First Brake Pad Replacement - Need Some Advice

[Overdrive]

Hey, dja1980, I can answer at least some of your questions, but others on here who have had more quality time with their cars will hopefully chime in and help you out.

Regarding resurfacing rotors, the short answer as I understand it is "no", not even for base models. The rotors on a base model are supposed to be replaced every 3 sets of pads you go through. I'm unsure of whether you're the original owner or not, but if not, and you have any service records from prior to your ownership, hopefully you'll see if any brake work was done and when. I would imagine the rotors on an S would either likely follow a similar or possibly even shorter life cycle being cross-drilled. Again, hopefully someone else on here with more knowledge can clarify that.

As for ordering parts, I'd check out PelicanParts.com, as they've usually got a good deal on most parts compared to OEM costs, and can provide you with the OEM supplier's price for many OEM parts directly from the supplier without "Genuine PORSCHE" splattered all over it and the extra $$$ those words bring with them.

[Mark_T]

Some people say you should replace the caliper bolts if you remove the calipers, the thought being that they will not re-torque correctly a second time. You'll have to make up your own mind on that one.

I'd go with Pelican Parts myself. You can give them a call and they'll walk you through what you need, great tech support.

[thstone]

Do most go with OEM pads, or are Textar, Akebono, Mintex, etc… that I’ve seen mentioned a better option?
For normal street driving, the OEM pads are great - excellent stopping, no squeal, and good life.

Do the rotors typically need to be replaced (65,000 miles)? Mine are cross-drilled… is resurfacing an option?
Resurface the rotors if they are not worn past min spec, but with 65,000 miles you may want to replace them anyway. I always replace the rotors when I replace the pads but I'm conservative (and don't mind the extra cost) when it comes to brakes.

What all needs to be purchased to do this job correctly… pads, rotors, pad sensors, retainer kits, brake cleaner, anti-squeal glue, brake grease?
You'll need new pads, maybe rotors, re-use your sensors if they are ok, re-use the springs/pins, brake cleaner is good for the springs and pins and for cleaning the surface of new rotors, and get some anti-seize brake grease for the pins. You'll have to make your own decision regarding new caliper bolts and whether to use anti-squeal on the pads. Get a torque wrench. Don't forget to have a big clamp to push the brake piston back into the caliper. You'll also need something (coat hangar, bungee cord, or similar) to hold the brake caliper out of the way once its removed (only needed if you are replacing the rotors).

And don't forget a beer. Beer and brakes were made for each other.

[WhipE350]

I replaced the front rotors on mine at 52k, pads in front had never been changed by previous owner. Rear rotors are barely worn, left them alone and put on a TMD manufacturer (Mintex) on both front and back, they are inexpensive but very effective for daily driving. I have since removed them from the front because of dust and put on Akebono, now no dust. I still plan on removing the Mintex from the back too but haven't got around to it. The front were used for 300miles...I can ship then to you for shipping cost. Have the pads ever been replaced before? On my car (2000 S) the originals had dampers that require you pull the caliper off the rotor, if they have been changed before you can likely just replace the pads without pulling the caliper off. The brakes on these cars are very easy to work on, keep the old hardware and replace any sensors that have warn out. I bought an extra sensor but never needed it.

[DFW02S]

As to turning the rotors, they can take off a few thousandth's at a pass, so if they're still within spec when done .... why not?
If you have a guy who will take his time, it's worth turning. If he wants to do it fast in one pass, forget it.

[darkstormvx]

Maybe I goofed. I chose Textar. Suncoast. I replaced my pads a while ago and I get a squeal at stops half the time. Ill figure that out when it annoys me again

My OEM previous were Textar tho and they lasted a LONG time for daily driving. Around 80000 miles and the backs were still good.

Stay OEM. I remember back in the day when road and track tested the boxster it had the shortest stop distance in the world......Stock.

[WhipE350]

Textar will work great, they too are made by TMD. Go to AdvanceAutoParts, get a can or a bunch of those little packets of brake grease and lay it on good, it should stop the squealing.
You know what I did with mine, took the original dampers, peeled them off the old brakes then used this red (can't remember the name, I can get it for you) brake grease in a bottle I got from AdvanceAutoParts as a stick-um to hold the dampers to the new pads. I then greased the dampers where they touch the caliper pistons real good...never a squeal again. The red grease really isn't a grease and it doesn't work to stop squeaks if used as normal pad grease. I complained to them and told them the stuff sucked and how could they sell it as there best stuff...it is more like a red silicone...thus it worked great as a glue for the dampers. I know all kind of weird but it worked out great in the end (brakes really work great).

[dja1980]

Wow... some great information here... this forum is the best!

I'm not the original owner... bought the car with 25,000 miles in 2006. I racked up most of the miles cruising back and forth on the interstate when I was using it as a daily driver, but then got smart and bought a hybrid when gas got over $4/gal (the first time). The car didn't come with any service records, but I've got to believe the pads and rotors are original... all I know is that the front pads produce A LOT of dust!

I'm going to take a closer look at my rotors tonight to determine if the lip indicates replacement. If so, it looks like Pelican offers, OEM, Sebro, Balo, & Balo Coated. I'm guessing Sebro is what most of you use?

Also, do the vibration dampers come with the stock brakes... and if so are they reusable?

Overdrive... I like the idea of replacing the rotors every 3 sets of pads since this will save me a lot of money, but I believe I have more than a 1mm outer lip on my current rotors.

Pedro... I've used your site in the past... it's a great resource! Do new rotors come with the surface thicker than the lip? I'm almost positive a lip has formed on my rotors.

WhipE350... thanks for the offer. If I'm going to do the job, I'd REALLY like to spend the additional money to get away from dust. I'm sure someone else will take you up on free pads though!