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Old 08-20-2009, 07:07 PM   #1
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Did a Motorflush with GUNK motorflush and change oil WOW!

Dang finished it up and it feels like a brand new car!!! The oil that i drained out before i put the motor flush in it was about golden brown, looked like pretty healthy oil, then i put the motor flush in and idled for about 10 mins then drained the oil and it was BLACK. I'm talking really black like the way oil looks if you don't change it for a year. Put in Mobil 1 High mileage oil 10w-30 (she has 80k miles) and filled er up and now she feels REALLY good. Acceleration is so smooth and even just reving it, it doesn't feel heavy anymore. Better throttle response and just smoother all around drive it feels like a brand new car.

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Old 08-20-2009, 07:11 PM   #2
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IS Gunk the brand name?

I might try it...
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Old 08-20-2009, 07:15 PM   #3
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IS Gunk the brand name?

I might try it...
Yea it's the brand name you can pick it up at your local auto parts store i got mine from Autozone. Basically what it does is it's a cleaning agent that cleans out everywhere your oil goes. So the walls of the cylinder sleeves, the crank case, the pistons, the rods everything. They do the same stuff at oil change places but they charge u like $40 there u can DIY for like $10
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:11 PM   #4
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I assume that you used either their 5 MINUTE MOTOR FLUSH or their SYNTHETIC MOTOR FLUSH. If so, plan on doing a short interval oil change in the next 500-1000 miles (personally I'd go no more than 500 miles).

That's because this product is more than 75% solvents, mostly kerosene, and simply draining it with the oil does not eliminate it all from the system, nor does the new oil really dilute it in any way. Instead, the remaining solvents tend to cause an early breakdown of the 'new' oil.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not averse to using a motor flush at all. But, if you don't get it all out, your attempt to clean the motor can, over the long run, actually do more harm than good. If flushing the motor, consider it a $100-$200 project, or don't do it at all.

You don't state what weight oil you were running before the flush. While you may well have improved the engine performance, if you started with 40 or 50 weight and switched to 30 weight, that could well account for what you're experiencing. Btw, the general concensus is that 30 weight oil is too light for the M96 engine (do a search on motor oil weights here - no shortage of reading material). If short servicing it in the near future, I would recommend refilling with a 40 weight oil.

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Last edited by Lil bastard; 08-20-2009 at 08:13 PM.
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:42 PM   #5
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"Lil" nailed it.

Put the stuff in.. drain it.. put CHEAP/JUNK oil back in for a couple of hundred miles, then switch to the oil of your choice!

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Old 08-20-2009, 08:43 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Lil bastard
I assume that you used either their 5 MINUTE MOTOR FLUSH or their SYNTHETIC MOTOR FLUSH. If so, plan on doing a short interval oil change in the next 500-1000 miles (personally I'd go no more than 500 miles).

That's because this product is more than 75% solvents, mostly kerosene, and simply draining it with the oil does not eliminate it all from the system, nor does the new oil really dilute it in any way. Instead, the remaining solvents tend to cause an early breakdown of the 'new' oil.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not averse to using a motor flush at all. But, if you don't get it all out, your attempt to clean the motor can, over the long run, actually do more harm than good. If flushing the motor, consider it a $100-$200 project, or don't do it at all.

You don't state what weight oil you were running before the flush. While you may well have improved the engine performance, if you started with 40 or 50 weight and switched to 30 weight, that could well account for what you're experiencing. Btw, the general concensus is that 30 weight oil is too light for the M96 engine (do a search on motor oil weights here - no shortage of reading material). If short servicing it in the near future, I would recommend refilling with a 40 weight oil.

I used 10w-30 full synthetic before and after because that's mostly what they sell in 90% of stores around here. I usually keep a very close eye on my oil levels and color. Making sure that it's no darker than golden brown and it's sitting right right at optimum level. My next oil change i'll have to try a 40 weight or 50 weight, but so far 30 weight has been good to me. If i notice the oil getting much darker prematurely i would of course change the oil earlier but for now i've been noticing the car runs much smoother, much better throttle response and it just feels not as heavy as it used to.

This was my experience with the motor flush i'll have to update this after sometime to see how it all worked out.
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:48 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Brad Roberts
"Lil" nailed it.

Put the stuff in.. drain it.. put CHEAP/JUNK oil back in for a couple of hundred miles, then switch to the oil of your choice!

B
Hmm alright then, good thing i didn't spend too much on oil, i got the 5 quart jugs from walmart Mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic 10w-30 $20 for a 5 quart jug. I'll try to find some 10w-40 mobil 1 of the same stuff
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:52 PM   #8
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You did fine. Think of it this way: Taking a bath. You wash, you rinse, but you are still sitting in the dirt/grime that came off of you!! you then turn the shower on to rinse off.. change the oil again (final rinse)


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Old 08-20-2009, 09:03 PM   #9
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+1 on no 30 weight oil and doing a quick change to get out the solvents!!

I use castrol syntec xxW40. Just my preference after some extensive research. just replace xx with your climate's tolerable level. there are better but they are a lot more $$$
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Old 08-20-2009, 09:09 PM   #10
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I tried to avoid recommending an oil..





So far.. everything we have seen.. Mobil1 is not the one you want. Remember this: Porsche sells the rights to recommend products for their vehicles. How do you think Continental landed the "factory" recommended tire!! LOL


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Old 08-20-2009, 09:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigborian
Hmm alright then, good thing i didn't spend too much on oil, i got the 5 quart jugs from walmart Mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic 10w-30 $20 for a 5 quart jug. I'll try to find some 10w-40 mobil 1 of the same stuff

Availability of 40W can be an issue for some, but try Race or Speed Shops, they will usually have what you need. Another source, one I use, is the local distributor. They'll usually have a City Desk and do individual sales, usually lower than retail, just check for phone listings in your area.

Also, there are many internet sources for motor oil and it's easy to get exactly what you need. Since an oil change is a pre-planned event, using the net makes perfect sense - that's where I get all my motorcycle oil.

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Old 08-20-2009, 09:28 PM   #12
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Napa, walmart and auto zone both carried 10w40 and a couple had 5w40 in various brands including, dare I say it, mobil 1. I still like castrol syntec
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Old 08-21-2009, 03:46 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by bigborian
Hmm alright then, good thing i didn't spend too much on oil, i got the 5 quart jugs from walmart Mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic 10w-30 $20 for a 5 quart jug. I'll try to find some 10w-40 mobil 1 of the same stuff
I'm running the M1, 10w30 right now. The car runs a little hotter than before. I do not know what the previous owner had in it.
My next change will be to the 10w40. Not sure which type yet.... but you can probably bet I'll buy it on sale.
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Old 08-21-2009, 05:43 AM   #14
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I would get that 10-30 out sooner rather than later.
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Old 08-21-2009, 05:49 AM   #15
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...My next change will be to the 10w40. Not sure which type yet.... but you can probably bet I'll buy it on sale.

Hey, I'm all for getting stuff on sale, I'm as miserly as they come - I do not have the first dollar I ever made... but I do have the second

But, the right oil is more important than saving a couple bucks in the short run.

Without pointing at you, it always amazes me how people will throw top dollar after the Flavor-of-the-Month Bling, Go-Fast part or Tires and then try to save $10 on something really important like oil, plugs or anti-freeze.

Save a buck where you can, but put priority on using the right oil(s). In the long run, that'll save more than a few $$.

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Old 08-21-2009, 06:25 AM   #16
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so i guess a general consensus is castrol syntec is the oil of choice? That one i did see in a 10w-40 5 quart jug for $20 at walmart. Also since i also changed the oil filter during my motor flush would i have to get a new filter when i do my 500 mile oil change or can i leave the one i just replaced still in there?

Btw I use Valvoline 5W-30 synthetic on my civic si, but just thought that mobil 1 would be better for the porsche since that's what it says in the rear trunk. This weekend i'm changing plugs and fuel filter. Bosch iridium/platinum fusion, and napa fuel filter.
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Old 08-21-2009, 08:23 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by bigborian
Hmm alright then, good thing i didn't spend too much on oil, i got the 5 quart jugs from walmart Mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic 10w-30 $20 for a 5 quart jug. I'll try to find some 10w-40 mobil 1 of the same stuff

If you want to save more take a look for the $10 off rebate from Mobil. They're running a deal until the end of the month for $10 back on 5 quarts of Mobil 1. You can only send in two rebates. If you still have your receipts from Walmart you could potentially get $20 back from Mobil 1.

http://mail-in-rebate-forms.blogspot.com/2009/04/mobil-rebate-offers.html

I just bought my Mobil 1 from Kragen's and took advantage of a deal where you buy 4 get 1 free. Then I got this rebate deal on top of that!

Kirk
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Old 08-21-2009, 08:39 AM   #18
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If you want to save more take a look for the $10 off rebate from Mobil. They're running a deal until the end of the month for $10 back on 5 quarts of Mobil 1. You can only send in two rebates. If you still have your receipts from Walmart you could potentially get $20 back from Mobil 1.

http://mail-in-rebate-forms.blogspot.com/2009/04/mobil-rebate-offers.html

I just bought my Mobil 1 from Kragen's and took advantage of a deal where you buy 4 get 1 free. Then I got this rebate deal on top of that!

Kirk
oh nice thanks, does this apply for the 5 quart jugs or do i need to buy 5 individual quarts?
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Old 08-21-2009, 09:45 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Brad Roberts
I tried to avoid recommending an oil..





So far.. everything we have seen.. Mobil1 is not the one you want. Remember this: Porsche sells the rights to recommend products for their vehicles. How do you think Continental landed the "factory" recommended tire!! LOL


B
I think Continental landed its OEM fitment like everyone else: submit tires to Porsche for testing, implement improvements required by Porsche to qualify for N rating. Mobil 1 is factory fill for every new Porsche, Viper, AMG MBZ , & Corvette since 1984. Always think twice before second guessing OEM engineers.

I buy only Michelin tires
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Old 08-21-2009, 10:14 AM   #20
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How about I grew up 15min from Mobil 1 headquarters and know for a fact that they buy the rights? (since 84) I agree Porsche does send out a "min. requirements" sheet to the manufacturers, but that doesn't mean the oil we bought from Mobil1 for a 97 Boxster is the same oil we get now. Matter of fact, we know it is different.

I'm the first person on the planet to point out armchair engineering but I also know how this works. Money talks.

2 out of the last 3 Factory Porsche backed ALMS teams I have worked with since 99 have been sponsored by Mobil1. NONE of the engines had Mobil1 in them.

Those people I know from Mobil1? ChemE's who actually help develop the formula's. They also test all the other brands to see what the next guy is doing.

I used Mobil1 up until I found out who PMNA uses for oil analyzing and started having my oil analyzed. Big difference between the different oils. Pick your poison.


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