Thinking of buying a Boxster ? - MUST READ !

[BruceH]

Originally Posted by Boxster_S_girl

I've gotten quotes on PPIs from two well known, recommend Porsche indies. One was $365, the other was $370 for the "basic" PPI and $560 for a more comprehensive check that includes a leak down compression check...

I'm I getting ripped off coming and going???

That is about right. My comment was "$300 at the very least". Better to pay hundreds now rather than thousands later.

[Dr. Acula]

Advice for anyone buying a 986 Boxster....



You can find these here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07396JKRM

[paperboy221]

Was wondering what kinds of opinions you all had on this boxster. I've been looking through this website for hours in trying to make a decision, everything about this car seems reasonable for the price. Thanks!

2002 Porsche Boxster 77K Miles Only - Super Clean!! | eBay

[bmsamson]

Questions arise whenever I look at a possible purchase. Current prospect, 99 base, 130k miles, comprehensive service records since new; clutch/IMS/water pump/shocks all done at or since 100k; good tires, brakes, top upgraded to glass, grin-inducing test drive. Price is somewhat above KBB, but I can live with that. The issue? CEL

P0140, P1117, P1121, P0410, P1411

of course, with the holiday I can't get it to a mechanic so I'm looking for some feedback from folks on here. First, should this be a deal-breaker? I've been reading (yes, search is my friend) and it seems this can be one of many things, but most folks who've had it done in a shop get it cleared for good for less than $1k. If anyone has been through this and has real world numbers to share, I'd be grateful. If those figures are as I suspect, then I think I'm ok moving forward, but happy for any and all insight on that score as well.

Oh, and PO has just one key and the electronics on it don't work. It locks the car and starts it, obviously, but no button function. IIRC this is like $500 to replace at the dealer?!

Thanks all. One day I'll complete a purchase and can perhaps contribute not just take from this board.

[RobertKing]

Originally Posted by bmsamson

Questions arise whenever I look at a possible purchase. Current prospect, 99 base, 130k miles, comprehensive service records since new; clutch/IMS/water pump/shocks all done at or since 100k; good tires, brakes, top upgraded to glass, grin-inducing test drive. Price is somewhat above KBB, but I can live with that. The issue? CEL

P0140, P1117, P1121, P0410, P1411

of course, with the holiday I can't get it to a mechanic so I'm looking for some feedback from folks on here. First, should this be a deal-breaker? I've been reading (yes, search is my friend) and it seems this can be one of many things, but most folks who've had it done in a shop get it cleared for good for less than $1k. If anyone has been through this and has real world numbers to share, I'd be grateful. If those figures are as I suspect, then I think I'm ok moving forward, but happy for any and all insight on that score as well.

Oh, and PO has just one key and the electronics on it don't work. It locks the car and starts it, obviously, but no button function. IIRC this is like $500 to replace at the dealer?!

Thanks all. One day I'll complete a purchase and can perhaps contribute not just take from this board.

While the key fob could just need new switches, if reprogramming is required, it's a no from me.. $200 + for that is a warning. The cel codes, oh man, so many things can cause those codes. At best, MAFs and AOS. Worse case, warped heads. Could be as simple as a vacuum leak but, at that mileage, I'd expect better. PASS.

[bmsamson]

Originally Posted by RobertKing

While the key fob could just need new switches, if reprogramming is required, it's a no from me.. $200 + for that is a warning. The cel codes, oh man, so many things can cause those codes. At best, MAFs and AOS. Worse case, warped heads. Could be as simple as a vacuum leak but, at that mileage, I'd expect better. PASS.

Thanks Robert. It was indeed a pass. Picked up an 03 base after walking on that one, and driving it happily since.

[512TXS]

Boxsters are fun and pretty easy to work on. I’m assuming most on this site are DIY folks (no problem if you’re not) so don’t be scared to get your hands dirty. Like my father always says “Just google it son. YouTube already tells you how to do it”. He’s kind of right...

Dealer oil change: $289.99 “special deal for service b”
DIY: $60 ish. 10 qt full syn Mobile 1 @Walmart and K&N filter or Mann from Amazon.

Drive belt replacement @ dealer: $699
DIY: $20.64 from Amazon and took me 50 minutes and beer the first time and 30 minutes no beer the second time on my fathers Boxster.

Front and rear brakes @dealer $1,199 WTH???
DIY: ebay $42 front and rear... 30-45 minutes

This can all be done with basic tools from Harbor Freight or local tool store. $100 @ Harbor Freight goes a long way!

[Porsche_David]

The problem is finding a good dealer that you can trust to buy a used Porsche. I prefer independent dealers like this one https://www.dupontautocentre.com/used-porsche/ and they had a 986 on their site but it sold
Has anyone imported one from the States> I am in Canada.

[mikefocke]

The reference in the OP's posting is outdated.
https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/mikesporscheboxsterwebpages

[morgan&coke]

Hi, new poster, thinking about buying a 1999 Boxster. It's at 156k miles on the car, IMS blew the motor at 41k, so 115k on the engine. Owner has full service records, priced at $6000. Seems like about the right price to me, but I figured I should check here to see if any of that raises a red flag for the more experienced Porsche owners here.
Thanks.

[mikefocke]

Any idea when the motor was installed or its source (Porsche remanufactured or just from a wreck)?
Any idea what shape the suspension is in? Parts should be wearing out at about that mileage but it all depends on what services were done to maintain the car.
In theory, reasonable price, at least check that everything works. If a local Porsche water cooled engine mechanic is available see if the seller will permit the mechanic to do a pre-purchase inspection. Or maybe talk to the shop that maintains the car. Any notes on things needed on the last bill?.

[morgan&coke]

I'm going to take a look at it tomorrow, those are all good suggestions, thanks. Motor was from Porsche. Guy I'd be buying from is the second owner.

[Steve Hurt]

I just sold 1974 914 3.2 Carrera 1987 engine conversion.It had almost all the changes made to I including hydraulic clutch. Since I am getting to the age where it is hard to get underneath it, I sold the 914 and purchased a 2002 Boxster S with 134,000 miles and owned by long time Porsche members. They let me review records over the entire history (2-3 owners before me) including showing the IMS being change at 84-85,000 miles. Thread review shows Jake Rabey said change the IMS every 75,000 miles since the one in the car was LN Engeering ceramic one. The infomation resulting in dropping the transmission, pulling the clutch, removing the flywheel, etc. I always plan on doing things such as this when evidence is there to support it. found items that were marginal such as how the old INS had been installed, flywheel showing signs of future problems, clutch and pressure plate including system had extended life left. Mechanic also read through the records to verify major fault items such as water pump, servicing, etc

I put in a direct oil feed system including the bearing since this the type of bearing I am use to coming from commercial and general aviation. I would like to see a bearing similar to the front immediate shaft. Maybe later, but now I have complete confidence of driving it extended distances. Oil will go to higher grade/ weight full synthetic 5W40 and a brand having a higher level of phosphorus, etc 1100-1200 parts per million. Oil changes every 3000 miles or every three months; warmup for 1-2 minutes, drive accordingly until the engine is at running temp and drive it hard and within operating characteristics but never thrashing the car or going over limits; I do not use the car for very short driving distances, just intermediate driving to long distance driving; all Porsche events but not racing/auto-X; remember I sold a 914 because I essentially cannot do the heavy type building/maintenance.

Where did I find all the above and fit it to my situation? It comes from all the threads on this board and its members. I know I have extended life in my car , I can work on it within my limits, have very good idea when to turn it over to a trusted indie, and proper servicing intervals, etc.

New to the Boxster but "OLD" Porsche-a-file. Lot's to learn and great driving experiences ahead!

[StephanRay]

My 1999 Boxster was recently diagnosed with the apparently very common intermediate shaft failure (IMS failure). The big surprise came when I heard the only way to fix this, is a complete engine replacement; $12000 for the part alone! Add the hours needed to put it in, and this is more then the cars current value.

The car has 62000 miles on it and had every scheduled service, done by Porsche certified shops.

When I approached Porsche to help me out, they had a good laugh and told me that the warranty expired 6 years ago. Even after I pointed to the "Implied Warranty of Merchantability and Fitness of Purpose" regulation in this country, and told them that nobody would buy a car knowing that it's engine will disintegrate after 62000 miles, they had nothing to say. I guess my fault for trying to keep the car in good shape and not driving it enough so that the failure would occur within the warranty period.

[johngmarco]

Just as an FYI - I just bought a 1999 Boxster Base with 130k miles. Excellent condition, all service records, strong motor, new tires. Paid the $150 pre-purchase inspection at my local indy shop. They said it was a great deal for $5,800.00. The IMS bearing had not gone out yet and probably wouldn't. I don't like to play Russian Roulette so I bought it and took it straight to the shop for, new clutch, IMS bearing, oil separator (while they had everything apart), passenger window actuator, CV joint clamps, battery, oil change and A/C service. Came to a little under $4,000.00 but now I have a dependable, kick-in-the-pants Porsche to rip around in for around $10,000.00. I'll probably need new shocks soon but you really can't put a price on fun.. in my book this is a lot of fun for the buck!

[Liamray]

Originally Posted by johngmarco

Just as an FYI - I just bought a 1999 Boxster Base with 130k miles. Excellent condition, all service records, strong motor, new tires. Paid the $150 pre-purchase inspection at my local indy shop. They said it was a great deal for $5,800.00. The IMS bearing had not gone out yet and probably wouldn't. I don't like to play Russian Roulette so I bought it and took it straight to the shop for, new clutch, IMS bearing, oil separator (while they had everything apart), passenger window actuator, CV joint clamps, battery, oil change and A/C service. Came to a little under $4,000.00 but now I have a dependable, kick-in-the-pants Porsche to rip around in for around $10,000.00. I'll probably need new shocks soon but you really can't put a price on fun.. in my book this is a lot of fun for the buck!

Nice looking boxster, your rear sppoiler needs adjusting on the right hand side, it looks to be sitting up a bit.

[TGPCAR]

HELP!! I have been searching for months for a Boxster to get before my 30th birthday. I found one with only a week left. Here is the dilemma: 2001 Red Boxster S, 80,000 miles, $7000. Just had the IMS, Flywheel, Clutch, RMS, new transmission mounts and new left side axle, and Oil change for $4,454 at a local (and reputable) indy shop. Parts $3045.55 and Labor $1078. Current owner also upgraded the audio with some decent, but basic stuff. My issue: REBUILT TITLE from a total loss accident in 2010.

Known issues: It needs new front tie-rods, alignment, driver-side window motor or regulator needs replacing, replacement washer reservoir, a major cleaning and detailing (cobwebs and leaves in the forward boot), convertible motor sounds like a dinosaur scream. It appears the front bumper cover is also sagging. And the rest is cosmetic.

Would you buy this for $6000-$7000? If not, what would you pay?
Is the afore mentioned repair cost a fair market repair cost?

[Fiddlebog]

Originally Posted by TGPCAR

HELP!! I have been searching for months for a Boxster to get before my 30th birthday. I found one with only a week left. Here is the dilemma: 2001 Red Boxster S, 80,000 miles, $7000. Just had the IMS, Flywheel, Clutch, RMS, new transmission mounts and new left side axle, and Oil change for $4,454 at a local (and reputable) indy shop. Parts $3045.55 and Labor $1078. Current owner also upgraded the audio with some decent, but basic stuff. My issue: REBUILT TITLE from a total loss accident in 2010.

Known issues: It needs new front tie-rods, alignment, driver-side window motor or regulator needs replacing, replacement washer reservoir, a major cleaning and detailing (cobwebs and leaves in the forward boot), convertible motor sounds like a dinosaur scream. It appears the front bumper cover is also sagging. And the rest is cosmetic.

Would you buy this for $6000-$7000? If not, what would you pay?
Is the afore mentioned repair cost a fair market repair cost?

I wouldn't say that you need to steer clear of it, but that does seem a bit high for a rebuilt title. None of the remaining repairs you need to do are very difficult/expensive, but it's still a burden to take on with a new car. The IMS is nice, but considering the amount of work that's been done, it would be kind of sad if it hadn't been.
I certainly wouldn't pay 7 for it, and even 6 seems high. I think 5ish would be just fine though, since it is an S.

[BruceH]

Originally Posted by TGPCAR

HELP!! I have been searching for months for a Boxster to get before my 30th birthday. I found one with only a week left. Here is the dilemma: 2001 Red Boxster S, 80,000 miles, $7000. Just had the IMS, Flywheel, Clutch, RMS, new transmission mounts and new left side axle, and Oil change for $4,454 at a local (and reputable) indy shop. Parts $3045.55 and Labor $1078. Current owner also upgraded the audio with some decent, but basic stuff. My issue: REBUILT TITLE from a total loss accident in 2010.

Known issues: It needs new front tie-rods, alignment, driver-side window motor or regulator needs replacing, replacement washer reservoir, a major cleaning and detailing (cobwebs and leaves in the forward boot), convertible motor sounds like a dinosaur scream. It appears the front bumper cover is also sagging. And the rest is cosmetic.

Would you buy this for $6000-$7000? If not, what would you pay?
Is the afore mentioned repair cost a fair market repair cost?

Originally Posted by Fiddlebog

I wouldn't say that you need to steer clear of it, but that does seem a bit high for a rebuilt title. None of the remaining repairs you need to do are very difficult/expensive, but it's still a burden to take on with a new car. The IMS is nice, but considering the amount of work that's been done, it would be kind of sad if it hadn't been.
I certainly wouldn't pay 7 for it, and even 6 seems high. I think 5ish would be just fine though, since it is an S.

Strange that the seller would put in so much money in the IMS etc but neglect the rest, including the basics of just cleaning it up. 5 to 6K is probably about right but I would have it looked over by another mechanic to make sure there aren’t any more “known” issues. Still, $6K for a car with the IMS done is not a bad deal as long as the rest is minor. A heckuv a car for that amount of money.

[maytag]

Originally Posted by TGPCAR

HELP!! I have been searching for months for a Boxster to get before my 30th birthday. I found one with only a week left. Here is the dilemma: 2001 Red Boxster S, 80,000 miles, $7000. Just had the IMS, Flywheel, Clutch, RMS, new transmission mounts and new left side axle, and Oil change for $4,454 at a local (and reputable) indy shop. Parts $3045.55 and Labor $1078. Current owner also upgraded the audio with some decent, but basic stuff. My issue: REBUILT TITLE from a total loss accident in 2010.

Known issues: It needs new front tie-rods, alignment, driver-side window motor or regulator needs replacing, replacement washer reservoir, a major cleaning and detailing (cobwebs and leaves in the forward boot), convertible motor sounds like a dinosaur scream. It appears the front bumper cover is also sagging. And the rest is cosmetic.

Would you buy this for $6000-$7000? If not, what would you pay?
Is the afore mentioned repair cost a fair market repair cost?

Honestly, in great condition with clear title, that car's worth $9000.
In great condition with rebuilt title, it's worth $5500.
Condition as described? $4000. But he'll never let it go for that. He'll wait until someone comes along that doesn't do as much homework as you have, and he'll settle for $5200.

The question in my mind is this: it sounds like you've set yourself a goal of sorts, with a timeline. What's that worth to ya? $1200? It would be to me.... All. Day. Long.
I'd pay him $5200, knowing I'm paying $1200 more than I should, because the goal meant something more than 'have I found the right car yet', Y'know?

Eyes wide open. You're not getting screwed if you make the decision knowing all the facts.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk