Spec Boxster Build

[trygve]

Originally Posted by The Radium King

hey - wondering what you spec guys use for a rear tow hook - a 996 rear or a 986 front? rennline doesn't list a rear 986 tow hook. thanks.

I like this one. It retracts and is not a hazard for smashing your shin accidentally. I am not sure where I purchased it but I think it was $95 at the time. It bolts into the frame rail so it requires removal of the interior bumper bar (which is de rigeur for weight loss anyway).
Retractable Tow Hook for Porsche 911 & Boxster By Patrick Motorsports Porsche & Mid Engine Performance Specialists


I still have some photos of installing it on my SPB here. You just cut a slot in the bumper for it. An exacto knife will cut through the bumper pretty easily.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/bombaydigital/

[The Radium King]

cool - fronts are same length as backs. thanks.

[thstone]

As Trygve said ^^^^^

Here is a pic of the install on my car.

[thstone]

Sorry that I haven't updated this thread in awhile. There has been a LOT going on and I was waiting for everything to shake out.

** CAUTION ** TURN BACK NOW ** GRAPHIC ENGINE FAILURE PIC'S ** YOU WERE WARNED **

Unfortunately, my engine failed again during the first practice session at the PCA Willow Springs race. The engine suffered a catastrophic rod bearing failure. Since the complete rebuild in August, it only had 300-400 miles of street/freeway driving and 1.2 hrs of track time.

This was my 3rd engine failure in 5 months. To review; the first failure was in May - lifter failure. The engine was rebuilt but failed in June due to another lifter failure. Then the engine was then entirely rebuilt again in August using brand new lifters and lifter carriers to prevent a repeat of failure #2.

From my point of view while driving, it felt like the engine was low on power exiting Turn 3 and going up the hill into Turn 4. After coming down the hill and through Turns 5 and 6, the engine made a big bad noise, immediately shutdown, and spewed oil all over the track before the Turn 7 kink. The time between noticing low power and total engine failure was around 20 seconds.

This engine was a total loss (not rebuildable). And no, there isn't any warranty on engines used for racing. Ouch. That hurt. $eriously hurt.

As a result of the down time from engine failures #1 and #2, I had previously decided that I couldn't stand to be down for months due to an engine failure so I had already purchased a used engine (92K mile Tip) as a backup - I just didn't plan to need it quite this soon!

But being prepared for just this occurrence meant that the used engine could be swapped into the car in a couple of weeks rather than waiting 2+ months for a rebuild.

I specifically chose a high mileage Tip engine for two reasons; one, if the IMS made it this far, it is probably ok. Two, my theory is that Tip drivers may not rev the engine as much as a typical manual driver so the engine may have had a little easier life.

I plan to have the used engine dyno tested to see how the power compares to the original and rebuilt engines and will report back.

The replacement engine was also fairly cheap (around $4K including the labor to perform the swap) as compared to a full professional rebuild ($14K+).

With all of that being said, this update ends with the car running again and ready for more action.

Stay tuned for a special announcement coming in early December regarding 2015...



Intermix coming out the intake ports is never a good sign....



Lots of debris in the pan...



Missing a nice big piece of the cylinder and the case (directly above the missing cylinder)...



Broken camshaft, bent valves...



This is what was left of the rod and piston...



Crankshaft damage indicates a rod bearing failure...

[com3dorm3]

Whoa that hurts!!
I should have paid attention to the warning, but I had to see it...
Any insight on the possible cause of the rod bearing failure?
Sorry to hear about the kaput, but good that you have another engine lined up already.

[thstone]

Originally Posted by com3dorm3

Any insight on the possible cause of the rod bearing failure?

Unfortunately, with damage that severe it's impossible to know the cause.

I am finding that racing tests your level of commitment in many ways and some of them aren't on the track. No one said that racing would be easy and this is one more example of how racing is often seen as a microcosm of life.

Glad that this is behind me and really looking forward to 2015!

[stephen wilson]

I didn't see it mentioned, what oiling system mods do you have ?

[Topless]

Eeeeesh! That sucks the joy out of racing. Sorry Tom.

I do think "plan B" is wise though. When a motor grenades it stresses, wears, and deforms in unexpected ways and shiny bits get into everything, everywhere. A sound used motor with clean oil is not a 100% sure thing but probably a lot more certain than one that has been a metallic sausage grinder. I went through this in an earlier life with both a 350 Chevy and Ford 351 motors.

Best wishes for 2015 my friend!

[thstone]

Originally Posted by stephen wilson

I didn't see it mentioned, what oiling system mods do you have ?

The engine had an EBS sump baffle but otherwise is stock. No Accusump. But I am seriously looking at options.

[thstone]

The more I learn, the less I know.

It seems that the only way to be sure of maintaining oil pressure (to the largest extent) is to use an EPC-based Accusump system. Anything less will leave open a window of uncertainty. Baffles, windage trays, deep sumps, etc. are all steps in the right direction but they don't seem to guarantee what an Accusump can.

The other concern not yet mentioned in this discussion is oil temp and film strength. It appears to be critical to never let the oil get too hot. Thus, I am looking into a data logging system that can provide temp alerts and possibly an external oil cooler.

I'll have to continue researching these subjects. Right now, not exactly sure what to do.

[seningen]

Originally Posted by thstone

The more I learn, the less I know.

It seems that the only way to be sure of maintaining oil pressure (to the largest extent) is to use an EPC-based Accusump system. Anything less will leave open a window of uncertainty. Baffles, windage trays, deep sumps, etc. are all steps in the right direction but they don't seem to guarantee what an Accusump can.

The other concern not yet mentioned in this discussion is oil temp and film strength. It appears to be critical to never let the oil get too hot. Thus, I am looking into a data logging system that can provide temp alerts and possibly an external oil cooler.

I'll have to continue researching these subjects. Right now, not exactly sure what to do.

I lost a 944 engine within accusump

We've been lucky since adding an oil cooler and running amsoil.

Is that the key? I don't know.

My next plan for my boxster s is an oil cooler and low temp
Thermostat.

Not sure I'll go all the way to an accusump.

Mike

[thstone]

Originally Posted by seningen

I lost a 944 engine within accusump

We've been lucky since adding an oil cooler and running amsoil.

Is that the key? I don't know.

My next plan for my boxster s is an oil cooler and low temp
Thermostat.

Not sure I'll go all the way to an accusump.

Mike

Thanks for the input Mike! My car already has a low temp t-stat. I am also looking at oil coolers and saw your post in the Spec Boxster area on Rennlist. Let me know if you learn something that doesn't get posted.

[seningen]

Originally Posted by thstone

Thanks for the input Mike! My car already has a low temp t-stat. I am also looking at oil coolers and saw your post in the Spec Boxster area on Rennlist. Let me know if you learn something that doesn't get posted.

Need to see if I can find it again, but I saw a nice looking setup
Where they ran an accusump and remote oil filter in the trunk and
Two coolers in the rear bumper area, one for oil and one for tranny.

Not that I want more weight in the back...

I wouldn't run the oil cooler up front, although
That is what my RSR does, but 911s are used to pushing oil to the dry sump
And it does help with weight distribution.

My S already has the 3rd radiator.

I've seen a setup that deletes the oil/water radiator on top of the block and takes the oil from there for circulation, however I think most take it off the filter housing.

I'll look for the pictures of that setup.
I had sent a q about a turnkey system but got no response.

I'm also considering a forced air setup in the triangle
In the bracing are near tranny, but not in love with oil cooling near exhaust
But that maybe no different than rear bumper

FOUND IT --- to me this looks like a pretty sweet setup.

http://www.dartauto.com/projects/2013/8/20/spec-boxster-accusump-and-transmission-oil-cooler/


Mike

[Topless]

RE: oil cooler setup

Have a look a McDuff's ext. cooler in the rear trunk. It may be overkill but data on temps and pressures looked really good at Chuckie last month in 95F ambient. I was pretty impressed with his results. Not sure if his setup meets current BSR rules though.

Meanwhile another accusump-equipped car developed rod knock. Accusump looks like it is batting about 220 so far this season.

[steved0x]

I'm going to be the one to show my ignorance and ask: can you add the 3rd center radiator? Would that help keep things cooler, including the oil?

[thstone]

Originally Posted by steved0x

I'm going to be the one to show my ignorance and ask: can you add the 3rd center radiator? Would that help keep things cooler, including the oil?

That is a perfectly good question!

I have a few thoughts on the center (3rd) radiator;

One, I worry that using the coolant to lower the oil temps is hugely inefficient. Seems like direct oil cooling would be best. But you bring up a really good point.

Second, the 3rd radiator adds weight that would need to be removed somewhere else. Ok, so remove some weight somewhere else - I hear you.

Third, in my experience the 3rd radiator may not be enough. On days when the coolant temps in my car were getting too high, the same was happening to the cars with the 3rd radiator. So I wonder if the 3rd radiator is really worth the weight and expense. This one is a little harder to sort out.

Thanks for the input and I will certainly re-look at the 3rd radiator as I sort this out...

[steved0x]

What about a dedicated oil cooler in the 3rd radiator spot? Or do you lose too much pressure with a long run like that? I seem like I remember reading folks have a hard time adding oil coolers due to space constraints?

[thstone]

Originally Posted by steved0x

What about a dedicated oil cooler in the 3rd radiator spot? Or do you lose too much pressure with a long run like that? I seem like I remember reading folks have a hard time adding oil coolers due to space constraints?

Exactly right; the worry about running an external cooler in the front is the pressure loss over that distance. I am looking to see what might mount in the rear to keep the distance minimized.

[cmacduff]

Gents- my $.02 cents for what it's worth.

As topless mentioned I had an external oil cooler added to the rear trunk of my car ( capacity and efficiency of the cooler was conveyed to me to be 4x the efficacy of the stock S cooler) I had motec data analysis before and after the addition of the cooler. Additionally I had some oil pan baffle mods done by Dwain at Vision Motorsports and have before and after data. My oil temps before the cooler in the warmer weather were topping 250 degrees and engine temps were topping 210. Usually toward the mid to end of a 20 minute session. Additionally I was having oil pressure issues in a few corners at WSIR and AA speedway. With the addition of the cooler, oil pan mods I was running 25-30 degrees cooler in back to back events in September at WSIR and ambient temps were pretty similar. Additionally oil pressures improved quite a bit. My engine temps never topped 195 degrees where previously they had topped 210. I have all the data to support these changes and conclusions. I've had the oil tested twice also since these changes and it came back clean. This also included a day on the AA speedway roval. As Topless mentioned data from CVR where it was pretty warm again was really good.

I like Tom have been through a motor in the last year so we'll see how this one holds up with these mods. Initial signs look good.

[seningen]

Originally Posted by cmacduff

Gents- my $.02 cents for what it's worth.

As topless mentioned I had an external oil cooler added to the rear trunk of my car ( capacity and efficiency of the cooler was conveyed to me to be 4x the efficacy of the stock S cooler) I had motec data analysis before and after the addition of the cooler. Additionally I had some oil pan baffle mods done by Dwain at Vision Motorsports and have before and after data. My oil temps before the cooler in the warmer weather were topping 250 degrees and engine temps were topping 210. Usually toward the mid to end of a 20 minute session. Additionally I was having oil pressure issues in a few corners at WSIR and AA speedway. With the addition of the cooler, oil pan mods I was running 25-30 degrees cooler in back to back events in September at WSIR and ambient temps were pretty similar. Additionally oil pressures improved quite a bit. My engine temps never topped 195 degrees where previously they had topped 210. I have all the data to support these changes and conclusions. I've had the oil tested twice also since these changes and it came back clean. This also included a day on the AA speedway roval. As Topless mentioned data from CVR where it was pretty warm again was really good.

I like Tom have been through a motor in the last year so we'll see how this one holds up with these mods. Initial signs look good.

This supports what I have found holds our 944 engine together in Chumps.
Before adding an oil cooler -- we went through several engines. Accusump didn't matter.

Do you have pictures of your installation? Do you have a build sheet we might be able to mimic?

thanks,

Mike