Leaking LN Magnetic Drain Plug!

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Yes, a simple one: We don’t reuse crush washers.

Nor would I. Not in your situation.

Working on one's own vehicle, even doing something that is not technically "standard of care" (though has proven time and time again to work just fine in practice), is a completely distinct process from working on someone else's machine, for compensation.

[maytag]

Originally Posted by Frodo

Nor would I. Not in your situation.



Working on one's own vehicle, even doing something that is not technically "standard of care" (though has proven time and time again to work just fine in practice), is a completely distinct process from working on someone else's machine, for compensation.

Y'know, I think this might be the most pertinent post to this topic.

When you're being compensated for something, the standard must be higher. Much higher. (But send those same techs home to their own garage and see how that standard applies. Especially if you've got any racers among them. I guarantee the standard is VERY different)

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[10/10ths]

The point about buying a used Boxster which already had the LN plug installed and the new owner not knowing about it is a very valid argument for “RTFM” not applying for the OP.

It’s a great point.

As posted above, LN upgraded their part and it is now labeled. As with most automotive aftermarket parts, once you start modifying a vehicle, you open a Pandora’s Box of trouble points.

These machines require due diligence and research. That’s why this forum has been a huge help for me. This forum has saved me all kinds of headaches.

Cheers.

[Rob175]

Just had my oil changed by my trusted "indi" shop and for the first time in 22 yrs it's leaking. They did replace the drain plug with a new drain plug (Porsche part, NOT the magnetic type) because after 22 yrs the original hex wrench opening was getting a bit rounded off. I also saw that they had a new aluminum crush washer with it.

But it's leaking only a bit....not a ton, but even a little oil on the rubber garage mat can look like a lot. So, they want me to bring it back and they'll lift it up and look.

I'm not an expert but I'm wondering if I should expect them to:
1. Pull the plug (collect the fresh oil for re-use) use a new crush washer and tighten to spec.
or.....
2. Just tighten the drain plug to torque specs (assuming it wasn't tighten properly in the first place) and see if it still leaks.
3. Start ALL OVER with new oil, new crush washer, tighten to spec.

Suggestions??......thx in advance.

[10/10ths]

.....but typically, oil leaks never get smaller.


It will act as a great indicator, however, if there are no more drops, there is no more oil in her.

😀

Good luck.

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by Rob175

Just had my oil changed by my trusted "indi" shop and for the first time in 22 yrs it's leaking. They did replace the drain plug with a new drain plug (Porsche part, NOT the magnetic type) because after 22 yrs the original hex wrench opening was getting a bit rounded off. I also saw that they had a new aluminum crush washer with it.

But it's leaking only a bit....not a ton, but even a little oil on the rubber garage mat can look like a lot. So, they want me to bring it back and they'll lift it up and look.

I'm not an expert but I'm wondering if I should expect them to:
1. Pull the plug (collect the fresh oil for re-use) use a new crush washer and tighten to spec.
or.....
2. Just tighten the drain plug to torque specs (assuming it wasn't tighten properly in the first place) and see if it still leaks.
3. Start ALL OVER with new oil, new crush washer, tighten to spec.

Suggestions??......thx in advance.

If I did the work myself to my own car, I'd opt for #2.

BUT... Having paid someone to do it, and since you had an indie vs a quick-lube joint do it I'm sure it wasn't cheap, I'd expect #3.

[78F350]

Originally Posted by blue62

...
You can anneal aluminum washers.
blacken with a magic marker.
heat just until the magic marker burns off.
Air cool room temp.

Working copper or aluminum work hardens both.
To the point where they become brittle and crack.
Annealing them takes both back to there normal malleable state

There are times when you just can't buy what your looking for.
maybe a washer of a certain size and thickness.

Today I changed the oil in my wife's Honda Element. Rather than using a new crush washer I annealed the old one because of this thread. Now I'm going go outside with a flashlight and check for a leak because of this thread.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by 78F350

Today I changed the oil in my wife's Honda Element. Rather than using a new crush washer I annealed the old one because of this thread. Now I'm going go outside with a flashlight and check for a leak because of this thread.

Let us know if it leaks

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by 78F350

Today I changed the oil in my wife's Honda Element. Rather than using a new crush washer I annealed the old one because of this thread. Now I'm going go outside with a flashlight and check for a leak because of this thread.

A new member in the Reuse That Crush Washer club?
I don't know...should we all, collectively, be "disgusted"?

[Rob175]

I'm hoping they offer to start all over but it's more likely they will first try just tightening the drain plug and tell me to come back if it continues to leak.

I can almost guarantee they DID NOT use a torque wrench to tighten the plug to the 35 ft/lb spec. Since I don't wrench myself I wonder how many ft/lbs someone with just a wrench and arm strength would typically tighten the drain plug..... my guess is without a accurate torque wrench they might not tighten the plug enough to "crush" the washer enough to make a good seal.....or conversly they made it too tight and damaged the crush washer..........no idea.

I suppose tomorrow at the shop will tell.........

[Frodo]

Well, assuming you're right and they did not use a torque wrench initially, and assuming they bother to look up the proper torque called for, it would only make sense that they'd start out by properly torquing it. What's to lose with that approach?

[Rob175]

Thanks Frodo.....I think tightening to specs is a good starting point. Like you said what's there to lose. I did get a few extra aluminum Porsche drain crush washers just in case they pull the plug.

[BFeller]

This conversation makes me miss my Guardian Plug in the oil pan. Wish I had another.....

[Rob175]

Can anyone confirm the stock (not the magnetic) torque spec. for the Boxster (98) oil drain plug.....I' read on one thread that it's 35 ft. lbs.

Seems a bit high, but then again not sure, so i thought others would know.....or send me to the proper reference source.

Thx

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by Frodo

What's to lose with that approach?

Only Rob175's time having to keep going back. That's what would frustrate me.

If I ran the shop I'd apologize to the customer, pull the drain plug, replace the crush washer and refill with new oil. And make damn sure it never happened again. And if I were the customer, anything less than that I'd find another indie for all my future service.

I can forgive mistakes, we all make them. It's how one remedies the mistake that separates the good shops from the rest.

[ccjazz]

Originally Posted by Rob175

Can anyone confirm the stock (not the magnetic) torque spec. for the Boxster (98) oil drain plug.....I' read on one thread that it's 35 ft. lbs.

Seems a bit high, but then again not sure, so i thought others would know.....or send me to the proper reference source.

Thx

Both the Bentley manual and 101 Projects book specify 37 ft-lbs torque for the stock drain plug.

[Rob175]

I’m guessing that my “indi” WILL START OVER. He’s always treated me excellently. I’ve been his customer for over 25 yrs and have brought him numerous cars over the years as well as recommending him to many of my friends and family.

I’ll report back but my guess is he’ll start over knowing I’m one of his good customers.

[Rob175]

So......
today back at the shop I watched from under the car and it appeared that it needed another 1/4 turn (using a torque wrench set to 37 ft. lbs)......parked it back in my garage, placed brown construction paper under it and I'll check it again later. Hopefully that's all it needed....probably lost a 1/4 cup of oil at the most. Oil on the paper spreads so it always looks more than it really is.

[Frodo]

Let us know, I'd be curious.

I know what Piper (and you) were sayin' about "starting over," draining, inserting plug with new crush washer and oil, but I suspect what he did will take care of the problem. (It did for me last time I changed the oil, though I wasn't using a torque wrench either time.)

The environmental (and frugal) part of me quietly objected to wasting 9 qts of expensive oil if it was not necessary—that notwithstanding the fact that I realize driving a Boxster isn't the most environmentally friendly thing I could do. (I have an 'out'...my wife drives a Prius and, unlike me, loves it. So we more or less offset each other )

[Qingdao]

Originally Posted by Frodo

The environmental (and frugal) part of me quietly objected to wasting 9 qts of expensive oil if it was not necessary—that notwithstanding the fact that I realize driving a Boxster isn't the most environmentally friendly thing I could do. (I have an 'out'...my wife drives a Prius and, unlike me, loves it. So we more or less offset each other )

I daily drive a turbo RX7 your offsets mean nothing LOL

But yeah no reason to drop all your oil. Just put a rubber plug (or just your finger) in there while you figure out what went wrong. Its not like you're holding anything but a few centimeters of head pressure.