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Old 08-16-2011, 10:54 AM   #1
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Ok, left and right in a car is always from the driver’s position (e.g.: left is his left). Bank one is the passenger’s side, cylinders 1-3.

I really do not think a bad sensor is making the noise, more likely it is a worn tensioner or chain paddle.
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:36 AM   #2
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That has been the strange thing, the noise started a while back, and she ran ok with the exeption of slightly lugging out of first if I didn't heavy foot the peddle. Then as I was pulling out my drive, it started running really rough and threw the Flashing CEL.
Would this be symtomatic of a bad sensor? or tensioner/ paddle?

As you know we read with the ELM unit and got bank 2 cyl misfires. So I have changd out the tensioner on the driver side (I new which side was Bank 2, just didn't know left from right heh). The car actually runs slightly better than before and the CEL stil flashes and now I know it is probably the sensor throwing the CEL.

I will laugh maniacally if the tensioner on bank 1 is the one going bad, and it was the sensor throwing codes for bank 2.

Would a worn tensioner paddle throw a code?

I have a new sensor coming in this afternoon.
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Old 08-16-2011, 12:20 PM   #3
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Worn paddles make noise and can give cam deviation values outside the limits (+/- 6 degrees), but I have never seen one cause a code per se.
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Old 08-27-2011, 10:18 PM   #4
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Still having same issue with DuraMetric... Help Anyone...

So now to recap, had issues using durametric to get a reading off the camshaft position 2 deviation under available actual values (NOT THERE! NOTHING) Cam Deviation 1 shows up.

I purchased a new sensor and changed out bank 2 cam position sensor (THE ONE BEHIND DRIVERS SEAT, RIGHT?). There is still no reading for bank 2 dev. I have checked the connection and wiring looks good. I have not tested sensor, but it is brand new. What else woulkd cause the sensor for bank 2 deviation to not show up in durametric?
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Old 08-28-2011, 07:53 AM   #5
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As the Durametric is reading it from the DME, the ECU must not be getting the signal. You may need to check the entire circuit from the sensor to the DME plug for continuity. For that, you will need a digital multimeter and a wiring diagram specific to your model and year in order to find the correct pins on the DME plug. If the wiring checks out, your next suspect is the DME itself.
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Old 08-28-2011, 09:12 AM   #6
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Ok, I noticed a strange phenominon. When I start the bank 2 camshaft under actuations, the car sputtered and died. I tried the same with Cam 1 start, and nothing happened. What is that about? are the actuators are working at least? Am I right in this? Why would 1 not do anything. Is this normal? Is the car sputter and dying normal if you start cam shaft actuators. Is it bad to start those actuators while the car is running?
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Old 08-28-2011, 11:01 AM   #7
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When you activate the VarioCam units, you should hear a click, after which the idle may change a bit; but it should not die, and you should see the cam values move on the Durametric display.
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