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Old 09-11-2024, 04:19 PM   #9
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Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Oregon
Posts: 533
Quote:
Originally Posted by 78F350 View Post
On these cars I've found that an engine support bar makes the job much easier. Here's a JFP post: http://986forum.com/forums/641804-post19.html

Also, if you are careful with placement (NOT the middle of the sump plate) a heavy duty transmission jack works great for lowering and lifting in conjunction with the bar for stability.

One last note from me... The car needs to be raised up high to have clearance to move the engine past the suspension brackets. I don't have a lift and typically will have the car at several different heights through the process and only have it highest when moving it past the suspension. The first time I did it I used cheap jack stands on blocks - Stupid and unsafe. Splurge on some good jack stands if you don't have a lift available.
Fate must've wanted me to have an engine support bar. I bought this one at Amazon this afternoon after talking to a guy I call "The Grizzled Mechanic." Now you suggest the same thing. It's fate, I tell you.

https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Support-Capacity-Transverse-Garages/dp/B096FY98BS/

I've got some heavy-duty jack stands. Jack stands are the last thing I want to cheap out on. There seem to be a number of schemes to get the back end high enough to clear the suspension brackets. BTW, I don't see the necessity of removing the bumper cover, bumper, axles, drivelines, or even the transmission, as some have done. I prefer that those components remain where they are.
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2000 986 base
Arctic Silver/black
2.7 liter
5-speed manual

Last edited by LoneWolfGal; 09-11-2024 at 07:56 PM.
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