01-16-2014, 09:43 AM
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#1
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Registered Boxster abuser
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: socal
Posts: 1,014
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Loctite 5900... Who really likes this stuff?
So who uses this stuff?
I think its just over priced cheap silicone, and will most likely never use it again. Something to be used in a clean room environment, and it does not seem to be a great sealant for the enthusiast or the gen shop.
It seems that the surfaces have to be impeccably clean of oil otherwise it won't stick well.
What else do you use?
My current sealer of choice is still Hondabond and Hondabond HT.
Last edited by healthservices; 01-16-2014 at 10:37 AM.
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01-16-2014, 10:25 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
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I use the Dri-Bond specified by Porsche. All sealing surfaces must be clean enough to eat off of. I think the same company makes Honda Bond.
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OE engine rebuilt,3.6 litre LN Engineering billet sleeves,triple row IMSB,LN rods. Deep sump oil pan with DT40 oil.
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01-16-2014, 12:11 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: weehawken nj
Posts: 240
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LOL... youre complaining about sealing surfaces needing to be impeccably clean of oil? That is a prerequisite for ANY gasket...or did you think that even your favorite honda silicone was going to stick to grease? And as for the clean room comment, thats what I use to seal Porsche engine blocks, and you better believe everything is spotless.
Thats actually really good silicone, I'm not sure why you dont like it. I usually clean the surfaces with a Mirlon scuff pad ( the red one is very fine and doesnt leave any scratches ) and then take rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner, soak a rag with it, and go along the sealing surface until its oil free.
And please dont lay that silicone on too thick, just a bead maybe 1.5mm thick is plenty. Remember that the excess ends up in the oil pump feed strainer....
As for regular stuff? I use Permatex's "the right stuff"
Last edited by Bigsmoothlee; 01-16-2014 at 12:14 PM.
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01-16-2014, 12:33 PM
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#4
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Registered Boxster abuser
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: socal
Posts: 1,014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigsmoothlee
LOL... youre complaining about sealing surfaces needing to be impeccably clean of oil? That is a prerequisite for ANY gasket...or did you think that even your favorite honda silicone was going to stick to grease?
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I know we have our OCD people here and can understand where they are coming from but...
Its quite a bit pickier. I can clean up the oil and gasket, spray clean with parts cleaner, and then clean with alcohol and still it does not stick anywhere near as well as hondabond can.
Please remember the company who sells the product for hondabond also sells a similar product for other car companies. I use Hondabond because it easy to get.
Hondabond just flows and sticks. I use the runny stuff for flanges, and just use a paint brush to put it on. The loctite stuff is like trying to put Vaseline on.
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01-16-2014, 12:50 PM
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#5
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Registered Boxster abuser
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: socal
Posts: 1,014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigsmoothlee
And please dont lay that silicone on too thick, just a bead maybe 1.5mm thick is plenty. Remember that the excess ends up in the oil pump feed strainer....
As for regular stuff? I use Permatex's "the right stuff"
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For flanges... 1.5mm is already too thick. Paint it on and thin as you can. As long as there is no break in the sealant bead you are good to go. In a perfect world sealant is not nec. but its not perfect so we have to have something to fill the voids.
I rarely use sealant on items with gaskets, but I do put a tiny bit in the corners.
Last edited by healthservices; 01-16-2014 at 12:52 PM.
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01-16-2014, 06:07 PM
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#6
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Beginner
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,659
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5900 rocks. Ive used loads of silicones and was quite the skeptic until I actually used 5900. Having said that I have not used Hondabond HT and will look into it. High priced? oh yeah, but it does not set up to a point where it will shear like other silicones I've used and does not grab with the grip of death that makes any relative joint movement a recipe for pealed silicone. I like it.
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2003 S manual
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01-16-2014, 06:46 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Miami florida
Posts: 1,591
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Depends on what you are using a gasket maker for. On the sump plate, I use permanent red, as little as absolutely possible. Works fine. Now, if I were resealing the cam covers, I would only use the P spec sealant.
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Current car
2000 Boxster 2.7l red/black
Previous cars
1973 Opel Manta
1969(?) Fiat 850 Convertible
1979 Lancia Beta Coupe
1981 Alfa Romeo GTV 6
1985 Alfa Romeo Graduate
1985 Porsche 944
1989 Porsche 944
1981 Triumph TR7
1989 (?) Alfa Romeo Milano
1993 Saab 9000
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01-16-2014, 10:53 PM
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#8
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Registered Boxster abuser
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: socal
Posts: 1,014
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The one thing I will say about hondabond... if you have to go back in to reseal.. which will be a long time if you did the job right, it will not be easy to remove. 5900 if that was what was on there before when I did the last job, scotchbrite and its gone.
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01-17-2014, 07:08 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,485
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We use both the Dri Bond and Loctite 5900. The 5900 is an excellent product and not at all hard to use, and does an excellent job of sealing, so I do not see the problem here......
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“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
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01-17-2014, 08:14 AM
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#10
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Registered Boxster abuser
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: socal
Posts: 1,014
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Ill try using it more, must not be use to the consistency of the product.
Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk
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01-17-2014, 09:15 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by san rensho
Depends on what you are using a gasket maker for. On the sump plate, I use permanent red, as little as absolutely possible. Works fine. Now, if I were resealing the cam covers, I would only use the P spec sealant.
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+1 The 50ml tube of Dri-Bond is barely enough to assemble 1 engine. It is a pain to get all the sealant out especially once it gets old. Rather than buy a new tube just for a sump plate I use Permatex Ultra Grey.
__________________
OE engine rebuilt,3.6 litre LN Engineering billet sleeves,triple row IMSB,LN rods. Deep sump oil pan with DT40 oil.
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01-17-2014, 09:17 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by healthservices
The one thing I will say about hondabond... if you have to go back in to reseal.. which will be a long time if you did the job right, it will not be easy to remove. 5900 if that was what was on there before when I did the last job, scotchbrite and its gone.
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5900 is black & harder to remove than Dri-bond which is clear.
__________________
OE engine rebuilt,3.6 litre LN Engineering billet sleeves,triple row IMSB,LN rods. Deep sump oil pan with DT40 oil.
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01-17-2014, 09:48 AM
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#13
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Registered Boxster abuser
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: socal
Posts: 1,014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BYprodriver
5900 is black & harder to remove than Dri-bond which is clear.
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Hmm the stuff that was on there must not have been 5900. Probably some type of cheap sealant, as it was a black sealant with a soft jello consistency
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01-17-2014, 03:50 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,466
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I don't like it but it did work as good or better than any other compound I ever used. The 3.6 engine took me about 3/4 of a tube. after 7800 miles I have no leaks what so ever
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2003 Black 986. modified for Advanced level HPDE and open track days.
* 3.6L LN block, 06 heads, Carrillo H rods, IDP with 987 intake, Oil mods, LN IMS. * Spec II Clutch, 3.2L S Spec P-P FW. * D2 shocks, GT3 arms & and links, Spacers front and rear * Weight reduced, No carpet, AC deleted, Remote PS pump, PS pump deleted. Recaro Pole position seats, Brey crouse ext. 5 point harness, NHP sport exhaust
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01-19-2014, 06:45 PM
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#15
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Beginner
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,659
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Good lord! I just had to remove my valve covers to re-time after a couple of weeks with 5900 setting up. Why use bolts? The 5900 was not letting go! It does not set up like RTV. and once the covers are off, a hard plastic scraper removes it from the aluminum, but gettnig the covers to pop free? I thought I was going to break them.
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2003 S manual
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01-19-2014, 09:18 PM
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#16
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Engine Surgeon
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Cleveland GA USA
Posts: 2,425
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You won't find a Raby engine with 5900 anywhere on it!
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Jake Raby/www.flat6innovations.com
IMS Solution/ Faultless Tool Inventor
US Patent 8,992,089 &
US Patent 9,416,697
Developer of The IMS Retrofit Procedure- M96/ M97 Specialist
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01-20-2014, 04:50 PM
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#17
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Beginner
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake Raby
You won't find a Raby engine with 5900 anywhere on it!
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What do you prefer?
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2003 S manual
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01-20-2014, 06:23 PM
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#18
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Certified Boxster Addict
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 7,669
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I use 5900 (sparingly). Track or street, never had a leak. With that said, I don't think that its got any magical properties, any good sealant will probably work as well.
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1999 996 C2 - sold - bought back - sold for more
1997 Spec Boxster BSR #254
1979 911 SC
POC Licensed DE/TT Instructor
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