Proper Way to Wash a Porsche?

[Porsche Chick]

Okay, so far I've heard; wash it a lot, don't hardly wash it, use a brush, don't dare use a brush, dry it with a towel, dry it with a leaf blower, dry it by driving it, add oil to the water, don't add oil. Also, it can be washed by small children, half dressed twits, or ex-singers/breakfast purveyors with giant hats. Plus I have no idea what a clay bar is.

I think you guys need to come to some kind of consensus and get back to me.

[Johnny Danger]

Originally Posted by Porsche Chick

Okay, so far I've heard; wash it a lot, don't hardly wash it, use a brush, don't dare use a brush, dry it with a towel, dry it with a leaf blower, dry it by driving it, add oil to the water, don't add oil. Also, it can be washed by small children, half dressed twits, or ex-singers/breakfast purveyors with giant hats. Plus I have no idea what a clay bar is.

I think you guys need to come to some kind of consensus and get back to me.

The oil thing aside, here's my ditty:

Washing- first rinse the vehicle thoroughly, then use a mild soap (I like to use shampoo) and microfiber mitt for washing -
side to side, up and down, or circular motion notwithstanding.

Drying - I personally like the technique of using a leaf blower to get most of the water off,
followed with a high quality synthetic chamois to remove the remaining water.

Waxing- keep the paint "feed" regularly with a good quality wax, polish or detailer. As far
as which brand to use, recommendations will run the gamut. We all have our favorites,
so I'll let others chime in. At least you're not dealing with a dark color like black. Although,
red has it's own challenges by virtue of the fact that it's a weak pigment.

Wheel Cleaning & Exhaust Tips - I like to use Simple Green for cleaning wheels, exhaust
tips and other non-painted trim areas. It does not react adversely to aluminum or other metals,
to include painted surfaces. Beware of knock-off products that do.

Bug, Tar, Road Stains & Clear Bra edges - I've used everything from a simple degreaser, to
spray silicone to Goof-Off. I recommend testing any of these in an inconspicuous area first.

Black Wheels- My favorite detailer for this, believe it or not, is Pledge. By applying a light mist, and
letting it set-up - it will yield an amazing luster.

ClayBar - Because my vehicle is driven so seldom, and it's never subjected to the "elements", I've had no need to use Clay Bar. So, I'll let others give their advice on that topic.

[shadrach74]

Originally Posted by Johnny Danger

The oil thing aside, here's my ditty:

Washing- first rinse the vehicle thoroughly, then use a mild soap (I like to use shampoo) and microfiber mitt for washing -
side to side, up and down, or circular motion notwithstanding.

Drying - I personally like the technique of using a leaf blower to get most of the water off,
followed with a high quality synthetic chamois to remove the remaining water.

Waxing- keep the paint "feed" regularly with a good quality wax, polish or detailer. As far
as which brand to use, recommendations will run the gamut. We all have our favorites,
so I'll let others chime in. At least you're not dealing with a dark color like black. Although,
red has it's own challenges by virtue of the fact that it's a weak pigment.

Wheel Cleaning & Exhaust Tips - I like to use Simple Green for cleaning wheels, exhaust
tips and other non-painted trim areas. It does not react adversely to aluminum or other metals,
to include painted surfaces. Beware of knock-off products that do.

Bug, Tar, Road Stains & Clear Bra edges - I've used everything from a simple degreaser, to
spray silicone to Goof-Off. I recommend testing any of these in an inconspicuous area first.

Black Wheels- My favorite detailer for this, believe it or not, is Pledge. By applying a light mist, and
letting it set-up - it will yield an amazing luster.

ClayBar - Because my vehicle is driven so seldom, and it's never subjected to the "elements", I've had no need to use Clay Bar. So, I'll let others give their advice on that topic.

JD, simple green is infact corrosive to aluminum. It is why simple green came up with an aviation formula. You can use it, but rinse very thoroughly...

From the simple green website:

Aluminum - Is it safe to use Simple Green® on aluminum?
When used with caution and according to the instructions, Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner has been safely and successfully used to clean aluminum. Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner, Crystal Simple Green® Cleaner/Degreaser, Simple Green Pressure Washer Concentrates, and Pro Series™ Simple Green® Automotive Cleaner have been used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years. However, caution and common sense must be used: aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times for unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green® product residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.
Simple Green has also developed break-through water based cleaners that are safe for use on metals, plastics, rubber and high tech alloys. Extreme Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner and Simple Green® Pro HD are available on both the industrial and retail markets, respectively. These products were initially developed for the aircraft industry and extensive testing shows that they are safe and effective on a variety of metals and other sensitive surfaces even in the most extreme circumstances.

Simple Green® Stainless Steel One Step Cleaner & Polish is another option for cleaning polished aluminum. This product is designed for light duty metal cleaning and polishing.

[dbear61]

Lots of good information in this thread: http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/35847-best-wax-car.html
I follow Spinnaker's technique in post #9.

If you search the forum, you'll find threads on washing, waxing, top care, rear window care, interior care, cleaning drain tubes, cleaning radiator screens, etc.

DBear

[Johnny Danger]

Originally Posted by shadrach74

JD, simple green is infact corrosive to aluminum. It is why simple green came up with an aviation formula. You can use it, but rinse very thoroughly...

From the simple green website:

Aluminum - Is it safe to use Simple Green® on aluminum?
When used with caution and according to the instructions, Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner has been safely and successfully used to clean aluminum. Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner, Crystal Simple Green® Cleaner/Degreaser, Simple Green Pressure Washer Concentrates, and Pro Series™ Simple Green® Automotive Cleaner have been used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years. However, caution and common sense must be used: aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times for unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green® product residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.
Simple Green has also developed break-through water based cleaners that are safe for use on metals, plastics, rubber and high tech alloys. Extreme Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner and Simple Green® Pro HD are available on both the industrial and retail markets, respectively. These products were initially developed for the aircraft industry and extensive testing shows that they are safe and effective on a variety of metals and other sensitive surfaces even in the most extreme circumstances.

Simple Green® Stainless Steel One Step Cleaner & Polish is another option for cleaning polished aluminum. This product is designed for light duty metal cleaning and polishing.

I have used Simple Green on virtually every kind of aluminum part for years with zero negative effects.

[shadrach74]

Originally Posted by Johnny Danger

I have used Simple Green on virtually every kind of aluminum part for years with zero negative effects.

Danger, I'm not suggesting that you haven't. I think the above statement is fair. Saying that "it does not react adversely to aluminum or other metals", not so much.

Your credibility is high around here Johnny, just trying to help you maintain your standards...

I've seen evidence that it causes surface corrosion on airplane skins.

[Porsche Pete]

OMG i tried the Olive Oil trick on the Boxster...funny thing is it attracts all the birds !! Lol !!

[Porsche Pete]

Crikey it was a battle getting it all off...used a scraper and a chisel...dont think ive done too much damage ???

[BruceH]

Originally Posted by Porsche Chick

Plus I have no idea what a clay bar is.

I think you guys need to come to some kind of consensus and get back to me.

You really have to try claying your car. The results are amazing IMO. On a Boxster, it really doesn't take long to do. When you are done, your paint will feel like glass. The clay removes the surface contaminants. Just keep the surface well lubricated and if you drop the bar, throw it away.

Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System : Amazon.com : Automotive

I have also been following Spinaker's advice on washing and waxing in a straight line:
Best wax for the car ???

[CoBeerToad]

So if I decide that I want to claybar my '97, what steps should I take first? I would imagine there are many years of wax and grime and stuff on my car (still looks good though). Would I benefit from trying to remove all that gunk first and how would I do that without stripping the paint off?

[Porsche Pete]

For Clay Barring its really a simple process and NOT a taboo subject..ITS dead easy..

There are loads of good You Tube vids....will find a `Good one` and put the link here in a moment.. Here we go....


Car Claying - YouTube


1) Just wash the car thoroughly, no need to dry...

If you buy the Meguairs kit it comes with a detailing spray that acts as a application spray. Found this kit best value for money as it comes with MORE clay bar

2) Pull about a quarter of the clay bar off ONE of the bars (KIT COMES WITH 2 BARS) and work this into a flat shape, about half the size of a fried egg!

3) Work a panel at a time, spray with the fluid and then rub the clay bar over in a back and forward movement until it becomes very smooth..u will see as you use it

4) WIPE off with a good quality microfibre cloth to polish as you go
5) After working over the whole car, finish with a good coat or two of a good quality wax.

6) ON NO ACCOUNT If you drop your clay bar you MUST throw it away..otherwise it will pick up grit, which you will work into your paint..

Your car paint will come up like Glass....Have fun

Let me know how you get on....... Pete

[teleski]

Just used a clay bar for the first time ever on my 2000. I used the Meguiars kit. It removed a lot of stuff, especially the hood and rear deck. I used a whole bar from the kit and had to fold and kneed it a few times per panel. I also probably went through about half the bottle of detail spray. I was amazed at how smooth the finish was afterwards and it did not take very long, maybe 1/2 hour total which included doing a few sections twice.

[CoBeerToad]

Finally was able to put the clay bar on the car Sunday. On the Arctic Silver, I did not notice much difference in appearance. But to the touch, it was night and day.

First I washed the car. First wash of the year. Then I applied the Mother's claybar with the Mother's detail spray. At first it did not feel like anything was happening and I was starting to feel like a schmuck rubbing a piece of clay on my car. But after sliding my hand on applied and non-applied surfaces there was a huge difference. Then I washed it again. I heard there were two theories about whether to wash it after the claybar, so I just washed it anyway. Then I applied some Zymol car wax (I don't know what the "good" wax is, and this bottle looked the coolest so that is what I bought.

Car looks amazing. Better than it has looked in my 18 months of ownership. I'm very happy with how it looks on a 16 year old paint job.

Now I just have to figure out the right stuff to clean the top. It's very grey-ish and I'm not sure if that is just dust and dirt or just sun fading. Probably a little of both. I only need to clean the front section of the top as I'm not planning on putting the top up for quite a while. I love Chicago summers.

ETA: I'll get some pics up tomorrow.

[Flavor 987S]

Originally Posted by CoBeerToad

Now I just have to figure out the right stuff to clean the top. It's very grey-ish and I'm not sure if that is just dust and dirt or just sun fading. Probably a little of both. I only need to clean the front section of the top as I'm not planning on putting the top up for quite a while. I love Chicago summers.

ETA: I'll get some pics up tomorrow.

The Ragg Topp kit is very good 303 has a good product, too.

Prior to winter hibernation, I used the Ragg Topp cleaner and a quality Swiss cleaning brush. Then, this past weekend (7 months later....you only need to wait a day or two to make sure its very-very dry) I applied 3 medium coats (entire can) of the Ragg Topp protectant. Great results. I've done this every other year since 2006.

[Drphil]

I just did the clay bar treatment . when the car was dry but "clean" it did not feel silky glassy smooth - that is contaminant attached to the paint and when you wash it you will rub this across the surface causing clear coat scratches.

- so wash the car, then 2. use the clay bar cleaning as discussed below. it is AMAZING how well it cleans . .

3. then what i did was meguair's ultimate polish, the their liquid wax, have also used the yellow carnuba paste wax . the car now looks like brand new with a show room shine. people constantly ask when i bought the "new" car, pretty good for a 2000s, 14 year old car.

- for maintainence always use microfiber cloth, newly clean cloth, not abrasive brushes. A good soapy wash will grab the dust and dirt with out causing much scratching.

-inbetween i have used the same brand ultimate detailer.

hope that helps.

Originally Posted by Porsche Pete

For Clay Barring its really a simple process and NOT a taboo subject..ITS dead easy..

There are loads of good You Tube vids....will find a `Good one` and put the link here in a moment.. Here we go....


Car Claying - YouTube


1) Just wash the car thoroughly, no need to dry...

If you buy the Meguairs kit it comes with a detailing spray that acts as a application spray. Found this kit best value for money as it comes with MORE clay bar

2) Pull about a quarter of the clay bar off ONE of the bars (KIT COMES WITH 2 BARS) and work this into a flat shape, about half the size of a fried egg!

3) Work a panel at a time, spray with the fluid and then rub the clay bar over in a back and forward movement until it becomes very smooth..u will see as you use it

4) WIPE off with a good quality microfibre cloth to polish as you go
5) After working over the whole car, finish with a good coat or two of a good quality wax.

6) ON NO ACCOUNT If you drop your clay bar you MUST throw it away..otherwise it will pick up grit, which you will work into your paint..

Your car paint will come up like Glass....Have fun

Let me know how you get on....... Pete

[Perfectlap]

Originally Posted by CoBeerToad

So if I decide that I want to claybar my '97, what steps should I take first? I would imagine there are many years of wax and grime and stuff on my car (still looks good though). Would I benefit from trying to remove all that gunk first and how would I do that without stripping the paint off?

that's what the claybar does. It strips everthing down to the clear coat. Some will wash the car with dishwashing soap to clear sediments first, althouh any car wash soap brand will work for this first stage wash. Then soap up the car again with the dish wash detergent and clay bar the sudsy surface. The dish was detergent will strip all the wax off. Then wash the car again to clear the wax that might remain on the surface. At this stage you should use a paint polish wax to clean the paint of the really stuck on contaminants. I recommend Werkstat Prime Strong. It's a "two in one" polish and sealant. After that's cured for a day you can top with whatever carnauba or synthetic wax you prefer.

Given the age of your car you migh consider doing a paint decontamination as well. Over the years rust and other metal particles can hook into the paint swirls or channels. Regular washing migh not get at this.
This has a good explanation
Finish Kare Paint Decontamination System, auto paint cleaning system, de-contamination solution

p.s.
The Meguiars is good but if you are near an Advanced Auto, the Griot's Garage brand clay is a better value.
It has a bigger clay bar, comes in a convenient air-tight jar to store the left over clay so it doesn't harden and Griot's don't force you to buy their detail spray like Megair's does, its just the clay. Any dilution of car wash soap (just enough soap to be slippery) will work with any clay bar. If you use too much soap no big deal since you have to wash the car again anyway.

[scottvd]

Originally Posted by Porsche Chick

Okay, so far I've heard; wash it a lot, don't hardly wash it, use a brush, don't dare use a brush, dry it with a towel, dry it with a leaf blower, dry it by driving it, add oil to the water, don't add oil. Also, it can be washed by small children, half dressed twits, or ex-singers/breakfast purveyors with giant hats. Plus I have no idea what a clay bar is.

I think you guys need to come to some kind of consensus and get back to me.

LOL +1 ^^

10char