What front anti-roll bar do I want for Track Work?

[The Radium King]

Originally Posted by maytag

You're talking about these at $1200?
https://www.elephantracing.com/porsche/996-997/adjustable-control-arms-and-links/#adjustable-lower-control-arms-lower-wishbone

It says they need to be used in conjunction with their camber plates, another $650.

Are these really that much superior to these from Pelican, for instance?
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/SPCO72610.htm?pn=SPCO-72610&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyf7z9aOO3wIVg8VkCh3fvwuwEAQYASAB EgJAaPD_BwE

Or these from RENNLINE for $850?

lots of variables:

serviceable ball joints? you don't want to throw away a $1000 control arm because the ball joint wears.

adjustable thrust arm bushings? big camber pushes the control arm out and impacts caster (especially at the front where the thrust arms are shorter).

monoball or rubber bushings? how much play do you want in your suspension?

adjustment mechanism - shims are extra $.

quality - do you trust spc after what steve went through?

ps, note that the rennline arms are $600 a PAIR, but the ends are $250 EACH ($500 a pair) so the rennline product is $1100. with the elephant product for the addnl $90 you get solid thrust arm bushings, serviceable ball joints, and a simpler adjustment mechanism.

[maytag]

Originally Posted by The Radium King

lots of variables:

serviceable ball joints? you don't want to throw away a $1000 control arm because the ball joint wears.

adjustable thrust arm bushings? big camber pushes the control arm out and impacts caster (especially at the front where the thrust arms are shorter).

monoball or rubber bushings? how much play do you want in your suspension?

adjustment mechanism - shims are extra $.

quality - do you trust spc after what steve went through?

ps, note that the rennline arms are $600 a PAIR, but the ends are $250 EACH ($500 a pair) so the rennline product is $1100. with the elephant product for the addnl $90 you get solid thrust arm bushings, serviceable ball joints, and a simpler adjustment mechanism.

Aaaahhhhh...... great info.
Why does elephant's description say I need to use their camber plates as well?

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[MaxD]

It is really simple - Front: GT3 bar or equivalent, lots of adjustment
Rear: all depend on if you run a square or staggered setup

As far as control arms - go factory, fine on the street
or RSS if your good going solid (because we really can't afford the cup parts)

Both of the above arms are far stronger than the elephant stuff - compression on threads, really.

[The Radium King]

Originally Posted by MaxD

Both of the above arms are far stronger than the elephant stuff - compression on threads, really.

compression strength won't be much different than tension strength, hey? presume more than adequate for the application (threaded fasteners are designed for tension). i'd be more worried about the shear strength, however not much opportunity for a shear load in the application.

[MaxD]

Originally Posted by The Radium King

compression strength won't be much different than tension strength, hey? presume more than adequate for the application (threaded fasteners are designed for tension). i'd be more worried about the shear strength, however not much opportunity for a shear load in the application.

Once you have threaded that arm out 20mm for your -4 degrees of camber your presumption of adequate is just that.

I'll stick with something proven to stand up to the abuse we all dish out. A 20mm shim.

[The Radium King]

Originally Posted by MaxD

Once you have threaded that arm out 20mm for your -4 degrees of camber your presumption of adequate is just that.

I'll stick with something proven to stand up to the abuse we all dish out. A 20mm shim.

so you know how much thread remains engaged at a 20 mm extension? i'd suggest that you are the one making presumptions?

btw, max shim is 16mm and thats another $32 per side. ps, i've seen a car go into the wall when the shim popped out of his rear lower control arm. it was a lambo, though.

[rastta]

Originally Posted by MaxD

Once you have threaded that arm out 20mm for your -4 degrees of camber your presumption of adequate is just that.

I'll stick with something proven to stand up to the abuse we all dish out. A 20mm shim.

I think your making some pretty big assumptions. The extension of the arm is minimal at 3.5 degrees of camber, in fact there is barely any thread showing. It could easily go 4+ without much more extension.

To each his own I guess, I didn't want to bother with shims or throw out $1000 dollars worth of arms when the ball joint goes or I tear the boot removing them to replace a wheel bearing. I prefer stuff that is easily user serviceable with replaceable parts.

[maytag]

Originally Posted by MaxD

As far as control arms - go factory, fine on the street

You're saying GT3 Factory, right? Not 986 Factory? Right?

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[MaxD]

Originally Posted by maytag

You're saying GT3 Factory, right? Not 986 Factory? Right?

Yup - 996 GT3 arms