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Old 10-24-2017, 10:10 AM   #21
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Question

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Originally Posted by GTA_G20 View Post
Personally I:

-Inflate to 50 psi
-park each tire on styrofoam squares

Carpet may work but def not concrete
Suspension should remain compressed not suspended. Do not leave your car on jack stands when winterizing
+1 and a tarp...wrapped up over wheels and exhaust

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Old 10-24-2017, 05:41 PM   #22
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I found a 1” rubber 12x12 patio stone, one under each tire, better than right on the concrete for 5 months
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Old 10-25-2017, 05:07 AM   #23
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Ciao.....

...Actually, no. I hate to admit this, but I bought these:

Welcome to LDB Auto Performance Inc. - We Know Why You Drive!!!


They are stupid expensive.

I have a unique parking situation for my car and this solution helps me with precision parking and Flat spot prevention at the same time.


I honestly can’t tell if they make a difference or not.


I live down south and drive all year long, so my car never sits longer than three weeks.

I think the carpet solution is as good as any.

Just air up the tires and don’t worry about it.

More important is to fill the tank completely with a non enthanol fuel and put some Sta-Bil in the tank and don’t fire up the engine for less than fifteen minutes at a time so you don’t contaminate the oil.

And plug a battery tender into your cigarette lighter and use the factory cutout in the door weatherstripping to route the cable.

Cheers!
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Old 10-28-2017, 08:00 PM   #24
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I inflate to 55-60 psi and park on top of plywood sheets to insulate from the concrete. Plastic sheeting underneath the car. Sta-Bil in the tank before topping off. Battery tender, desiccant packs in the interior, plastic bags rubber-banded around the tail pipes, containers of mothballs at strategic points around the exterior to keep varmints away, and a cover.

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Old 10-29-2017, 05:34 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbear61 View Post
I inflate to 55-60 psi and park on top of plywood sheets to insulate from the concrete. Plastic sheeting underneath the car. Sta-Bil in the tank before topping off. Battery tender, desiccant packs in the interior, plastic bags rubber-banded around the tail pipes, containers of mothballs at strategic points around the exterior to keep varmints away, and a cover.

DBear
Plywood sheets between tires and concrete is a new idea I can consider. Coming from Wisconsin the weather in Colorado is comparable.
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Old 10-29-2017, 10:13 AM   #26
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Hi everyone, why not disconnect the battery and trickle charge once a month (986 2002) versus battery maintainer full time?

Thx.
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Old 10-29-2017, 10:31 AM   #27
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Because...

...a high quality battery maintainer device also "conditions" the battery so it lives longer.
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Old 10-29-2017, 11:49 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Pepemcgill View Post
Hi everyone, why not disconnect the battery and trickle charge once a month (986 2002) versus battery maintainer full time?

Thx.
The major reason for buying a quality maintainer rather than a cheap trickle charger is that the electronics in a good maintainer run a desulfurization step in the charge cycle, and then keep the battery in top condition by simply letting it do its job. We store cars for customers and use only Ctek units for this reason. And these cars sit on their maintainers for months on end without any problem. We have had cars sit like this for as much as 2 years with no ill effects.

The cheap trickle charger continuously cooks the battery, actually shortening its life. In maintainers, you get what you pay for, period.
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Old 10-29-2017, 01:01 PM   #29
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+1

Maintain your battery with Ctek you must.

Sorry, but the Yoda reference from the oil filter thread got to me.

I use this one: https://www.batterystuff.com/battery-chargers/12-volt/5-10amps/ctek-56-353.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6Oeu2dyW1wIVxVt-Ch3IUAYfEAYYASABEgJe4PD_BwE

Been plugged in for months at a time.

Porsche puts their name on these. Good enough.

https://www.********************************************** ******.com/product/95504490054.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvJXdgd2W1wIVxo5-Ch2UBQtXEAQYASABEgI91PD_BwE

The one I own, in the first post, is an upgrade over the lower spec Porsche branded one in the second post.

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Old 11-10-2017, 09:12 AM   #30
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I've had the car stored longer that just a winter over the last 10 yrs and all you need to do is raise pressure to 45-50 psi. Flat spots will smooth out after several miles of driving when you bring pressure back down.
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:32 AM   #31
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I'm rising the pressure to 50 PSI and let it sleep for 6 months....
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Old 11-11-2017, 07:40 AM   #32
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Set tire pressure to 60 psi and put wheels on styrofoam

Excellent results with 4 styrofoam plates 1.5 in thick during winter sleep.
Prior to roll the Boxster onto the plates I pump the tires to 60 psi.
When starting up in spring, reduce the pressure back to normal and you will drive away with perfectly "round" wheels.
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Last edited by Boxster-Tiptronic; 11-12-2017 at 04:08 AM.
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Old 11-11-2017, 09:37 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxster-Tiptronic View Post
Excellent results with 4 styrofoam plates 1.5 in thick during winter sleep.
Prior to roll the Boxster onto the plates I pump the tires to 60 psi.
When starting up in spring, reduce the pressure back to normal and you will drive away with perfectly "round" wheels.
Best Cost Effective solution seen!
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Old 11-11-2017, 11:46 AM   #34
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Bently owners manual says to inflate all tires to 50 psi if car will be parked more than a week.

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