Proper Way to Wash a Porsche?

[Johnny Danger]

Originally Posted by shadrach74

JD, simple green is infact corrosive to aluminum. It is why simple green came up with an aviation formula. You can use it, but rinse very thoroughly...

From the simple green website:

Aluminum - Is it safe to use Simple Green® on aluminum?
When used with caution and according to the instructions, Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner has been safely and successfully used to clean aluminum. Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner, Crystal Simple Green® Cleaner/Degreaser, Simple Green Pressure Washer Concentrates, and Pro Series™ Simple Green® Automotive Cleaner have been used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years. However, caution and common sense must be used: aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times for unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green® product residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.
Simple Green has also developed break-through water based cleaners that are safe for use on metals, plastics, rubber and high tech alloys. Extreme Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner and Simple Green® Pro HD are available on both the industrial and retail markets, respectively. These products were initially developed for the aircraft industry and extensive testing shows that they are safe and effective on a variety of metals and other sensitive surfaces even in the most extreme circumstances.

Simple Green® Stainless Steel One Step Cleaner & Polish is another option for cleaning polished aluminum. This product is designed for light duty metal cleaning and polishing.

I have used Simple Green on virtually every kind of aluminum part for years with zero negative effects.

[Johnny Danger]

Originally Posted by kashmir

So I tried this and this is how the boxster came out, I may have used to much olive oil.

Was it virgin olive oil ?

[kashmir]

Originally Posted by Johnny Danger

Was it virgin olive oil ?

I thinks so, I bought it on ebay from Deutsche Parts USA.

[shadrach74]

Originally Posted by Johnny Danger

I have used Simple Green on virtually every kind of aluminum part for years with zero negative effects.

Danger, I'm not suggesting that you haven't. I think the above statement is fair. Saying that "it does not react adversely to aluminum or other metals", not so much.

Your credibility is high around here Johnny, just trying to help you maintain your standards...

I've seen evidence that it causes surface corrosion on airplane skins.

[Porsche Pete]

OMG i tried the Olive Oil trick on the Boxster...funny thing is it attracts all the birds !! Lol !!

[Porsche Pete]

Crikey it was a battle getting it all off...used a scraper and a chisel...dont think ive done too much damage ???

[Meir]

Originally Posted by Porsche Pete

Crikey it was a battle getting it all off...used a scraper and a chisel...dont think ive done too much damage ???

nothing a good polish cant fix.

[CoBeerToad]

So if I decide that I want to claybar my '97, what steps should I take first? I would imagine there are many years of wax and grime and stuff on my car (still looks good though). Would I benefit from trying to remove all that gunk first and how would I do that without stripping the paint off?

[Porsche Pete]

For Clay Barring its really a simple process and NOT a taboo subject..ITS dead easy..

There are loads of good You Tube vids....will find a `Good one` and put the link here in a moment.. Here we go....


Car Claying - YouTube


1) Just wash the car thoroughly, no need to dry...

If you buy the Meguairs kit it comes with a detailing spray that acts as a application spray. Found this kit best value for money as it comes with MORE clay bar

2) Pull about a quarter of the clay bar off ONE of the bars (KIT COMES WITH 2 BARS) and work this into a flat shape, about half the size of a fried egg!

3) Work a panel at a time, spray with the fluid and then rub the clay bar over in a back and forward movement until it becomes very smooth..u will see as you use it

4) WIPE off with a good quality microfibre cloth to polish as you go
5) After working over the whole car, finish with a good coat or two of a good quality wax.

6) ON NO ACCOUNT If you drop your clay bar you MUST throw it away..otherwise it will pick up grit, which you will work into your paint..

Your car paint will come up like Glass....Have fun

Let me know how you get on....... Pete

[Perfectlap]

Originally Posted by CoBeerToad

So if I decide that I want to claybar my '97, what steps should I take first? I would imagine there are many years of wax and grime and stuff on my car (still looks good though). Would I benefit from trying to remove all that gunk first and how would I do that without stripping the paint off?

that's what the claybar does. It strips everthing down to the clear coat. Some will wash the car with dishwashing soap to clear sediments first, althouh any car wash soap brand will work for this first stage wash. Then soap up the car again with the dish wash detergent and clay bar the sudsy surface. The dish was detergent will strip all the wax off. Then wash the car again to clear the wax that might remain on the surface. At this stage you should use a paint polish wax to clean the paint of the really stuck on contaminants. I recommend Werkstat Prime Strong. It's a "two in one" polish and sealant. After that's cured for a day you can top with whatever carnauba or synthetic wax you prefer.

Given the age of your car you migh consider doing a paint decontamination as well. Over the years rust and other metal particles can hook into the paint swirls or channels. Regular washing migh not get at this.
This has a good explanation
Finish Kare Paint Decontamination System, auto paint cleaning system, de-contamination solution

p.s.
The Meguiars is good but if you are near an Advanced Auto, the Griot's Garage brand clay is a better value.
It has a bigger clay bar, comes in a convenient air-tight jar to store the left over clay so it doesn't harden and Griot's don't force you to buy their detail spray like Megair's does, its just the clay. Any dilution of car wash soap (just enough soap to be slippery) will work with any clay bar. If you use too much soap no big deal since you have to wash the car again anyway.

[teleski]

Just used a clay bar for the first time ever on my 2000. I used the Meguiars kit. It removed a lot of stuff, especially the hood and rear deck. I used a whole bar from the kit and had to fold and kneed it a few times per panel. I also probably went through about half the bottle of detail spray. I was amazed at how smooth the finish was afterwards and it did not take very long, maybe 1/2 hour total which included doing a few sections twice.

[CoBeerToad]

Finally was able to put the clay bar on the car Sunday. On the Arctic Silver, I did not notice much difference in appearance. But to the touch, it was night and day.

First I washed the car. First wash of the year. Then I applied the Mother's claybar with the Mother's detail spray. At first it did not feel like anything was happening and I was starting to feel like a schmuck rubbing a piece of clay on my car. But after sliding my hand on applied and non-applied surfaces there was a huge difference. Then I washed it again. I heard there were two theories about whether to wash it after the claybar, so I just washed it anyway. Then I applied some Zymol car wax (I don't know what the "good" wax is, and this bottle looked the coolest so that is what I bought.

Car looks amazing. Better than it has looked in my 18 months of ownership. I'm very happy with how it looks on a 16 year old paint job.

Now I just have to figure out the right stuff to clean the top. It's very grey-ish and I'm not sure if that is just dust and dirt or just sun fading. Probably a little of both. I only need to clean the front section of the top as I'm not planning on putting the top up for quite a while. I love Chicago summers.

ETA: I'll get some pics up tomorrow.

[BruceH]

The clay does amazing stuff. You are right in the feel, night and day!

[Perfectlap]

Clay makes a big difference for waxing purposes. If you try to wax/top a dirty car, the end result will not be nearly as good. After claying (and washing again to be thorough) you should polish the paint. It fills swirls and gets at the remaining residues that simply pressing down on the paint from claying won't lift away. The surface will then be even and clean so that reflection from the light will not magnify either the swirls or stains.

[Flavor 987S]

Originally Posted by CoBeerToad

Now I just have to figure out the right stuff to clean the top. It's very grey-ish and I'm not sure if that is just dust and dirt or just sun fading. Probably a little of both. I only need to clean the front section of the top as I'm not planning on putting the top up for quite a while. I love Chicago summers.

ETA: I'll get some pics up tomorrow.

The Ragg Topp kit is very good 303 has a good product, too.

Prior to winter hibernation, I used the Ragg Topp cleaner and a quality Swiss cleaning brush. Then, this past weekend (7 months later....you only need to wait a day or two to make sure its very-very dry) I applied 3 medium coats (entire can) of the Ragg Topp protectant. Great results. I've done this every other year since 2006.

[johney]

I'm driving my Porsche Boxster in the winter and there's a lot of snow on the ground and salt and I want to know what's the safest way to wash my car to get the salt off I am worried about taking you to drive to car wash because I don't want to get the top with or for the water to leak again I don't want to pressure wash it at a local drive in car wash purchased recently I have never washed yetso I need your guyses help what's the safest way to wash it in work I take it to wash how do I wash

[rick3000]

There is no proper way to wash a car, but there are a number of things to avoid:
-Automatic Car Washes with tracks will destroy your rims
-Any car wash that sprays your canvas top with soap because it will strip any waterproofing you added
-Using a clay bar too often

I always go for a hand wash, or DIY. To deal with salt, I go to a coin car wash and use the high pressure water to spray under the car and around the wheels.

[Perfectlap]

Originally Posted by johney

I'm driving my Porsche Boxster in the winter and there's a lot of snow on the ground and salt and I want to know what's the safest way to wash my car to get the salt off I am worried about taking you to drive to car wash because I don't want to get the top with or for the water to leak again I don't want to pressure wash it at a local drive in car wash purchased recently I have never washed yetso I need your guyses help what's the safest way to wash it in work I take it to wash how do I wash

Do you have access to a parking garage? or have your own garage where you can plug a space heater into a wall socket? If so then I would suggest stopping by home Depot or Harbor Freight. Buy one of those buckets that hold like two gallons, if you have to travel to get to the parking garage get a lid for the bucket. Then stop by Wal-Mart and get a bottle of Turtle Wax Rinse Free Wash and Wax (blue liquid) for $7.
Pour 2-3 ounces of that in the bucket full of warm water. Also pick up an absorber type sponge ($5) 2 chenille wash mitts ($6 each) and a very soft bristtle brush with a short handle. Also get some blue shop towels. Pre-soak the car buy dunking the chenille wash sponge into the bucket and let the water trickle all over the car. Make sure the car is nice and wet. Then wipe the car from end to end in one long pass in the directio of the wind. Dunk the sponge again to clean it off. Repeat with another long pass. Dunk it again. Repeat this process until the car is clean. With the remaining water in the bucket use the soft bristle brush to wipe down your wheels. You can also dunk the seet of the blue shop towels really get into the lug holes and everywhere else. Then sprak the car down with a quick detailer spray but the best is to use a waterless car wash spray like Griot's (green liquid). They sell this at Advanced Auto over the counter if you live near one. Be sure to get their blue and green towels, its the only ones I will use on my paint now. Now the car is clean and you can follow up with a spray wax to add some gloss.

p.s.
I keep a few gallons of distilled water in the trunk to use with the Turtle Wax Risne Free liquid. Wal-Mart sells these blue buckets in the car detailing section that will easily fit in the front trunk. But yesterday the car was really dirty and since the weather was above 55 degrees I decided to wash it at one of those coin-operated car washes. In the trunk I keep a zip lock bag full of towels, a chenille wash sponge and a small amount of car wash soap in a recycled 2 ounce bottle of saline solution.
So basically I use my own soap, sponges and towels. I only use the car wash brush on the wheels and of course use the high pressure sprayer on the canvas and paint. But most of the time I use the waterless washing method since that's what is easiest on the paint and quickest. I do have a foam gun but the car rarely gets that dirty and I only use that sort of thing during summer.

[nieuwhzn]

If it's freezing then just don't do anything, except when you can really hose down the car and put it in a heated garage. Adding little bits of water will just activate the salt and/or freeze.
If it's not freezing then hose down the car with a LOT of water and also spray the underside. In general always hose down the car before you do anything. All the crud will make for a nice abrasive when you start rubbing down the car with cleaner, wax, whatever. After the hose down you can use your favorite wash, cleaner, etc., etc.

I never do much cleaning of my cars during the salty days. Just before winter I give them a last polish and a nice layer of good quality wax (also on the rims) and that's it until spring. The only exception is when I have to go to Boston. Driving around there is like driving through the sea, the amount of salt they put on the roads is beyond belief!

Stay away from car washes, especially the touch-less ones. They all are using really aggressive chemicals that strip all protection from your car.

Of course the best is to store your Boxster for the winter. Every springtime you have that exciting moment that you taking it out for the first time in months
Argh, I hate winter

[scottvd]

Originally Posted by Porsche Chick

Okay, so far I've heard; wash it a lot, don't hardly wash it, use a brush, don't dare use a brush, dry it with a towel, dry it with a leaf blower, dry it by driving it, add oil to the water, don't add oil. Also, it can be washed by small children, half dressed twits, or ex-singers/breakfast purveyors with giant hats. Plus I have no idea what a clay bar is.

I think you guys need to come to some kind of consensus and get back to me.

LOL +1 ^^

10char