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First Brake Pad Replacement - Need Some Advice
My brake-wear indicator came on for the first time last week. Even though it only came on once (didn’t relight the next time I drove the car), I would assume that I’m getting pretty close to being due for my first brake pad replacement. I’ve done brakes on my Hondas before, but this will be a first on my 02 Boxster S. Therefore, I have some questions before I take on the project…
Do most go with OEM pads, or are Textar, Akebono, Mintex, etc… that I’ve seen mentioned a better option? Do the rotors typically need to be replaced (65,000 miles)? Mine are cross-drilled… is resurfacing an option? What all needs to be purchased to do this job correctly… pads, rotors, pad sensors, retainer kits, brake cleaner, anti-squeal glue, brake grease? I was going to order from Suncoast, but obviously not if I buy outside of OEM. Where is the best place to order from? Thanks in advance... Dave |
Hey, dja1980, I can answer at least some of your questions, but others on here who have had more quality time with their cars will hopefully chime in and help you out.
Regarding resurfacing rotors, the short answer as I understand it is "no", not even for base models. The rotors on a base model are supposed to be replaced every 3 sets of pads you go through. I'm unsure of whether you're the original owner or not, but if not, and you have any service records from prior to your ownership, hopefully you'll see if any brake work was done and when. I would imagine the rotors on an S would either likely follow a similar or possibly even shorter life cycle being cross-drilled. Again, hopefully someone else on here with more knowledge can clarify that. As for ordering parts, I'd check out PelicanParts.com, as they've usually got a good deal on most parts compared to OEM costs, and can provide you with the OEM supplier's price for many OEM parts directly from the supplier without "Genuine PORSCHE" splattered all over it and the extra $$$ those words bring with them. |
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The rotors need to be replaced when the outer lip is 1 mm or more (that means 2 mm of wear or more) They should not be resurfaced because they will lose more cooling mass. If your brake light is off right now you most likely will be able to reuse the sensors. All you need are the pads and or rotors. Everything else can be reused. As stated on other posts, you have a high performance car. Buy high performance brake parts for it. OEM are the best all around. Check these DIY instructions: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Replace_Brake_Pads_%26_Rotors.html Happy Boxstering, Pedro |
Some people say you should replace the caliper bolts if you remove the calipers, the thought being that they will not re-torque correctly a second time. You'll have to make up your own mind on that one.
I'd go with Pelican Parts myself. You can give them a call and they'll walk you through what you need, great tech support. |
Do most go with OEM pads, or are Textar, Akebono, Mintex, etc… that I’ve seen mentioned a better option?
For normal street driving, the OEM pads are great - excellent stopping, no squeal, and good life. Do the rotors typically need to be replaced (65,000 miles)? Mine are cross-drilled… is resurfacing an option? Resurface the rotors if they are not worn past min spec, but with 65,000 miles you may want to replace them anyway. I always replace the rotors when I replace the pads but I'm conservative (and don't mind the extra cost) when it comes to brakes. What all needs to be purchased to do this job correctly… pads, rotors, pad sensors, retainer kits, brake cleaner, anti-squeal glue, brake grease? You'll need new pads, maybe rotors, re-use your sensors if they are ok, re-use the springs/pins, brake cleaner is good for the springs and pins and for cleaning the surface of new rotors, and get some anti-seize brake grease for the pins. You'll have to make your own decision regarding new caliper bolts and whether to use anti-squeal on the pads. Get a torque wrench. Don't forget to have a big clamp to push the brake piston back into the caliper. You'll also need something (coat hangar, bungee cord, or similar) to hold the brake caliper out of the way once its removed (only needed if you are replacing the rotors). And don't forget a beer. Beer and brakes were made for each other. :cheers: |
I replaced the front rotors on mine at 52k, pads in front had never been changed by previous owner. Rear rotors are barely worn, left them alone and put on a TMD manufacturer (Mintex) on both front and back, they are inexpensive but very effective for daily driving. I have since removed them from the front because of dust and put on Akebono, now no dust. I still plan on removing the Mintex from the back too but haven't got around to it. The front were used for 300miles...I can ship then to you for shipping cost. Have the pads ever been replaced before? On my car (2000 S) the originals had dampers that require you pull the caliper off the rotor, if they have been changed before you can likely just replace the pads without pulling the caliper off. The brakes on these cars are very easy to work on, keep the old hardware and replace any sensors that have warn out. I bought an extra sensor but never needed it.
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As to turning the rotors, they can take off a few thousandth's at a pass, so if they're still within spec when done .... why not?
If you have a guy who will take his time, it's worth turning. If he wants to do it fast in one pass, forget it. |
Maybe I goofed. I chose Textar. Suncoast. I replaced my pads a while ago and I get a squeal at stops half the time. Ill figure that out when it annoys me again :(
My OEM previous were Textar tho and they lasted a LONG time for daily driving. Around 80000 miles and the backs were still good. :eek: Stay OEM. I remember back in the day when road and track tested the boxster it had the shortest stop distance in the world......Stock. |
Textar will work great, they too are made by TMD. Go to AdvanceAutoParts, get a can or a bunch of those little packets of brake grease and lay it on good, it should stop the squealing.
You know what I did with mine, took the original dampers, peeled them off the old brakes then used this red (can't remember the name, I can get it for you) brake grease in a bottle I got from AdvanceAutoParts as a stick-um to hold the dampers to the new pads. I then greased the dampers where they touch the caliper pistons real good...never a squeal again. The red grease really isn't a grease and it doesn't work to stop squeaks if used as normal pad grease. I complained to them and told them the stuff sucked and how could they sell it as there best stuff...it is more like a red silicone...thus it worked great as a glue for the dampers. I know all kind of weird but it worked out great in the end (brakes really work great). |
Wow... some great information here... this forum is the best!
I'm not the original owner... bought the car with 25,000 miles in 2006. I racked up most of the miles cruising back and forth on the interstate when I was using it as a daily driver, but then got smart and bought a hybrid when gas got over $4/gal (the first time). The car didn't come with any service records, but I've got to believe the pads and rotors are original... all I know is that the front pads produce A LOT of dust! I'm going to take a closer look at my rotors tonight to determine if the lip indicates replacement. If so, it looks like Pelican offers, OEM, Sebro, Balo, & Balo Coated. I'm guessing Sebro is what most of you use? Also, do the vibration dampers come with the stock brakes... and if so are they reusable? Overdrive... I like the idea of replacing the rotors every 3 sets of pads since this will save me a lot of money, but I believe I have more than a 1mm outer lip on my current rotors. Pedro... I've used your site in the past... it's a great resource! Do new rotors come with the surface thicker than the lip? I'm almost positive a lip has formed on my rotors. WhipE350... thanks for the offer. If I'm going to do the job, I'd REALLY like to spend the additional money to get away from dust. I'm sure someone else will take you up on free pads though! |
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Like Padro says, probably can resuse sensors. Pull them off and look before you order, it's pretty clear how they function, you'll be able to tell. I will say when I got my Porsche last Nov this is where I got my feet wet, I've done so many more things to the car and am totally confident about my fall project where I will replace clutch, IMS, and RMS. If you are mechanically inclined at all you'll catch on real fast. Good luck. |
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Get the caliper bolts!! I wished I had done it before this last brake change. If you intend to keep the care for very many miles, it might just save you a headache. JMO
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I did mine and bought Balo Rotors and Mintex Pads from Pelican Parts. The Balo rotors are German made and at one time a OEM parts supplier. Now it stops a lot better than before. :cheers: :cheers:
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Are there any brands of rotor and pads to avoid? I even called Autozone and they said they had them in stock.
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I ended up going with the Textar / Balo Coated combo, and replaced the caliper bolts based on recommendations here... LOVE THEM! I also painted the calipers while I was at it...
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U...-07-59_324.jpg |
^nice job. is that G2 kit?
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Thanks... stock calipers from my S. I experimented with several different reds from Dupli-Color, but wasn't happy. I finally tried the VHT Real Red (SP731) and loved it. I suppose I should update my other threads with a pic...
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/35226-pad-replacement-caliper-painting-questions.html http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/35410-red-caliper-paint-%96-closest-original.html |
I replaced my brakes from the DIY videos. It was the easiest brake job I've ever done, and I've done probably over 100 in my lifetime. I spent $280 at Autozone (Duralast). I'm just a regular city driver and don't think I need to spend more to get the "OEM" stuff. I've put many sets of the Autozone **************** and never had a problem. Cheers! :dance:
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the $280 included BOTH pads and rotors.
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