01-12-2015, 08:37 AM
|
#1
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 18
|
Just curious as to whether or not it had been done before. Completed new rms and Ims install along with new flywheel, clutch and pressure plate that will be going on today..
Also check out the old clutch.
Haven't driven the car yet, it needed a new clutch upon purchase.
|
|
|
01-12-2015, 09:43 AM
|
#2
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tacoma
Posts: 429
|
Not sure why you're in there. That clutch has at least another 20 yards in it.
|
|
|
01-12-2015, 10:09 AM
|
#3
|
|
On the slippery slope
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Austin and Palm Springs
Posts: 3,799
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by flaps10
Not sure why you're in there. That clutch has at least another 20 yards in it.
|
sorry Flaps, you are wrong
At least 25 yards, especially if coasting downhill
__________________
2004 Boxster S 6 speed - DRL relay hack, Polaris AutoTop DIY
2004 996 Targa Tip
Instructor - San Diego region
2014 Porsche Performance Driving School
2020 BMW X3, 2013 Ram 1500, 2016 Cmax, 2004 F-150 "Big Red"
|
|
|
01-12-2015, 04:02 PM
|
#4
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Ranson wv
Posts: 237
|
That had to be chattering like crazy.
__________________
02 Boxster
71 VW Karmann Ghia
71 VW Super Beetle
|
|
|
01-26-2015, 09:06 AM
|
#5
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: California
Posts: 246
|
James and Team,
Any suggestions on how to remove a stuck IMS Bearing cover? See attached pic. There was no oil leaking but the cover is a bit rusted and not budging with a set of flat screw drivers. As you can see I most likely have IMS bearing issues as the nut and part of the bolt have fallen off.
Since I don't have the tool for removing the cover that the Porsche technicians have I have to devise something to help me remove the cover to get to the bearing...
Any help will be much appreciated.
PS. I have also posted this request in the TX removal thread that I was part of as I had asked the question on how tight the TX bolts can be expected to be. Got the TX out without any damage...now the cover...one small step at a time...
|
|
|
01-26-2015, 09:53 AM
|
#6
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tacoma
Posts: 429
|
I might remove the three bolts holding the cover on. Probably speed things up quite a bit
|
|
|
01-26-2015, 09:55 AM
|
#7
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: California
Posts: 246
|
...Removing the cover after removing the star bolts of course... 
|
|
|
01-26-2015, 11:45 AM
|
#8
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,649
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by PorscheFan5
...Removing the cover after removing the star bolts of course...  
|
OK, after all that has gone on with bad IMS replacements lately, I have to ask: You do have the engine at TDC, cams locked down, and the tensioners removed before starting this?
__________________
“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
|
|
|
01-26-2015, 10:45 AM
|
#9
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: California
Posts: 246
|
Thanks Spendy.
Looking at another picture posted by nmdarby that was my exact thought today morning. Will try that. It seems the surface is flat so twisting it in its vertical plane will at least break it loose and also then provide me with a surface to get the screw drivers under to pry it off.
|
|
|
01-26-2015, 02:48 PM
|
#10
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: California
Posts: 246
|
Ah. Thanks JFP. Will get the tools asap.
I did remove the sump and did find small metal particles in the sump.
|
|
|
01-26-2015, 03:30 PM
|
#11
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,649
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by PorscheFan5
Ah. Thanks JFP. Will get the tools asap.
I did remove the sump and did find small metal particles in the sump.

|
If the metal in the sump is ferrous (can be picked up by a magnet), that engine is no longer a viable candidate for an IMS update. If there is ferrous grit in the sump, it is also elsewhere in the engine and will circulate with the oil, killing your new $600+ bearing.
Either plan on doing a total rebuild, or source a replacement.
__________________
“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
|
|
|
01-29-2015, 03:02 PM
|
#12
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: California
Posts: 246
|
Hi JFP,
Thanks for posting that pic. Yes, the tensioner on both sides are missing that means. In the weekend I will check around more.
For my electric conversion project I have to remove the engine so I am not taking any detours. I just want to take one step at a time on the engine. At this time I want to see what the bearing looks like and go from there. Once I remove the IMSB flange I will know better. This Cam cover thing is what I just observed as things are more clearer now that all the parts in the rear are off and I am getting more familiar with the parts...
I have also put in a call to the technician at the dealership who worked on the car. Let's see if he calls back tomorrow and I can ask him what he found when he removed the Cams...
|
|
|
01-29-2015, 05:27 PM
|
#13
|
|
Beginner
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,659
|
from what I can see in photo 3 that is not a missing chain tensioner. The engine is symmetrical up to the point of casting in bosses that are machined on one side and not the other. The boss in picture 3 is on the right head and doesn't do anything. The same boss on the left head is machined and has a chain tensioner in it,
__________________
2003 S manual
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:01 PM.
| |