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Old 05-06-2014, 10:33 AM   #1
tdc
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Newbie first interduction and questions regarding a 2000 Boxer

First and foremost team, I just wanted to thank you all for your time and support upfront. I know that there is a huge wealth of information here and a lot of really caring individuals. From an outsiders prospective its extremely Appreciative

Anyway team!
Yes anther newbie here and like most newbies, I’ve spent my time in shadows trying to learn as much as possible from as many resources as possible over the last few months. I finally think I have a pretty good understanding on most of the shortcomings of the 986 and I have finally gained enough basic knowledge and understanding of this car to join the team.

Quick background on me:
Dad 48 yrs. young! – Two teen kids (boy and girl) and the same wife for 24 years. So yeah, I like abuse! Hahaaa

I’ve been a construction manager for 23 years, but I’ve been wrenching on cars my whole life, I’ve restored a few muscle cars and have a garage full of tools (but not specialty tools), so I’m hoping that I’ll be able to work on my Porsche myself. I’m not afraid of getting dirty and I like to learn new things.

Of course the “goal” is to find that gem in the rough. Well aaaaaahh, that is to sayyyyyyy, thaaaaaat aaaa I think I finally found something that has really caught my eye team! and I really wanted to hear what the team thinks.

I’ve driven several other 986 but I haven’t seen or driven this one yet! All information I have on the car is coming from the owner!.

It’s a 2000 boxer 986
120k miles
2004 headlights
dvd navi 7" stereo
$11,000

The engine was (last month) completely rebuilt from an independent Porsche specialist, not the dealer. All of the parts were ordered from the Porsche dealer and that the shop dyno the engine before installation. Yes this also included the installation of a new water pump & clutch kit. In total just over $9,500 was spent on the car within the last month. All with verifiable receipts and yes I’ll be calling the shop

The tires and breaks are at approx. 75%,the top works perfect and that everything works as expected.

I was also informed that the control arm rubbers are old and that they make a little noises on the bumps but it’s not necessary to replace them. ??????
He is the second ower and has no past history on the car, car fax report comes up clean (for what its worth)


Last edited by tdc; 05-06-2014 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 05-06-2014, 10:34 AM   #2
tdc
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Here’s the pictures I received:
















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Old 05-06-2014, 10:49 AM   #3
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Welcome to the forum. I have had my 2001 Box base for three years now and the 2000 Box base has the same engine. My feeling is that the lower the miles the better. I bought mine with 30k miles and now has 40k miles. I believe that the lower the mileage the less the wear on the accessories.

However I notice that some accessories have been replaced. I have had installed the IMS Guardian. Some would say that the lower miles on the engine has the greater chance of IMS failure.

120 k miles is pretty high but some owners here have 200k miles on theirs. Get a good PPI done if you consider this one. Verify the year of manuf, mileage and work done. Receipts? Do not be in a hurry to buy one. Try as many as possible to know what normal noises are and what are not. Before u start the engine make sure all warning lites light up particularly the CEL one.

If it needs work be prepared to wrench on it or pay somebody to do it. It is a fun car.
Sometimes I wish it had the occasional back seats like the 911 but then it would not be a Boxster. Enjoy your search and try and be patient.

I have been very fortunate in that I have not spent too many $$$ on mine in the last 3 years. CV joints, Ims guardian, tires etc . Cheers, Guy
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Old 05-06-2014, 11:15 AM   #4
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With a rebuilt engine you should be in good shape but you should look carefully at other things that tend to wear out on a 14 year old car.

Like bushings, bearings, suspension, deteriorating hoses, the top and window etc.

The price is decent and I would budget 2k per year to keep things working as they should.

The Boxster is surprisingly not that hard a car to work on DIY. Most common things don't require special tools and if you do need something special, you should ask around as there is likely someone reasonably close by that can loan you what you need.

Take the plunge and drive it lots, the benefits to cost ratio will leave you smiling.
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Old 05-06-2014, 12:09 PM   #5
tdc
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Hey guys, thank you for the comments.. I have several pics that I treid to post up several times but they need to be approved first! so please get them approved mods..

in the mean time.


Here are my questions / concerns to the team.

Is it safe to assume that if the engine was properly rebuilt that I’ll be able to get another 100k out of her?

Is it safe to assume that with the miles it has all of the little (nickel and dime stuff) has been replaced ie Mass flow sensor, oxg sensors, coolant tank, etc have all been replaced? If not what should I look for? Will there be any tell tail signs other than OBD codes?

Where should I be looking for coolant leaks?

Where should I be looking to make sure that all water channels are clear? I’ve read some horror stories about electrical problems due to clogged water passages and the fact that the computer is under the seat.

It’s a five speed manual trans that has had no work performed on it that is known, what concerns should I have regarding the transmission? I’ve read mostly good things about the manuals being strong and well built. Can you verify this please?

The top mechanically may work great but from the pic’s above I looks like the back plastic window will need to be replaced soon. Does this require a new top or just the back window area? Any budget numbers to address this??

Is it safe to assume that since there is noise coming from the control arm that they will need to be replaced, or is this still a viable sheep fix with new rubber? Or is it like the owners says, no worries! Would I feel this in the steering wheel ie shake / vib ??

So what am I missing team?


For what its worth!
I’ve been doing tons of research and I know / have found and drove several 986 boxers that are cheaper than this one, Heck, there’s a 2002 S for 12k 25 miles away, but it has 107 miles and has never had any real work done to it, there are plenty of 98-2002 under 11k here in Los Angeles miles very form 48k-130k, but again most with no major work performed. Thanks to this place I’m now really shy of lower miles 986’s lol. Again there’s a 1999 with 77k for 8500 but it has no service records!. I think I better off spending the money on one that was just reworked right?? Ahhhaaaa..

Anyway, thank you all for your time team, I’m looking forward to reading what your thoughts and advise are..
Tdc.
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Old 05-06-2014, 04:11 PM   #6
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Just keep looking for a Boxster in your price range that has receipts the seller is willing to show you. If they can't supply receipts just walk. Consider private sales as they should be more than willing to show receipts as there are not the privacy issues with a used car dealer.
.
Don't get fixated on one Boxster trying to make it acceptable. You need to do due diligence and really work on getting one from a person that is honest. If you buy a fixer upper you will be spending $$$$ and your labor or somebody else to get it fixed right. Patience is key. Get a PPI done on one you like. There is no guarantee with any used car that it will run flawlessly after you have bought it.

Perhaps there is a 986 forum member in your area that can assist you. G.
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Old 05-07-2014, 03:27 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdc View Post
Is it safe to assume that if the engine was properly rebuilt that I’ll be able to get another 100k out of her?
personally i would not assume one way or the other. be prepared for no, live for yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdc View Post
Is it safe to assume that with the miles it has all of the little (nickel and dime stuff) has been replaced ie Mass flow sensor, oxg sensors, coolant tank, etc have all been replaced? If not what should I look for? Will there be any tell tail signs other than OBD codes?
definitely not. some people will replace things before they show problems, some people replace things only when the car stops working. get receipts / details of what has been done and work backwards to know what hasn't been done.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdc View Post
Where should I be looking for coolant leaks?
under the car. near the radiators if it's been scraped on curbs / parking bumpers. near the rear passenger tire and pull up the carpet in the trunk. look for crust / coolant.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdc View Post
Where should I be looking to make sure that all water channels are clear? I’ve read some horror stories about electrical problems due to clogged water passages and the fact that the computer is under the seat.
look / smell under the seats.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdc View Post
It’s a five speed manual trans that has had no work performed on it that is known, what concerns should I have regarding the transmission? I’ve read mostly good things about the manuals being strong and well built. Can you verify this please?
i have a TIP...

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdc View Post
The top mechanically may work great but from the pic’s above I looks like the back plastic window will need to be replaced soon. Does this require a new top or just the back window area? Any budget numbers to address this??
it is possible to sew in a new plastic window to the original top. several members have done it. i think the vinyl will cost around $100, you can sew it yourself or take it to a shop. $0 - $500. i replaced my top with a GAHH. parts + install, ~$1500.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdc View Post
Is it safe to assume that since there is noise coming from the control arm that they will need to be replaced, or is this still a viable sheep fix with new rubber? Or is it like the owners says, no worries! Would I feel this in the steering wheel ie shake / vib ??
mine only made noise. no shake / shimmy / vibration.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdc View Post
So what am I missing team?
a PPI


i bought my '01 in '09 with 65k miles. it's at 106k miles now with a few repairs - alternator, water pump, AOS, control arm, strut mount, engine mount, coolant reservoir.

i've spent close to $9000 in the 5 years since i owned it (including regular maintenance like tires, brakes, oil changes, etc) and non-required items (headlight and new top). i think i'm probably on the lower end of the "cost of ownership" curve. i do my own basic stuff - oil changes, belts, plugs, etc.
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Last edited by tonycarreon; 05-07-2014 at 03:30 AM.
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Old 05-07-2014, 05:31 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonycarreon View Post
personally i would not assume one way or the other. be prepared for no, live for yes.


definitely not. some people will replace things before they show problems, some people replace things only when the car stops working. get receipts / details of what has been done and work backwards to know what hasn't been done.


under the car. near the radiators if it's been scraped on curbs / parking bumpers. near the rear passenger tire and pull up the carpet in the trunk. look for crust / coolant.


look / smell under the seats.


i have a TIP...


it is possible to sew in a new plastic window to the original top. several members have done it. i think the vinyl will cost around $100, you can sew it yourself or take it to a shop. $0 - $500. i replaced my top with a GAHH. parts + install, ~$1500.


mine only made noise. no shake / shimmy / vibration.


a PPI


i bought my '01 in '09 with 65k miles. it's at 106k miles now with a few repairs - alternator, water pump, AOS, control arm, strut mount, engine mount, coolant reservoir.

i've spent close to $9000 in the 5 years since i owned it (including regular maintenance like tires, brakes, oil changes, etc) and non-required items (headlight and new top). i think i'm probably on the lower end of the "cost of ownership" curve. i do my own basic stuff - oil changes, belts, plugs, etc.
Well said Tony. It's members like you that make this forum great. G.

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