Spring start-up after winter storage???

[Lil bastard]

Originally Posted by Mike_Yi

Something else that is very important is to prime the engine. It's been sitting for months. Where do you think the oil is right now? On the rings? Nope. It's all in the sump.

So what you do is disconnect the coil(s) and crank it until you get a normal oil pressure reading. Unfortunately, in this car there isn't an oil pressure gauge. So you'll just have to crank it for a bit. Anything is better than just firing it up. In my Firehawk, it generally takes about 10-15 seconds of cranking to get a normal oil pressure. Since you don't have a gauge, and this motor is not a GM v-8, I'd crank it for 20-30 seconds to be sure. Then, reconnect the coil(s) and fire her up.

By disconnecting the coil, you will be preventing combustion. This will prevent putting a lot of pressure against the piston while there is no oil in the engine.

Of course, the best way to prime the engine is with a primer. On GM V-8s, you can remove the distributor (which is driven by a gear off the oil pump) and use a special tool on a drill which will spin the oil pump. I don't know if there is a way to do that on the Boxster.

Mike,

What you suggest would be an excellent procedure if you could power the oil pump externally via a power drill to charge the oil galleries and pressurize the system to float the internals such as the GM small block you describe, I've had some Brit cars where you could do this as well. And then there is an electric pre-luber system which does the same thing using an electric powered pump.

But for the Boxster it's not such a good idea.

Think about it... what you're describing is turning the motor dry on the battery/starter motor in order to avoid turning the motor dry via combustion. While that may sound same-same, it really isn't.

The starter motor operates at a set RPM, much lower than idle and much lower than necessary for the oil pump to achieve maximum pressure/flow. Cranking it on the starter means you have to crank it dry longer than if you had the engine running to charge and pressurize the system, if you even achieve that at all on the starter.

Not only that, but on the Boxster there isn't a single coil... there are 6 individual coilpaks, inaccessible except from underneath, making what you describe a very cumbersome procedure.

Nope, for the Boxster, I'd say once you know everything is loose and not binding by manually rotating the drivetrain, start the car right up.

Cheers!

[willd]

I can see where you're coming from Mike_yi, but I thought the moment the engine is turning, whilst not at ideal pressure, it will still be pumping oil to the essential areas....... Otherwise, a car like the TVR I used to have would have done some serious damage, the pressure didn't go up to optimum for about five minutes?

Lil Bast, thanks for the fuel info, and sorry for micro-stealing some of this thread Boxsternut

[stephen wilson]

I have a related question, after letting my 06 sit for a month or so, the oil level showed high when I went to start it for the first time. After that first start, the level read fine. I've let the car sit for a week or two, and this didn't happen. Oil drain-back, moisture, thoughts?
Thanks,
Steve

[boxsternut]

Wow.....I'm glad my 3.5L Honda V6 isn't that fussy! I'm going to stick with the moving 10 feet in 5th and refueling a few times to dilute the tank. Anything special with the tires besides bringing back down to normal inflation? Thanks again!

[carguy]

Wow that sounds like a lot of work. I really don't think all that is necessary, at least not for Toronto. I "stored" my car from early December to early March. That's 3 months. I drove the car twice in that time, thus every 4 weeks, for 20 km or so just to keep it loose, overinflated tires a bit (40 psi), and kept the tank full to prevent condensation. Other than that, when I pulled it out of "storage" last week, I just adjusted tire pressure, started it (it always fires up immediately, no battery charging needed), and drove.

If you are leaving the car untouched for 6 months or more, maybe more precautions are required. But if it is stored indoors and driven every 4 weeks or so for 3 months, I don't think there is cause for more.

[boxsternut]

Carguy,
Are you out now for the season? I thought about it last weekend with the nice weather and all, but will be in the Caribbean next week (March Break). Can't wait to get it back on the road. We're up in Caledon, and even though the snow is mostly gone, the roads have all heaved and it wouldn't make a smooth ride yet. How is it by you in T.O.? My brother-in-law lives in the Yonge/York Mills area (Hogs Hollow) and hasn't brought his 911 out yet either.

[carguy]

Yes, I am out for the season as of last Thursday, been driving it every day given the great weather, though now looks like rain for next few days. Already gotten new front engine put in, as well as put new tires on. Mild winter was easy on the roads, and there what little snow there was in a few piles from that one "storm" we had is long gone. From now on if it's not raining (and sometimes even if it is) the P car rides!

Enjoy your vacation..

[cvhs18472]

Woke the Car up yesterday the same way I always do, Take, the cover off, unplug the battery tender, turn the key on and wait to prime the fuel system and start it up. It always starts first time. As far as all the oiling stuff, what difference is there in a nap startup and an oil change startup. There is no oil in the galleys and a lot of people don't even fill the oil filter( I do). I don't know if 3 or 4 months is long enough to remove all oil film from the engine. If I am doing bad things to my car I would like to know. Maybe Jake Raby would take time to chime in on this. Besides all of this, cleaned the wheels, washed her and took the wife for about a 100 miles round trip run for wings. Wing night and all. Spring is here. Ed

[dennis]

wonder if you over service the oil to let sit then drain same amt when ready to start? Kind of a pain but might keep engine well lubricated??

[clickman]

I tried pushing the car forward in 5th last spring and just about had a hernia. Couldn't get it to move. Yes, the brake was off. Need more Wheaties I guess.

[Bobiam]

Don't overthink this thing.

[Joe B]

Originally Posted by Bobiam

Don't overthink this thing.

+1. Just turn the key!

[Jaak]

Have a 02 tip ... make sure the tire pressure is correct, oil level is good and battery is charged or has a fair charge. Start it up (which may take a few seconds) and let it idle for a bit. Need to ensure the oil has flowed for a bit and let it get to operating temp to burn off the water in the crank. Take it easy for a bit as you drive to the gas station to fill up on fresh gas. Tap the brakes a few times to ensure any rust has been removed and they will stop the car. Once it has fresh gas, go for a nice cruise foa a bit to awaken the car. Try not to drive it hard for a hour or so.

What I usually do is connect a battery charger and run it till the battery is 100% charged ... have a "inteligent" version. I have done this for over 11 years with my earlier 951 and for two years with the Beepster. May pull it out this weekend ...

[McDuff]

Thanks guys, appreciate the input. I had it serviced just before storage, even changed tranny fluid. Had trickle charger on it all winter, and did the steel wool in the tail pipe, pumped tires, even put a pan with charcoal in passenger area to absorb moisture! All ideas that came from this web site.

I will do as you suggest, turn the key and let it warm up. I just saw the comments regarding the oil being totally trained to the lower pan, and dry pistons, and did not want to launch the motor before I really got to drive it. Sounds like maybe overkill.

It's a 99 as I said, with 30,00 miles, gray on gray, and I am excited and get going. We live in cold weather also (Michigan), so we get about 5 months use, and it is about to start.

Thanks again for your input!

McDuff