Odb ii

[doridori]

I just replaced the battery for my 2002 Boxster. And now, I need to do a California Smog check. It didn't pass the ODB II.

May I know what exactly do I need to do to pass the ODB II? Do I need to complete a certain drive cycle?

Thanks

[Lapister]

Get a cheap scan tool for about $20 and look for readiness codes. 8 should go ready for Ca. If not keep driving till they do. SAI can be a tricky one that only gets checked during a cold start. Good luck.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by doridori

I just replaced the battery for my 2002 Boxster. And now, I need to do a California Smog check. It didn't pass the ODB II.

May I know what exactly do I need to do to pass the ODB II? Do I need to complete a certain drive cycle?

Thanks

If you just replaced your battery, the I/M Readiness monitors have not reset. You will need to drive the car 100-200 miles to get them to reset, and then it will pass.

[kk2002s]

You will probably need to do a variety of driving. Some stop and go, lower speed, hwy driving, stand still idling. Several Cold starts to warm up
you will need a scan tool to get a read on them.
I still can't get my SAI to complete (probably something wrong there) but here in NJ you can still pass with just 1 monitor not complete

[maytag]

Here's the drive-cycle that should kick you into "ready" mode:
Prior to starting the driving cycle ensure your Boxter has only between 1/4 and 3/4 of fuel in the gas tank. Also do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph during any portion of the drive cycle.

A. Start your Porsche Boxter and let it idle for approximately 2 1/2 minutes. This will allow the ECU to diagnose oxygen sensor aging; meaning the computer will be monitoring the oxygen sensor warm-up period and reaction to rising exhaust temperatures. During this period the ECU is also testing the Secondary Air Injection system.

B. Begin driving. Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain your speed for 3 1/2 minutes. The ECU will be testing catalytic converter efficiency.

C. Next, accelerate to 40-60 MPH. Once again maintain steady speed, this time for approximately 15 minutes. The EVAP system is now being tested along with adaptation range (2) and the oxygen sensor (switching).

D. Decelerate and come to a complete stop. If equipped with a manual transmission, idle in neutral for 3 minutes. If equipped with an automatic Tiptronic transmission, idle in drive (D) for 3 minutes. Adaptation range (2) is now being tested.

E. Repeat steps B through D. Drive cycle complete.

[Brian in Tucson]

Originally Posted by maytag

Here's the drive-cycle that should kick you into "ready" mode:
Prior to starting the driving cycle ensure your Boxter has only between 1/4 and 3/4 of fuel in the gas tank. Also do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph during any portion of the drive cycle.

A. Start your Porsche Boxter and let it idle for approximately 2 1/2 minutes. This will allow the ECU to diagnose oxygen sensor aging; meaning the computer will be monitoring the oxygen sensor warm-up period and reaction to rising exhaust temperatures. During this period the ECU is also testing the Secondary Air Injection system.

B. Begin driving. Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain your speed for 3 1/2 minutes. The ECU will be testing catalytic converter efficiency.

C. Next, accelerate to 40-60 MPH. Once again maintain steady speed, this time for approximately 15 minutes. The EVAP system is now being tested along with adaptation range (2) and the oxygen sensor (switching).

D. Decelerate and come to a complete stop. If equipped with a manual transmission, idle in neutral for 3 minutes. If equipped with an automatic Tiptronic transmission, idle in drive (D) for 3 minutes. Adaptation range (2) is now being tested.

E. Repeat steps B through D. Drive cycle complete.

Nice! Explanation.

[rexcramer]

+1 I can confirm this worked for me.

And get a lower end reader at HF or borrow one from Autozone. I always have mine plugged in when I go for a smog test. The tech then knows I know it's ready. Speeds things right along.

Originally Posted by maytag

Here's the drive-cycle that should kick you into "ready" mode:
Prior to starting the driving cycle ensure your Boxter has only between 1/4 and 3/4 of fuel in the gas tank. Also do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph during any portion of the drive cycle.

A. Start your Porsche Boxter and let it idle for approximately 2 1/2 minutes. This will allow the ECU to diagnose oxygen sensor aging; meaning the computer will be monitoring the oxygen sensor warm-up period and reaction to rising exhaust temperatures. During this period the ECU is also testing the Secondary Air Injection system.

B. Begin driving. Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain your speed for 3 1/2 minutes. The ECU will be testing catalytic converter efficiency.

C. Next, accelerate to 40-60 MPH. Once again maintain steady speed, this time for approximately 15 minutes. The EVAP system is now being tested along with adaptation range (2) and the oxygen sensor (switching).

D. Decelerate and come to a complete stop. If equipped with a manual transmission, idle in neutral for 3 minutes. If equipped with an automatic Tiptronic transmission, idle in drive (D) for 3 minutes. Adaptation range (2) is now being tested.

E. Repeat steps B through D. Drive cycle complete.

[doridori]

Hi Maytag,

Thanks a lot for your wonderful info about the drive cycle. Let me find a road that I can do it.

Some questions:

1. When I start the Boxster, does it need to be cold start? If so, how cold does it need to be?

2. When I run a ODB II test, the exact error is "p0327: Knock sensor 1 circuit low input (bank 1)". Do you think I need to replace the knock sensor also?

Thanks

Originally Posted by maytag

Here's the drive-cycle that should kick you into "ready" mode:
Prior to starting the driving cycle ensure your Boxter has only between 1/4 and 3/4 of fuel in the gas tank. Also do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph during any portion of the drive cycle.

A. Start your Porsche Boxter and let it idle for approximately 2 1/2 minutes. This will allow the ECU to diagnose oxygen sensor aging; meaning the computer will be monitoring the oxygen sensor warm-up period and reaction to rising exhaust temperatures. During this period the ECU is also testing the Secondary Air Injection system.

B. Begin driving. Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain your speed for 3 1/2 minutes. The ECU will be testing catalytic converter efficiency.

C. Next, accelerate to 40-60 MPH. Once again maintain steady speed, this time for approximately 15 minutes. The EVAP system is now being tested along with adaptation range (2) and the oxygen sensor (switching).

D. Decelerate and come to a complete stop. If equipped with a manual transmission, idle in neutral for 3 minutes. If equipped with an automatic Tiptronic transmission, idle in drive (D) for 3 minutes. Adaptation range (2) is now being tested.

E. Repeat steps B through D. Drive cycle complete.

[maytag]

Doridori, this is the first you've mentioned a code. We were all running on the understanding that your OBDII was in "not ready" mode, due to the battery change. Just simply performing a drive cycle will not solve any codes you're getting.

Have you reset the code to see if it returns? With a P0327, it's very possible your sensor is bad, but anytime you're talking about knock sensors, it's best to rule out some other variables before you just start replacing sensors.
Check the wiring to the sensor.
Check all spark plugs / coils / wires.
Check you have fresh, clean, high quality, premium fuel.
Then clear the code and see if it returns.

And yes, when you do ther drive cycle to get into ready mode, you should start cold. (First run of the day, for instance)

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

[doridori]

Hi Maytag,

When I first take the car to the smog check, the smog check report just came out "not ready". So, that's when I made the 1st post in this forum.

Yesterday, I went to an AutoZone and used their ODB II scanner to do a scan. That's how I found out about the code (p0327: Knock sensor 1 circuit low input (bank 1)).

So, seems like I have a more complicated problem than I thought.

May I know how to reset the code?

Thanks again for your wonderful help and advice. I really appreciate.

Originally Posted by maytag

Doridori, this is the first you've mentioned a code. We were all running on the understanding that your OBDII was in "not ready" mode, due to the battery change. Just simply performing a drive cycle will not solve any codes you're getting.

Have you reset the code to see if it returns? With a P0327, it's very possible your sensor is bad, but anytime you're talking about knock sensors, it's best to rule out some other variables before you just start replacing sensors.
Check the wiring to the sensor.
Check all spark plugs / coils / wires.
Check you have fresh, clean, high quality, premium fuel.
Then clear the code and see if it returns.

And yes, when you do ther drive cycle to get into ready mode, you should start cold. (First run of the day, for instance)

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

[maytag]

Doridori, you'll need a scan tool with the ability to reset the code.
Many of us use the Durametric tool, but I imagine there are other, less expensive scan tools that will reset the code.

Let me emphasize that simply resetting the code, without finding its cause, is not recommended. The code is there to tell you something; be sure you know what that is.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

[doridori]

I did at least 2 of the drive cycle (the one suggested by Maytag) and drove many extra miles. When I run an ODB II scan, it still says the Secondary Air Injection System is still "incomplete".

Any suggestion how to make the Secondary Air Injection System ready?

Thanks

[Lapister]

Last ditch effort on cold start during 90sec startup, rev to 2500-2700 and hold steady during the entire time. This works without driving car. Did it in my garage several times.

[doridori]

Hi Lapister, thanks a lot for the advice. For the cold start, how cold of the temperature it needs to be to be really considered as a cold start?

Thanks

Originally Posted by Lapister

Last ditch effort on cold start during 90sec startup, rev to 2500-2700 and hold steady during the entire time. This works without driving car. Did it in my garage several times.

[kk2002s]

I did all of these and I have yet to get my SAI to complete. Are you needing to Pass inspection?

If so check your rules as many states (NJ for me) allow 1 monitor to not complete and still pass.

I will go out on a limb and say you may have a leak, failed valve that is preventing SAI monitor from completing. Cold is pretty much first start of the day or many hours between start

There are some that found weak O2 sensors causing the issue.

I still have to deal with my SAI monitor

[911monty]

Originally Posted by doridori

Hi Lapister, thanks a lot for the advice. For the cold start, how cold of the temperature it needs to be to be really considered as a cold start?

Thanks

Per the OBDII manual: "Warm up is characterized by two specific requirements. After the engine is started, the coolant temperature must reach 160-degrees Farenheit and the ECM must see an increase of 40-degree or more in coolant temperature. If the engine is started and is already at 130-degrees that would not constitute a warm-up to the ECM".

[doridori]

Hi Lapister, thanks again for your wonderful input! I totally work for me! Now, my Secondary Air Injection is ready and I passed the smog!!!!! Very cool!!!!

Originally Posted by Lapister

Last ditch effort on cold start during 90sec startup, rev to 2500-2700 and hold steady during the entire time. This works without driving car. Did it in my garage several times.