Porsche Approved Oil List

[Paul]

Charles I have attended one of your seminars and I have sent you one of my UOAs (at your request) that clearly showed that 11,000 miles and 17 months of use of M1 0w-40 was fine.

[cnavarro]

Sorry Paul, not trying to single you out. Just I get a lot of phone calls re: M1.

Most definitely Paul, your results showed that the 2 yr, 12,000 mi drain interval is certainly doable. I just had another sample of Pentosin 5w40 with 2 years and 7,000 mi still had a TBN of 7.2 (started at 10), with wear levels the lowest I've ever seen from an M96 engine (5w40, SL rated). Driving styles and habits clearly affect drain intervals, no argument there.

I myself have observed a 5,000 mi interval (with changes approximately every 6 months) gets me to a TBN of just under 5, which to some, is the sweet spot of when to change your oil. That's with mixed driving including short drives where the oil isn't given a chance to get hot enough to vapor off the water content. Winter driving also seems to reduce TBN faster and yield increased wear levels. Cars that aren't driven in the winter aren't subjected to the demands placed on the lubricant that otherwise a year round car might see.

Also, forgot to add, oil formulation has a great deal to do with drain interval too. Oils with less Zn and P will form less acid, allowing longer drain intervals. Secondly, the majority of oils, M1 included, use primarily a Ca-based detergent, that is more thermally stable and maintains TBN better, allowing for further longer drain intervals. A lot of the oils I personally like, due to formulation, would require shorter drain intervals accordingly. Good example of how this affects drain interval is Valvoline NSL Racing - they recommend a 600 mi drain interval on a 5 qt capacity, which I've verified through UOA, adjusting drain interval for increased volume.

[Flavor 987S]

Charles, there are 2 additional things I have also learned from your web site:

1) Oil filter changes 1/2 way through the oil drain interval

2) Always change the oil after the use of a fuel system cleaners like Chevron's with Techron

Can you please comment a little more about these recommendations, as to why you make these suggestions? Thanks!

Lastly, what is your opinion of Mobil's 5W50??

[Brucelee]

I used to use M1 exclusively in all my vehicles. Then, they started to get cagey about whether they really were selling a true syn oil. Many (including me) believe they now sell a hydro-cracked version under the M1 brand, rather than the Group 4 formula they had been selling.

Hence, I moved to Red Line.

Who knows the truth or if there is a "truth."

[ChefCarnivore]

I seems like the oil for a 97 boxster has been a moving target as forulations change. What would be the present recommendation for a 97 boxster with 100,000 miles on it?
This would be the first oil change since I bought it.

Thanks for all who respond.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by ChefCarnivore

I seems like the oil for a 97 boxster has been a moving target as forulations change. What would be the present recommendation for a 97 boxster with 100,000 miles on it?
This would be the first oil change since I bought it.

Thanks for all who respond.

Consider a quality 10W-40 full synthetic with ACEA A3, B3, B4 ratings like Castrol Syntec.

[Bob O]

I'm also currently using Castrol 5W40 (in an 01 base with 65K on it). I change somewhere between every 5000 and 7500 miles and take it to the track several times a year.

JFP....Would you recommend year round Castrol 10w40 for a car that gets regularly driven in the winter in temps sometimes below O deg F (excluding this last mild winter). Based on your recommendation above my next change (next month) will probably be Castrol 10w40, so I'm curious if I should continue to use it during the winter or go to the 5w40 for the cold weather.

Thanks

Bob

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Brucelee

I used to use M1 exclusively in all my vehicles. Then, they started to get cagey about whether they really were selling a true syn oil. Many (including me) believe they now sell a hydro-cracked version under the M1 brand, rather than the Group 4 formula they had been selling.

Hence, I moved to Red Line.

Who knows the truth or if there is a "truth."

Major draw back I have with Red Line oils is their lack of ACEA ratings (I've learned not to trust API since it switched from being a specification watchdog to a public relations arm of the industry); although I'll give Red Line credit for admitting it, unlike other brands such as RP, who have gotten caught more than once playing games with what ratings they hold...............

[941MXVET]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Major draw back I have with Red Line oils is their lack of ACEA ratings (I've learned not to trust API since it switched from being a specification watchdog to a public relations arm of the industry); although I'll give Red Line credit for admitting it, unlike other brands such as RP, who have gotten caught more than once playing games with what ratings they hold...............

I'm currently switching most of my cars over to Redline. I don't think it's fiscally prudent for a small nieche oil company to pursue gov. ratings as I imagine the costs associated with obtaining the rating would out weigh the bennefit of having it.

[vath2001]

Originally Posted by 941MXVET

I'm currently switching most of my cars over to Redline. I don't think it's fiscally prudent for a small nieche oil company to pursue gov. ratings as I imagine the costs associated with obtaining the rating would out weigh the bennefit of having it.

Interesting point of view with regard to the Gov ratings. However, without the independent rating organization to verify the process and standards of the product ... Red Line is not held to anything... just their good name.

I am a believer in the Ratings.