Changed the fuel filter.
Car was running fine, but it seemed like a good idea as I have no record of when it was last changed. Decided to open the old filter for a look as it had a date of 2006 on it !! I found an amazing amount of black muck in the old filter, I'll be curious to see if I notice any performance changes.
I noted that the new filter I installed has a 2017 date on it (bought last month) so I'm guessing the old one dated 2006 may not have been installed in 2006, but surely has been in the car for a number of years.
This is the condition of my Audi fuel filter, 12 years, never changed, 135000+ miles. Not bad. Porche is next. I don't know if fuel filter has been changed.
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5280 Cruising @High Altitude
Seal Gray & K&N Filter
So I committed what many may think is a Cardinal Sin.
I drilled a drain hole underneath the driver's seat. To prevent rust, I sealed around it with the same sealant I used when I installed a roof rack on my work van. I then installed a drain tube from a 911 headlight bucket. It makes it harder for water to splash in from underneath. I got the idea from another post and if I can find it I'll give the OP credit. It's part number 911.631.259.02
I had to use a 1/2" drill bit. I never like drilling holes anywhere on a car, and this was no exception, but I can now rest easy that if I get caught in a rainstorm, my Immobilizer is protected. Flooding is not a concern in my area, but even it if is, water would have other ways of getting in.
Yes, I could have gone with ECUDoctors waterproof case, but somehow I'm not convinced by it. Plus, $150 for a plastic box seems like price gouging to me.
I'm thinking of drilling another hole in the front floor pan, but I couldn't find a good low spot that didn't have anything in the way underneath. Still pondering that one, and I have time since the carpet isn't dry yet.
Here's the hole with the sealant:
Here's the hole with the drain tube:
Here's a pic from underneath:
And here's what the drain tube looks like:
P.S.
I found the post that suggested the drain tubes. Thank you to old911doc:
Quote:
Originally Posted by old911doc
When I drilled my Boxsters I recalled there is an ideal part to fit in the hole, an original Porsche part 911.631.259.02, available from our friendly Pelicans for $3.00 each. This part is a small rubber tube used in 1960's-70's 911's, fitted into each turn signal unit to permit water to drain out without water easily splashing in. I would suggest purchasing four of them, and measuring the groove in the rubber to see what size hole to drill in the floor pan. I suggest one hole in the lowest point, which is under the seat, and one hole near the back of the floor pan.
The white lab coat, furrowed brow guys, may invoke an incantation from on high, for questioning their engineering prowess/decisions. They still can't understand why Americans need so many damn cup holders in a vehicle.
The white lab coat, furrowed brow guys, may invoke an incantation from on high, for questioning their engineering prowess/decisions. They still can't understand why Americans need so many damn cup holders in a vehicle.
OHH! HAHA! Good one!
How dare we question their superior wisdom to place quite possibly the most important and most vulnerable-to-moisture electronic part at literally the lowest point of a convertible (think bathtub)
So I committed what many may think is a Cardinal Sin.
I drilled a drain hole underneath the driver's seat. To prevent rust, I sealed around it with the same sealant I used when I installed a roof rack on my work van. I then installed a drain tube from a 911 headlight bucket. It makes it harder for water to splash in from underneath. I got the idea from another post and if I can find it I'll give the OP credit. It's part number 911.631.259.02
I had to use a 1/2" drill bit. I never like drilling holes anywhere on a car, and this was no exception, but I can now rest easy that if I get caught in a rainstorm, my Immobilizer is protected. Flooding is not a concern in my area, but even it if is, water would have other ways of getting in.
Yes, I could have gone with ECUDoctors waterproof case, but somehow I'm not convinced by it. Plus, $150 for a plastic box seems like price gouging to me.
I'm thinking of drilling another hole in the front floor pan, but I couldn't find a good low spot that didn't have anything in the way underneath. Still pondering that one, and I have time since the carpet isn't dry yet.
Here's the hole with the sealant:
Here's the hole with the drain tube:
Here's a pic from underneath:
And here's what the drain tube looks like:
P.S.
I found the post that suggested the drain tubes. Thank you to old911doc:
Nice! And, the tubes are great! I don't much drive in inclement weather, but had wondered why owners didn't just drill a hole. You did a great job.
Yeah... the $150 box. That's ****************ing crooked. If it isn't an overpriced ****************ing IMS bearing solution it's a ****************ing $150 plastic box.
Took FUNBOX to Palmer Motorsports park yesterday. Great weather.
Our PCA region, NER, is having a DE there this weekend and after the days runs we had parade runs, drinks and snacks, barbeque dinner and then a presentation by Lori Schutz, daughter of Peter Schutz, who was CEO of Porsche at some critical junctions.
I first took some pictures of the green run group for our regional magazine, the NOR'EASTER and then did the parade laps. Not because of the thrill, I get those at our vintage DEs, but because the track was set up clockwise. I have only run it anti clockwise and wanted to learn the track in that direction. Let the group blast ahead of me on the straights and then caught up with them on the twisty bits exploring the lines. To me it seems to be easier to drive in this direction. There are fewer blind corners.
Lori's speech was great and I learned several new things about Peter Schutz's era. The 911 time line I think everybody knows about, but I didn't realize that he also was the driving force behind Porsche getting serious about racing!
Drove home at disk with the top down. Terrific day.
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2004 Boxster S Silver - FUNTOY
2002 Boxster Base Guardsy Red - FUNBOX
1987 Caterham Super 7 1700 Supersprint
2009 Mercedes Benz CLK 350 convertible
1941 Dodge Luxury Liner Coupe
Nice! And, the tubes are great! I don't much drive in inclement weather, but had wondered why owners didn't just drill a hole. You did a great job.
Yeah... the $150 box. That's ****************ing crooked. If it isn't an overpriced ****************ing IMS bearing solution it's a ****************ing $150 plastic box.
Keep those drains clean, too.
Thanks, Starter! Yeah, Definitely keep the drains clean. Oddly enough, I checked the drains when I got the car and they were clean and the tray is intact. IDK if the previous owner cleaned them AFTER water got in or if the water found another way in, maybe from the top.
I washed my car. Then I went, 'duh.' And noticed for the first time that my license plate starts with 8DX, which if you squint hard looks a lot like BOX. Really! Try it! How cool is that?
Made grill covers from mesh gutter guards. Had to take off the entire front of the car to install but found tons of bugs at least a pack of cigerette butts and other road trash in side. Also installed new side marker lights. I didn't like the orange US required ones.
Had my son clean all the parts as I took it apart!!!
Can't get my pictures to upload here but they are in my Garage photos...
Removing the warning graphic from the visors:
On my '02 S I was able to essentially scrape the artwork off with my fingernail to start. It came off in small scrapes, but easily. It left residue all over which I cleaned off with a soft cloth with a small soaking of brake fluid. Followed it all up with a soapy water rinse and then Back-To-Black.
I finally put my interior back together after dyeing the console and a bunch of other black plastic stuff that had that worthless coating.
Also changed the air filter and cabin air filter. Which leads me to question #1: Does anyone know where this oil residue on the intake tube came from?
My first thought was that it came from the PS pump reservoir, but the cap looks dry.
Then I tried changing the drive belt, but the replacement was slightly too short. I had the tensioner bottomed out and I made sure the belt routing was correct and it sat correctly on the pullies. The last pulley I would have put it on was the idler pulley next to the tensioner. I could probably force the belt, but I was afraid since the tensioner was bottomed out, there's no telling how much tension would be on the belt (the spring tensioner is supposed to put a certain about of tension, but the spring won't do any good if it's totally bottomed out). That made me concerned about having too much tension on the water pump. Which, BTW, I will replace VERY soon because when I had the belt off, I noticed a tiny amount of play.
Question #2: Has anyone ever had this issue with a Gates K060832 belt?
EDIT: So I found my own answer to this. the Gates 832 belt is 2113.28 cm long. The belt should be 2115cm. So I wasn't crazy, the Gates belt IS just a little too short. Not recommended, even though ******************************** said it fits.
Question #3: Which brand T-stat is recommended? I know Pierberg is the recommended pump, but I haven't found what's recommended for the T-stat, except going with a 160.
And last question: While I'm replacing the WP and T-stat, is there anything else I should do while I'm in there?