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Old 04-10-2020, 03:13 PM   #1
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Well, I just gotta say that I thought that getting the engine to fit in the 986 was going to be the challenge... BOY was I wrong. That was super easy compared to making a draw through M90!! But its done now





^^^ That's the 4.3's LIM




^^^ that is a 3/4" chunk of aluminium that has holes drilled in it.




^^^ there is the blower with a spread bore/square bore plate bolted to it.
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Old 06-11-2020, 07:42 AM   #2
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Love this thread, don't know why I took so long to start reading it. Look forward to reading more, you've got some great skills!
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Old 06-11-2020, 09:18 AM   #3
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It`s coming along nicely! What`s wrong with the original gas tank?
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Old 06-11-2020, 02:49 PM   #4
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It`s coming along nicely! What`s wrong with the original gas tank?
Nothing... but it don't hold propane LOL

This is gonna be a duel fuel machine. LP and gasoline. I figure I've already got a super tall engine; why not make it taller with an LP mixer.


Got some new brake hoses in the mail... and installed them




^^^ don't think the old ones were bad, but I'd rather not risk a caliper over 20 mins worth of work.
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Old 06-17-2020, 03:56 PM   #5
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New struts and mounts came in today. The old ones.... well they weren't doing ANY dampening at all.


Also, I got some new control arms. Man, this thing is gonna handle like OEM.
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Old 06-27-2020, 04:27 PM   #6
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Due to my grey interior I can't really paint the car BR green (or in the Porsche world Irish green). Wimbledon green was the runner up, but lately I've been thinking its too much effort to color change a car and not get the color I want. SO I've settled on just a simple re-spray of the silver paint. Because of this I've decided to paint my turbo twist wheels "cliché black".

They came out alright. There was a small issue with the base fish eying, but I think I nabbed it and hid it under the clear.





Still just waiting for the machine shop... If I get more body work done before the machine shop finishes I think I'm just gonna pull a random 4.3 block from the junk yard and slap it in there.
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Old 07-18-2020, 05:43 PM   #7
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No pro but we cut it on a metal shear, bend on a brake. Use wood or cement drill bits and tape before. Main use for me is making machinery guards. Ymmv...
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Old 07-18-2020, 06:51 PM   #8
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No pro but we cut it on a metal shear, bend on a brake. Use wood or cement drill bits and tape before. Main use for me is making machinery guards. Ymmv...
Should I keep the protective wax paper stuff on while I'm cutting or should I pull it off and tape the lines I need to cut?


Fortunately other than a weird contouring cut along the roof line I don't think I'm gonna have to bend it at all. I also got special plexi drill bits. I'm excited to learn a new fab skill.
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Old 07-19-2020, 02:01 AM   #9
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Keep the protective film/paper/plastic on until you’re ready to install to keep it from getting scratched up. Use tape if it’s bare. Go slow with the drill and blades.
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Old 07-19-2020, 02:03 AM   #10
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You can spray the plexi with ice water if it starts to melt or overheat when your cutting. Keeping it cool helps keep the blade clear of melted acrylic. I found higher speed worked better (i was using a dremel). I left the wax paper on last time (helps stop scratches while your sliding it around to cut it.) I also tape the edge where I'm cutting.

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Old 07-28-2020, 03:26 PM   #11
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Oh the paint and body... I do not like body work; But I enjoy a good sharp paint and body car. But I DO NOT LIKE TO DO IT. Oh well do it mostly right and I should only have to do it once every 10 years or so.

Still got some wet sanding to do but for the most part pretty good.








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Old 07-29-2020, 07:31 AM   #12
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Wait...what...Z-ART Top?
JB...
JBeeeeeeeeeeee...look!


Did you get the full package, nuts, windows, seals, etc...?
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Old 07-29-2020, 04:07 PM   #13
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Wait...what...Z-ART Top?
JB...
JBeeeeeeeeeeee...look!


Did you get the full package, nuts, windows, seals, etc...?
Second hand top

Dude who sold it to me didn't have the hatch struts though.


I'm about 100% certain I'm going to keep the stock rear deck lid and make some louvers for the engine cover.
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Old 08-01-2020, 03:52 PM   #14
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Louvers?? Obviously not yet fitted. And I'll only be able to use them when I don't have the rear hatch on the car.







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Old 08-01-2020, 08:28 PM   #15
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Louvers?? Obviously not yet fitted. And I'll only be able to use them when I don't have the rear hatch on the car.







Looking forward to seeing how this turns out. The louvers should give the Boxster a pretty aggressive look.
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Old 08-02-2020, 05:43 AM   #16
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the Z-TOP needs a ZWEITE ENTWICKLUNG in the first place
I could think of two versions:
a.) Hatch window needs to be cut (not a good idea) and its frame permanently attached to the top. Rear deck lid with small window needs to be separated...rain water still needs to be adressed

b.) Keep the window size, attach it permanently to the top and build new hinges for the rear deck lid, that would slightly move it around the window, when opened. Rain water still needs to be adressed

plan b would be interesting although the window would reach into the accessible trunk space.
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Old 08-02-2020, 02:57 PM   #17
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the Z-TOP needs a ZWEITE ENTWICKLUNG in the first place
I could think of two versions:
a.) Hatch window needs to be cut (not a good idea) and its frame permanently attached to the top. Rear deck lid with small window needs to be separated...rain water still needs to be adressed
b.) Keep the window size, attach it permanently to the top and build new hinges for the rear deck lid, that would slightly move it around the window, when opened. Rain water still needs to be adressed
plan b would be interesting although the window would reach into the accessible trunk space.

haha.. I understand the confusion.

I'm not using the supplied hatch when I use the louvers. I might use the hatch sometimes.

The factory stock rear trunk lid fits with the top in place. That's what I'm gonna use when I don't want the rear hatch.

I do plan on making a flat bar "hatch" to support the louvers that will bolt to the existing hinge that the Z-top uses.


Rain water. I'm making a bulkhead that separates me from the engine and the rear of the car. That will permanently make this car a coupe; one step shy of just glassing the top to the body. So the only rainwater is gonna be that which hits the engine. Using the supplied hatch will eliminate this all together and using louvers will mitigate it.
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Old 08-03-2020, 08:57 AM   #18
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Yeah, Louvers kinda mess up the lines, but it does show off the engine.




The hatch looks smoother. Probably gonna be a 50/50 split. sometimes on sometimes not.




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Old 08-06-2020, 05:53 PM   #19
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Oh man the wire fish. I was not looking forward to this. Fortunately, someone left a wire in the tube; so I just had to pull it through.




ALSO, in a double whammy post. I had to replace the lights; the old ones burned out. I just used some LED stick on lights. Actually came out pretty perfect.
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Old 08-14-2020, 05:41 PM   #20
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Here we go... The rear bulkhead is getting mocked up right nice.

I think I'm gonna use some of that angle iron with holes in it to make the face detachable for service. But time will tell which is the best way to do it.

Fortunately cause the hood that came with the car was trash I've got tons of spare steel to make this thing out of. and its PURE steel from Finland.









Paint is coming out pretty good, but its like fighting me every step of the way. I've had more problems with this paint job than all the other paint jobs I've ever done before collectively.


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