Blue boxster resurrection project

[Qingdao]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

Yeah, that vise has been like that since I moved here from my previous place... Maybe once the Porsche engine is off the bench!

If I burned out the bushing I`d end up with a steel cyilinder in an aluminum bore that I still would have to press out.

Ah, Why didn't you get the mount thats already in the aluminium housing? I just replaced one on a customer's car.

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by Qingdao

Ah, Why didn't you get the mount thats already in the aluminium housing? I just replaced one on a customer's car.

Because it costs 5 times more than the insert only

[Homeoboxter]

There are plenty of threads here on how variocam operation can be tested with the durametric or similar diagnostic tool, but I wanted to make sure they work before putting the engine back in the car. So I used a simple borescope camera to capture the switchover of the variocam units while the engine was driven by the starter on my work bench. I inserted the camera through the hole for the green plug over the intake camshaft, on the scavanging pump side. I used 12V to switch the solenoids on. Here are some pictures, looks like they both work fine

Ths is just for guidance if it`s unclear what we are looking at:



Variocam at bank 1-3 at rest:



Variocam 1-3 actuates:



Variocam bank 4-6 at rest:



Variocam 4-6 actuates:



The video is available here, if interested:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmNduI2lRbA

[dghii]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

Yeah, that vise has been like that since I moved here from my previous place... Maybe once the Porsche engine is off the bench!

If I burned out the bushing I`d end up with a steel cyilinder in an aluminum bore that I still would have to press out.

For next time, mount insert removal is easy if you cut the rubber out and then use a hack saw on the remaining aluminum. saw a couple of cuts and the aluminum comes out in a couple of pieces. About 30 minutes total.

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by dghii

For next time, mount insert removal is easy if you cut the rubber out and then use a hack saw on the remaining aluminum. saw a couple of cuts and the aluminum comes out in a couple of pieces. About 30 minutes total.

Thanks for the tip, but the mount insert on this car was made of steel. So was the replacement. Steel insert in an aluminum housing. I can`t see how it`s possible to cut the insert out easily without damaging the aluminum bore. Scroll back, only the core part of the mount is aluminum, then rubber, then steel. And the steel shell is pressed into the aluminum housing. Maybe there are different versions?

[pilot4fn]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

Thanks for the tip, but the mount insert on this car was made of steel. So was the replacement. Steel insert in an aluminum housing. I can`t see how it`s possible to cut the insert out easily without damaging the aluminum bore. Scroll back, only the core part of the mount is aluminum, then rubber, then steel. And the steel shell is pressed into the aluminum housing. Maybe there are different versions?

I had same dilemma last year. Purchased the engine mount bushing only and attempted to change it to the aluminium housing... plenty of fight on this stage and I finally ended up ordering a new housing with new bushing installed. I stil have the ole housing and the separate bushing waiting for next round

[Zzorro]

Just read the entire thread. All posts and pictures. Well done and thanks for taking the time to post the journey!

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by Zzorro

Just read the entire thread. All posts and pictures. Well done and thanks for taking the time to post the journey!

Wow, that`s a lot of reading Thanks for stopping by!

[dghii]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

Thanks for the tip, but the mount insert on this car was made of steel. So was the replacement. Steel insert in an aluminum housing. I can`t see how it`s possible to cut the insert out easily without damaging the aluminum bore. Scroll back, only the core part of the mount is aluminum, then rubber, then steel. And the steel shell is pressed into the aluminum housing. Maybe there are different versions?

I’ve done this twice....one on my car and once for a friend. It wasn’t tough to do at all and I didn’t score the inside bore of the mount. Just used a hand tool hack saw. When the cut was almost through, I used a screwdriver and hammer to chisel out the weakens, cut area.

I would have given up if it was hard to do!

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by dghii

I’ve done this twice....one on my car and once for a friend. It wasn’t tough to do at all and I didn’t score the inside bore of the mount. Just used a hand tool hack saw. When the cut was almost through, I used a screwdriver and hammer to chisel out the weakens, cut area.

I would have given up if it was hard to do!

Thanks, I`ll give it a try next time! Not too soon though, hopefully this one will last for another good 100k miles!

[Homeoboxter]

I had some time over the weekend to prepare the engine bay for the power plant. Poor thing was quite abandoned in the past two years. I was gonna put the engine back on in a couple weeks, lol.



Back of the coolant tank. Someone else has been here before me, who replaced the spring clamp.



Oil filler tube. Doesn`t look right.



I pulled the coolant tank if I was there anyway. Probably it`s replaced somewhere in the past. No sign of cracks, I`ll just put it back.





Almost there

[PaulE]

Nice work you could put a 987 airbox in there before you put the engine back in!

[Zzorro]

I think the Porsche design for the coolant tank is terrible, especially considering that these fail. I had to change the tank (like many others) with the engine in the car and I can say without hesitation that I would rather redo my entire suspension that do the coolant tank again.

I think you might benefit by installing barbed quick connections at the bulkhead to allow for simple future tank replacement. Certainly you have the a ability to do so now pretty easily.

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by Zzorro

I think the Porsche design for the coolant tank is terrible, especially considering that these fail. I had to change the tank (like many others) with the engine in the car and I can say without hesitation that I would rather redo my entire suspension that do the coolant tank again.

I think you might benefit by installing barbed quick connections at the bulkhead to allow for simple future tank replacement. Certainly you have the a ability to do so now pretty easily.

I was thinking about doing that, but then I didn`t bother. It`s replaced already, so it should be ok for a while. Or maybe not... we`ll see! Too late now, the engine is back in the car..

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by PaulE

Nice work you could put a 987 airbox in there before you put the engine back in!

Hi, thanks, but it`s too late, the engine is back in the chassis :ah: Why is the 987 airbox better than the 986?

[PaulE]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

Hi, thanks, but it`s too late, the engine is back in the chassis :ah: Why is the 987 airbox better than the 986?

Better airflow, the 987 air filter is about twice the size of the 986 filter. Porsche started putting it in the 2004 986 550 S edition. You work fast!

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by PaulE

You work fast!

Also, I`m cheating, the posts do not always reflect reality in time In fact, these pictures were taken 3 weeks ago, i just had time to post them now. Here are a few more recent ones:

Levitating boxster engine:





Perfect time of the day to put an engine back

[Homeoboxter]

The annual meeting of Pittsburgh jacks:







A/C is back.



Switching gears is also possible now:





SHAFT

[Homeoboxter]

Getting this far in a day means lying down and getting up about 2 hundred times, equivalent with 200 push-ups.. good workout!

[pilot4fn]

Very nice built and great that you post us the updates to learn from! You'll be on the road in notime with this rate of rebuilt speed:dance: