer of brake pad material on the rotors.  Bedding in the pads I think its called.  Perhaps someone else can point you in the right direction.  If not, I think I have the pdf at home.
 
Also are you using the anti squeal pad inserts that stick to the back of the pads?  Just asking because not everyone uses this.
		 
				__________________What we're dealing with here is a complete lack of respect for the law.
 
				 Last edited by rp17; 04-17-2014 at 11:43 AM.
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		|  04-17-2014, 11:48 AM | #5 |  
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				__________________What we're dealing with here is a complete lack of respect for the law.
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		|  04-17-2014, 11:58 AM | #6 |  
	| Registered User 
				 
				Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: FL 
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by rp17   |  
That is the procedure I followed when I put new front rotors on my 2000S but kept the existing brake pads (since they were 90%+). No noise and I got the bluish tint on the rotors and also the fade just like the procedure said.
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		|  04-17-2014, 12:59 PM | #7 |  
	| I am my own mechanic.... 
				 
				Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Salt Lake City, UT 
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by Mark_T  Did my brakes last year - Zimmerman rotors, not drilled or slotted, Brembo pads on the front, Textars on the rear 
No squeak, squeal, or any other noise ever. I used the anti-squeal pads that Pelican used to sell, but apparently no longer carry. I'm sure they must be available somewhere else. I broke them in as per directions in some thread in the forum, can't remember which one. Basically, it was a series of long slow stops with medium pressure from increasing speeds, allowing the rotors/pads to cool in between stops. Did about 10 or 12 of these if I remember right. Avoided hard braking/sudden stops for the first couple of weeks. Seems to have worked for me. 
 
No 7th round stoppage either!   |  
I load for mine and have to weed out loose clips. That and a spring kit. Runs sweet. Got the mil spec loads down very well for different weights. That, the carbine, and the 03A3 are my favorites at the range or in the desert. PING!!!
		 
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		|  04-17-2014, 03:41 PM | #8 |  
	| I am my own mechanic.... 
				 
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by rp17  Timco, there is a proper break in procedure for new pads on a old rotor.  It consist of driving in a open parking lot at various speeds and slowing down to about 5mph BUT not coming to a complete stop.  Heating up the pads and rotors to prevent thermal shock but ultimately leaving a thin layer of brake pad material on the rotors.  Bedding in the pads I think its called.  Perhaps someone else can point you in the right direction.  If not, I think I have the pdf at home.
 Also are you using the anti squeal pad inserts that stick to the back of the pads?  Just asking because not everyone uses this.
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There are discs that seem to be glued or attached to the pistons of the calipers. No other parts or grease or glue.
		 
				__________________'04 Boxster S 50 Jahre 550 Spyder Anniversary Special Edition, 851 of 1953, 6-sp, IMS/RMS, GT Metallic silver, cocoa brown leather SOLD to member Broken Linkage.
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		|  04-17-2014, 03:44 PM | #9 |  
	| I am my own mechanic.... 
				 
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by Jamesp  Shiny rotors may be glazed.   If it were me I'd have at the friction surface with 180 grit and an orbital (or similar) sander just enough to take off the shine.  You could have them machined but that would be a waste of the rotor material. |  
I will do this too. Since I have slight squeal from fronts occasionally now, I am going to haze over the surfaces all the way around, resurface front pads, add new rear pads, follow instructions. I certainly never got them hot.
		 
				__________________'04 Boxster S 50 Jahre 550 Spyder Anniversary Special Edition, 851 of 1953, 6-sp, IMS/RMS, GT Metallic silver, cocoa brown leather SOLD to member Broken Linkage.
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		|  04-17-2014, 03:46 PM | #10 |  
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by Timco  PING!!! |  
I love that - brings a grin on every time.
		 
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		|  04-17-2014, 07:53 PM | #11 |  
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			Go out on a road where you can get up to  100 mph and you will not encounter any traffic.  Go 100 mph and stand on brakes until you hit the ABS.  Repeat 3or4 times. Your brakes are now broken in.
		 
				__________________Current car
 
 2000 Boxster 2.7l  red/black
 
 Previous cars
 
 1973 Opel Manta
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		|  04-18-2014, 02:55 AM | #12 |  
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by rp17   |  
I remember when I was young and tried this after putting pads on my sisters Grand-Am, I literally set the pads on fire! Note: not for cheap-ass grocery-getter brake pads!
 
Now I don't do any of that, just drive easy for a few days, then maybe a few hardish stops. no problems or squeals with EBC Red's.
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		|  04-18-2014, 05:17 AM | #13 |  
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by san rensho  Go out on a road where you can get up to  100 mph and you will not encounter any traffic.  Go 100 mph and stand on brakes until you hit the ABS.  Repeat 3or4 times. Your brakes are now broken in. |  
And the winner in the category "worst advice ever"...
		 
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		|  05-03-2014, 04:45 AM | #14 |  
	| I am my own mechanic.... 
				 
				Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Salt Lake City, UT 
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			So I followed the article linked to the T. I have all new pads. They came out with the color and haze like the article. 
 Worst squeal ever! Sometimes all 4, sometimes that repeated squeak, squeak, squeak as you drive slow. If cruising slow and even touch brakes, it's really awful.
 
 Going to order ceramic and try that today. May be time for some magic no squeal sprays until they arrive.
 
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		|  05-03-2014, 05:11 AM | #16 |  
	| I am my own mechanic.... 
				 
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by coreseller   |  
Thanks. I see this but my pads typically stick to those discs that stay stuck to the pistons. Wasn't sure if I wanted the grease or for them to bond. I'll try this first. 
 
It's soo embarrassing to have loud squeaking brakes.    
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		|  05-03-2014, 07:02 AM | #17 |  
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			Use this on the back of the pads, then perform the break in procedure where you heat to brakes to fade.   
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		|  05-04-2014, 09:17 AM | #18 |  
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			The noise is from a high pitch vibration. The grease is applied on the back and any other contact  points on the back and side of the pads, not on the face of the pads of the pads. If they still make noise you may have to grind a groove or a champfer on the face of the pads to help them brake in.
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		|  05-04-2014, 02:23 PM | #19 |  
	| I am my own mechanic.... 
				 
				Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Salt Lake City, UT 
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			Used the product pictured above. Silent all the way home. Slight noise as I pulled into my garage but wanted the product to dry overnight before I do the break-in procedure tomorrow. 
 Thanks for the replies.
 
 
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