Swapping engines

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by 78F350

On these cars I've found that an engine support bar makes the job much easier. Here's a JFP post: http://986forum.com/forums/641804-post19.html

Also, if you are careful with placement (NOT the middle of the sump plate) a heavy duty transmission jack works great for lowering and lifting in conjunction with the bar for stability.

One last note from me... The car needs to be raised up high to have clearance to move the engine past the suspension brackets. I don't have a lift and typically will have the car at several different heights through the process and only have it highest when moving it past the suspension. The first time I did it I used cheap jack stands on blocks - Stupid and unsafe. Splurge on some good jack stands if you don't have a lift available.

Fate must've wanted me to have an engine support bar. I bought this one at Amazon this afternoon after talking to a guy I call "The Grizzled Mechanic." Now you suggest the same thing. It's fate, I tell you.

https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Support-Capacity-Transverse-Garages/dp/B096FY98BS/

I've got some heavy-duty jack stands. Jack stands are the last thing I want to cheap out on. There seem to be a number of schemes to get the back end high enough to clear the suspension brackets. BTW, I don't see the necessity of removing the bumper cover, bumper, axles, drivelines, or even the transmission, as some have done. I prefer that those components remain where they are.

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

... BTW, I don't see the necessity of removing the ... transmission, as some have done. I prefer that those components remain where they are.

I don't see how you can not remove the transmission. The transmission shaft goes into the clutch/flywheel so either the tranny has to be pulled back or the engine moved forward... which is impossible. If you move the transmission back you have effectively removed it. Not the same as a front engine car where you can remove the radiator and slide the engine off the transmission shaft. The rest of the stuff you can leave in place.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by elgyqc

I don't see how you can not remove the transmission. The transmission shaft goes into the clutch/flywheel so either the tranny has to be pulled back or the engine moved forward... which is impossible. If you move the transmission back you have effectively removed it. Not the same as a front engine car where you can remove the radiator and slide the engine off the transmission shaft. The rest of the stuff you can leave in place.

I defer to your greater experience in swapping 986 engines, Grant. I had assumed there would be room to slide the engine forward off the transmission shaft, like I've done with conventional engines. A boneheaded assumption (and not by any means my very first one).

[LoneWolfGal]

Gotta admit, the thought of having a clean, low-miles engine in my 986 brings a grin to my face. It justifies the restoration I plan to do on the car. Someone commented in this thread that 986s are "worth saving." I second that. I think the series 1 986s will one day be regarded with the reverence we now accord the first series 911s, with a value to match. As much as possible, I want to ensure mine makes it to classic status. The numbers won't match, so it won't be "correct," but that might not matter to someone who can appreciate its exceptional beauty.

[78F350]

If Kroil fails, consider a magnetic induction nut/bolt heater. I don't know what kind of dark magic this thing employs, but it works. Recently I pulled all the bolts out of a 1980s Fiero exhaust system. Soaking in penetrant did nothing. Less than a minute with this thing had them glowing orange and they all came out with the threads intact.

[986tate]

I also made my own puller and cam lock tools.

[flmont]

I know the Solution is expensive you can get them on sale at times for around 15-1600.00, But honestly with a nice low mileage engine the fact that it will never be a issue is great piece of mind, I know it's hard to spend that kind of money when your in deep enough as it is,.But even a" New " bearing can go bad, But with the Solution you will never need to worry about it no matter the mileage you drive, Good Luck,..!! Frank

[78F350]

Originally Posted by flmont

I know the Solution is expensive you can get them on sale at times for around 15-1600.00, ...

There's a $200 off sale on their eBay store right now. If it doesn't show for you, make the offer and they'll likely accept.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by 78F350

There's a $200 off sale on their eBay store right now. If it doesn't show for you, make the offer and they'll likely accept.

I doubt they would consider an offer of $679. That's about as much as I can talk myself into spending for an IMS bearing. Before I started checking prices I had assumed an IMS bearing replacement would be in $400 - $500 territory — more than the $200 - $300 it's actually worth, because it's for a Porsche. Talk about naive!

[flmont]

lol...yes indeed..I understand completely,..I think they would sell a lot more if they lowered the price Iam sure they have recouped the investment by now...but Patent's are expensive I guess, But you can always install one in the future,..maybe do a dual row for now.. Frank

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by flmont

I know the Solution is expensive you can get them on sale at times for around 15-1600.00, But honestly with a nice low mileage engine the fact that it will never be a issue is great piece of mind, I know it's hard to spend that kind of money when your in deep enough as it is,.But even a" New " bearing can go bad, But with the Solution you will never need to worry about it no matter the mileage you drive, Good Luck,..!! Frank

The Solution's exorbitant cost, on top of what I shelled out for the engine, has me doing some serious ratiocination.