Quote:
Originally Posted by kbod
Ok I just did some live data testing....the thing wouldn't recreate the problem. The timing on both banks was consistently even as the idle fluctuated. My question is, what would be symbolic of a failed solenoid versus a failed actuator/tensioner assembly. Because from what i know a solenoid is a 200 dollar part which only requires the valve cover removal..... whilst a tensioner assembly is a MASSIVE undertaking involving camshaft and timing chain removal... ive narrowed it down to either a solenoid or actuator issue... I just need to see which one it is before I start spending and the car really has no pattern with this problem, sometimes it just does not do it. Sometimes it will do it at cold idle, sometimes it will do it after warming up, I might add the car was sitting for 3 years until this month, if that changes anything, although it runs amazing and revs like a champ.. Although I noticed sometimes the car takes extra long to start. sometimes it doesn't and starts right up super fast, one time it refused to start at all and I had to press the gas pedal while cranking for a bit to get it to roar to life.... I feel like that might be connected who knows...
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As Blue said, the solenoid is easy to test using 12V or even a 9V battery. You should hear an audible click. You can also measure the resistance with an Ohm meter to see if it`s shorted or broken. Replacing the solenoid is a big undertaking too, because you
need to remove the cover and you have not much room. It`s not such a big deal to pull the cams from that point.
If the solenoids are fine, you may still have faulty actuators. A relatively easy test is to use a small camera and inspect the switchover. You can also take a peek onto the small chain pad that wears relatively fast and can cause timing issues.
Boxster
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