Changing the coolant breather valve

[schoir]

Originally Posted by sasha055

I have same problem, I replaced the o-rings and I still have condensation going.
Same symptoms as you, condensation and white powder on the bleeder valve bolts.

Does anyone know part nr for the whole valve assembly? maybe changing it will solve the problem.

Sasha

Sasha:

The part number for the complete assembly is 996.106.347.02. It supersedes two earlier part numbers and lists for about $33.

Aside from the O-rings, the rubber gasket/diaphragm sometimes gets torn or distorted. If replacing the O-rings did not solve the problem, check the diaphragm or just replace the entire assembly.

Here is a photo showing a distorted gasket/diaphragm. You can see old coolant residue in a number of places on the underside of the hard plastic piece that is showing, and you can see residue around one of the holes through which one of those fragile bolts passes.

Regards, Maurice.

[shlim8]

schoir, ah.... a bleeder valve like the one in your picture would certainly explain my situation... I think I'll refrain from opening up the valve until I get my replacement valve.... Opening up the valve now might make the leak worse and I still need to use the car

[shlim8]

After a run up a mountain road, I popped the rear boot open and guess what ? I found steam escaping from underneath the flat plastic plate that goes above the breather valve.... guess it should be from the breather valve. Definitely not from the coolant cap.

I'm now waiting for my new breather valve. Hopefully that cures the coolant loss.

[schoir]

Originally Posted by shlim8

After a run up a mountain road, I popped the rear boot open and guess what ? I found steam escaping from underneath the flat plastic plate that goes above the breather valve.... guess it should be from the breather valve. Definitely not from the coolant cap.

I'm now waiting for my new breather valve. Hopefully that cures the coolant loss.

Shlim:

When you get your new breather valve and go to install it, remember the caution about the fragile bolts. DO NOT over-torque them!

Regards, Maurice.

[shlim8]

Originally Posted by schoir

Shlim:

When you get your new breather valve and go to install it, remember the caution about the fragile bolts. DO NOT over-torque them!

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks for the advice. After I saw pictures of the broken bolts, I understand why ! I didn't even try to tighten the bolts on my current breather valve any more than a millimetre...

I had thought of changing the entire coolant expansion tank, it's still good but has yellowed to the point that I can't see the coolant level. But after reading the instructions on the replacement of the tank, I decided not to...

[Dale_K]

Please post the results of your bleeder valve replacement. My 2000 S also has some condensation in the same area. I have a new cap on order but suspect the bleeder valve may be at fault. I'm afraid to touch it for fear the tank will crack/break when I attempt to loosen the perimeter bolts. I'm interested to see how your repair turns out.

[schoir]

Originally Posted by shlim8

Thanks for the advice. After I saw pictures of the broken bolts, I understand why ! I didn't even try to tighten the bolts on my current breather valve any more than a millimetre...

I had thought of changing the entire coolant expansion tank, it's still good but has yellowed to the point that I can't see the coolant level. But after reading the instructions on the replacement of the tank, I decided not to...

A wise idea not to replace the coolant tank unless it's leaking.

To get a better view of the coolant level through a somewhat opaque, yellowed tank, you can take the coolant cap off and put a flashlight vertically on the opening. That usually "clears things up".

Regards, Maurice.

[sasha055]

Maurice, where did you see the valve for 33$?
Pelican parts has it for 80$

Do you know of a secret place thet sells these parts cheap?

Thanks
Sasha