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Old 10-11-2009, 06:43 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by der Geist
Personally, I think you gotta be crazy to get under a car that is on a slope. Level with wheels blocked is the only safe way to go. I would suggest Lil' Bastards method or a jack and good stands. I use ramps and jackstands myself. I can't see risking my life to save 15 minutes on an oil change.

Just my opinion.
Yeah, but just think about it for a sec. I back the car onto ramps while the front end is uphill from the rear end. BUT, once I'm on the ramps, the car is level. Soooo, even unchocked, it's really not inclined to go anywhere. Then, I go ahead and double chock it anyway.

Believe me, I've never "risked my life to save 15 minutes on an oil change".

The way I've described is as safe as any I've read about, other than (arguably) using a lift.


Last edited by Frodo; 10-11-2009 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 10-12-2009, 04:48 AM   #22
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While the back might be level with the front, the front still wants to roll down hill. Chocks are definatley a must for safety.
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Old 10-12-2009, 05:48 AM   #23
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Yes, as a tip of the hat to the gods of safety (and out of good habit), I do still chock her. But, after getting in a hurry one day and almost
backing too far on the ramps (ie, off the high end), I decided to make an alteration to my ramps:



With this arrangement, it would be a bit of challenge to intentionally drive off the end of the ramp. Even with the front wheels still on a slope, the car is
level and is definitely not rolling anywhere. The chocks placed on the front are just additional frosting on the cake.
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:56 AM   #24
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You're kiddin right? Not only is gravity gonna want to make the front tires roll but it will also act on he ramp to try and push it back as the tires want to roll. I have seen the seals on jacks blow while the car is up, jack stands slip and cars roll because a chock slipped. I have seen many of the new plastic chocks slip especially when cold. I hope you are extra, extra careful if you are gonna keep doing it this way.

The way you are describing is NOT as safe as the other ways.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frodo
Yeah, but just think about it for a sec. I back the car onto ramps while the front end is uphill from the rear end. BUT, once I'm on the ramps, the car is level. Soooo, even unchocked, it's really not inclined to go anywhere. Then, I go ahead and double chock it anyway.

Believe me, I've never "risked my life to save 15 minutes on an oil change".

The way I've described is as safe as any I've read about, other than (arguably) using a lift.
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Old 10-12-2009, 09:53 AM   #25
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Nope, Iím not kidding---are you?? 1) The chocks I use are also of 4x4 material (cut at 45 degree diagonals, to fit nicely under the front and back of one of the front tires) and have sawn faces (read: rough); they DONíT slip, AT ALL (I highly doubt theyíd slip even if wet); 2) while the front tires are still on the upward slope, the ramps are on level driveway; they DONíT slip, AT ALL either; 3) as stated earlier: so the oil drains properly, once backed onto the ramps, the car is level: even unchocked, it has NO tendency to roll in EITHER direction. Add to that the chunks of 4x4 at the high ends of the ramps (against which the rear aspect of the rear tires rest), plus the two heavy wooden chocks. Toss in the fact (not previously mentioned) that the hand brake is on and the carís in either 1st or reverse, and I guarantee you that car ainít going anywhere.

(AND, I have no worries about a jack seal blowing. )

Set up as described, I DEFY you to push this car off the ramp. I feel as safe changing my oil with this set up as I do sitting in front of my TV in my bathrobe watchin' Monday Night Football.
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Old 05-12-2015, 05:52 PM   #26
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I bought a set of Race Ramps RR 40's. They work great and don't slide or slip while you are going up. Made changing the oil super easy and they weigh in at 8.5 LBS.
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:10 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil bastard View Post
For my oil changes, I jack the car up one one side in the rear, place a jackstand under a the alternate hard point, scoot under the car, loosen the drain plug w/ pan in position, and then lower the car back down to level.

After 30 min., I raise the car, replace the drain plug, do the filter swap and lower the car a final time before filling w/ new oil. 45min max. (incl. 30 min drain time).
Same here. Very easy.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:53 PM   #28
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Lift Bars

I use Lift Bars...

Liftbars for Boxsters
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Old 05-13-2015, 05:42 AM   #29
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I use a set of the rhino ramps from pep boys. They had a 30% off sale for orderign online and pikcing up in the store. They also come with wheel chocks.
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Old 05-13-2015, 07:54 AM   #30
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Wow I like the Liftbars I wish I had known about them before doing my IMS bearing.

I opt to build a set of my own drive up ramps for doing my IMS bearing and future maintenance. The ramps allow me to bring the front and rear up. The front ramps are just high enough to slide under the car and when I back up all four wheel ride up on the ramps.


Home made Ramps

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Old 05-13-2015, 12:51 PM   #31
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When changing the oil or just working under the car, I drive up on rhino ramps for the front wheels, then jack up the back till the car is level and use stands
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Old 05-13-2015, 12:57 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottStu View Post
I bought a set of Race Ramps RR 40's. They work great and don't slide or slip while you are going up. Made changing the oil super easy and they weigh in at 8.5 LBS.
Second the race ramp suggestion. Had mine for 4 years now, hold up great. I have the two piece ones and they pack up easily in a corner.

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