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Old 06-30-2014, 06:47 AM   #1
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dghii,

So you are thinking that even though the alternator and regulator passed the tests at the local pepboys with flying colors, that could be the case? Their tests are not always accurate?

Jager,
I bought one of those battery/charging system testers from the auto parts store and with the car running on idle when I clamp the positive and negative, it comes up to around 13.4 or so(which is labeled in red on th meter. Green is above 14V). There is a load button on the tester also, when I push that, it drops to 12 V(slightly above maybe). Does that make sense?

I will post pictures when I get home tonight so it's clearer if I'm not able to explain it correctly.
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Old 06-30-2014, 01:45 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by amitmishra4 View Post
dghii,

So you are thinking that even though the alternator and regulator passed the tests at the local pepboys with flying colors, that could be the case? Their tests are not always accurate?

Jager,
I bought one of those battery/charging system testers from the auto parts store and with the car running on idle when I clamp the positive and negative, it comes up to around 13.4 or so(which is labeled in red on th meter. Green is above 14V). There is a load button on the tester also, when I push that, it drops to 12 V(slightly above maybe). Does that make sense?

I will post pictures when I get home tonight so it's clearer if I'm not able to explain it correctly.
Yes it does make sense, the voltage is a little low. What are your results when you connect your tester (-) side to the chassis (ground point) and (+) to the positive side of the battery and perform a load test?
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