water pump replacement

[mikesz]

I have done it twice.

First time I used Pedros method removed front engine mount and replaced it along with the thermostat. If you go that route the bolts are 10mm and easy to get to but you have to get car up so you can get under it for the motor mount.

Second time I just replaced the water pump. There is NO WAY you can do this without a 10mm flex head NOT AN ADAPTER for the 10mm socket.

I got a 5 gal bin from Walmart and drained the fluid into it and took it to the landfill. Replaced it with premixed prestone for our cars, opened the burp valve and drove around my neighborhood. Had the vacuum thing thought it was more work than it was worth. Probably useful at a garage where completing the job quickly is important but I didn't find it necessary.

I also added an S center cooler, my car is a 99.

[pilut2]

Originally Posted by mikesz

There is NO WAY you can do this without a 10mm flex head NOT AN ADAPTER for the 10mm socket.

Not true- the flex adapter works fine.

[piper6909]

This worked for me:

Craftsman 3/8 drive with a 8MM deep-well socket to break loose and tighten the bolt. It fit perfectly.



Then I switched to a regular 8MM socket, a swivel adapter and an extension (not pictured) to wind out the bolt.

[JayG]

Replace the bolts when you replace the WP. When I replaced mine several years ago, I torqued the head off one of the bolts at 7.5 FTLB!. Fortunately, there was enough sticking out of the block to easily remove it. I replaced the bolts with grade 8 capheads. I posted a thread on this.

YMMV

[JFP in PA]

Now you know why anti seize exists, we use it on every pump bolt on every pump replacement.

[Black Knight]

So I'll be updating my water pump in the near future. I've had the car 1.5 years and been working my way around the car and replacing items for preventative maintenance. Water pump still working well, temps are normal and no noises, but going to replace as it is 61K miles now an not sure if original or not.
My question is, while I am in there going to replace belt (of course) and thinking of adding Underdrive pulley. An 'internet genius' on another forum mentioned going with the 996 GT3 / Turbo Water pump as its pulley diameter would be a better match for the underdrive accessory and thus keep water pump turning at faster speeds.
What say you? Is this necessary - It was the first time I have ever seen this mentioned. I live in S FLorida and fans are kicking on frequently, but never had any overheating issues and car has ran well for the 5 thousand miles or so I've had it.
I'm thinking I should just stick with the standard 986 Boxster water pump (composite vanes) and not worry about it.
Thoughts?

[blue62]

you can push the water to fast.
When that happens the coolant is not in the radiator long enough for sufficient heat dissipation.
Sounds crazy I know.
Many times standard=OEM parts are best.

[mikesz]

I have done my water pump twice. First time I replaced the thermostat, coolant and front motor mount. Second time I added a center S radiator. I have a 99. It depends on how handy you are. Also, I burp the system and have done it twice always works fine. Bought one of those gadgets that works off the compressor. Personally didnt like it and sold it. Burp process works fine for me and easy to do. If you replace the motor mount getting to the water pump is much easier but you need to support the engine and get under the car to remove it and have new motormount pressed in. If you dont do motor mount you will need a 10 mm swivel head which will JUST fit in to remove the bottom bolt. Not impossible. Its nothing compared to retrofitting the power brake booster with the sealed bellows. I think that was the most awful job I have done to my care since owning it.

[tonythetiger]

to quote "new art," "No big deal. Pierburg water pump. Do the low temp stat while you’re in there. An Airlift tool makes coolant refill a breeze"

Note: It doesnt have to be an airlift, I bought a high quality clone (OEM tools 24444) for around 80 bucks (do not get the really cheap ones on amazon/ebay) because my indy shop that lends me such stuff broke their airlift. I let them use mine now and they love it.
the other advice from the forum on reaching bolts, etc is spot on. This is a straightforward job. Check/replace your pulleys, replacing the belt and of course flush your coolant. (this is really easy with the tool )

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by mikesz

I have done my water pump twice. First time I replaced the thermostat, coolant and front motor mount. Second time I added a center S radiator. I have a 99. It depends on how handy you are. Also, I burp the system and have done it twice always works fine. Bought one of those gadgets that works off the compressor. Personally didnt like it and sold it. Burp process works fine for me and easy to do. If you replace the motor mount getting to the water pump is much easier but you need to support the engine and get under the car to remove it and have new motormount pressed in. If you dont do motor mount you will need a 10 mm swivel head which will JUST fit in to remove the bottom bolt. Not impossible. Its nothing compared to retrofitting the power brake booster with the sealed bellows. I think that was the most awful job I have done to my care since owning it.

Worst job for me was the foam cleanup in cabin blower and plenum; took the seats out and spent the better part of 2 days fixing it and buttoning everything up. Granted, it was a couple of 95 degree days that made it much worse, but I was frustrated as I recall.
My buddy wants to do it and I said wait until November. Never again.


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