AC idle drop, sometimes stalls

[PLP]

Originally Posted by 78F350

I'll bet there are a few of us that can send you a used original Porsche one for a reasonable price. I'd try a throttle body cleaning too before buying parts.

How long would a used one last?

Is there anything else that may cause the unstable idle?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by PLP

How long would a used one last?

Is there anything else that may cause the unstable idle?

How high is up? How far is long? There is no way of knowing.

If you have a friend with a similar Boxster, try swapping ICV's and see if the problem moves with the valve................

[blue62]

Originally Posted by PLP

How long would a used one last?

Is there anything else that may cause the unstable idle?

The three things that I can think of off the top of my head are.

Vacuum leak.
Faulty MAF sensor... or related wiring
Faulty ICV.... or related wiring

I am sure there are more things:

[PLP]

Originally Posted by blue62

The three things that I can think of off the top of my head are.

Vacuum leak.
Faulty MAF sensor... or related wiring
Faulty ICV.... or related wiring

I am sure there are more things:

Sure, many things could be a problem, but if the car starts just fine, has the power, runs smoothly, and only has idle issues, especially at AC load, then what could that narrow down to?

Again, if I let the RPM drop quickly, then it has tendency to stall. If I do it gently (engine braking down to close to idle) it will dive, but recovers and stays OK.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by PLP

Sure, many things could be a problem, but if the car starts just fine, has the power, runs smoothly, and only has idle issues, especially at AC load, then what could that narrow down to?

Again, if I let the RPM drop quickly, then it has tendency to stall. If I do it gently (engine braking down to close to idle) it will dive, but recovers and stays OK.

The three things I listed is where I would start.

[PLP]

Originally Posted by blue62

The three things I listed is where I would start.

Yup, I will get to it. Does not seem to be pressing issue... I rather need to take care of my daily and tire low pressure

Anyway, why I asked was due to the fact that I experience issues at idle under load. If I do not see (or I am just believing I do not...) issues elsewhere, I was trying to justify MAF issues and related. If the MAF was filthy, clogged, wouldn't it exhibit problems elsewhere?

Vacuum leak - under load/higher rpm, small leak would not be noticeable, so this one makes sense as well.

ICV - it's responsibility is idle only.


Just "brainstorming".

[blue62]

Originally Posted by PLP

Yup, I will get to it. Does not seem to be pressing issue... I rather need to take care of my daily and tire low pressure

Anyway, why I asked was due to the fact that I experience issues at idle under load. If I do not see (or I am just believing I do not...) issues elsewhere, I was trying to justify MAF issues and related. If the MAF was filthy, clogged, wouldn't it exhibit problems elsewhere?

Vacuum leak - under load/higher rpm, small leak would not be noticeable, so this one makes sense as well.

ICV - it's responsibility is idle only.


Just "brainstorming".

Old and very wise rule of automotive trouble shooting:
Always go with the simplest things first.
Then work your way up the diagnostic tree.
So.....
Vacuum test is the simplest of the three in my list you just need a vacuum gauge.
MAF sensor is next.... you can unplug it then take the car for a drive and see if the issue changes.
Wiring can be tested with a Multi Meter.
Last replace the ICV..
Simple.

[PLP]

Originally Posted by blue62

Old and very wise rule of automotive trouble shooting:
Always go with the simplest things first.
Simple.

Very so true. Start with outside and follow inside.
My old story - I was helping my dad to resolve why in his 1982 Passat front parking lights would not work. It just came back from a body shop and both headlights were replaced. Low beams, high beams, fogs - are good. Parking lights - gone. Rear works, though.
Those cars were known for electrical issues. The old style connectors were poor.
I spent 3 hours chasing fuses, relays, connectors. I found that power is delivered to the headlight.
So finally, lets check the light bulbs.
Well, they were never installed.... and once you put them in - all worked just fine.
I spent 3.5 hours doing a 15 minute job. In late fall, in Poland (kind of like Michigan weather...).

Originally Posted by blue62

MAF sensor is next.... you can unplug it then take the car for a drive and see if the issue changes.
Wiring can be tested with a Multi Meter.

So you can just unplug it and drive? It will not scream at me?