Blue boxster resurrection project - Page 3 - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

Ottomotion · 01-06-2019, 01:54 PM

Excellent information....

Homeoboxter · 01-07-2019, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ottomotion

Excellent information....

Thanks, Otto!

Ottomotion · 12-18-2018, 06:28 AM

Excellent!
Used egg cartons work great for keeping those lifters from getting mixed up....

Got my head back on and other side comes off by the weekend....

Homeoboxter · 12-18-2018, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ottomotion

Excellent!
Used egg cartons work great for keeping those lifters from getting mixed up....

Got my head back on and other side comes off by the weekend....

Nice! I think I`ll have some time to reassemble the heads too, just received the new seals. Using egg cartons sound like a smart idea

Homeoboxter · 12-30-2018, 01:46 PM

During the holidays I had some time to work on the heads. The valves and seats needed a little resurfacing, so I added some grinding material on the valves and started the procedure with a conventional lapper.

I shortly realized this would take forever for all the 24 valves, so I looked for a somewhat quicker solution and I came out with this super-special tool using a piece of fuel line from my motorbike and a few hose clamps:

About 30 sec spin for each valve does the trick. Make sure you lube the valve guides before doing this.

Before/after conditions:

After another thorough shower in the sink the head is ready for reassembly with new seals.

Homeoboxter · 12-30-2018, 01:48 PM

One side done.

Smallblock454 · 01-07-2019, 12:09 AM

No, because when you drive the car there is no constant oil level in the engine (acceleration, braking, corners). The oil is swapping around in the engine oil pan and in the engine. And the hotter the oil is, the more it swaps, because of the lower viscosity. Also when the engine runs oils level is also not constant, because the oil pump circulates the oil and the oil is also "splashed around" (maybe there is a better term for that in english) in the engine.

Regards from Germany,
Markus

Homeoboxter · 01-07-2019, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smallblock454

No, because when you drive the car there is no constant oil level in the engine (acceleration, braking, corners). The oil is swapping around in the engine oil pan and in the engine. And the hotter the oil is, the more it swaps, because of the lower viscosity. Also when the engine runs oils level is also not constant, because the oil pump circulates the oil and the oil is also "splashed around" (maybe there is a better term for that in english) in the engine.

Regards from Germany,
Markus

Hey Marcus,

Thanks for your comment! This is a show&tell thread, I`m just sharing pictures while rebuilding this engine and some thoughts that come up along the way. Whether or not you find it informative is up to you and depends on your interpretatation

I agree, during driving the oil mass is floating around the crankcase, it`s unlikely though that this would negatively affect a ball bearing that otherwise at least half way sits in oil, unless you are speeding around in a rondabout for an hour. As for the circulation, after the engine stopped, most of the circulated oil remains in the oil galleries, this ensures that the oil gets to the plain bearings at the first revolution of the crank upon start. If it was otherwise, the plain bearings, that require constant oil pressure all the time, would be starving at every start leading to bearing failure shortly. Thus, I think the amount of oil that flows back after the pump stops is almost negligible. Or, on the contrary, the level in the sump may even rise a little bit when the engine is running, due to the scavanging pumps pumping the oil back to the sump from the periphery.

Cheers, Greg

78F350 · 01-07-2019, 10:25 AM

Great pictures. I sometimes regret scrapping my bad engine, just to be able to see and understand the kind of stuff that you are displaying.

Homeoboxter · 01-15-2019, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78F350

Great pictures. I sometimes regret scrapping my bad engine, just to be able to see and understand the kind of stuff that you are displaying.

You should, perfect stress relief

Homeoboxter · 01-15-2019, 11:02 PM

Yesterday I tackled a bit with the starter. Not that it really needed obvious attention, just if it`s out I thought I look into it.

Came apart easily. No need to replace anything, after some cleaning and regreasing everything can go back together.

Transmission gears run on needle bearings. Pretty thoughtful.

This is kind of odd, grease seems to be migrated from the gears while sitting during the 11 year long nap..

After a bit of cleaning:

Planetary gears regreased:

A 24 mm socket helps holding the brushes during reassembly.

Done.

Ottomotion · 01-07-2019, 10:20 AM

Ya but I would think most IMSB failures are happening on cars that are never tracked or put into situations where G forces are going to move oil away to the extent SB454 describes. What about windage trays? Not doing their job?
It would be interesting to have a window into the sump to see where the low oil level is when the engine is at full song....

Otto

maytag · 01-16-2019, 05:22 AM

Homeo, you do nice work, my friend. I'd let you work in my garage any time. (If there were room, of course, haha)

I am usually so pressed for time to get the current project completed (either because I need the garage for another project, or I'm trying to hit a track day, or whatever) that I rarely take the time to do these types of "just because I'm holding it in my hands already" items.

Kudos you you. Patience, perseverance, attention to detail. All good skills that are too rare at my house. Haha

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Homeoboxter · 01-20-2019, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maytag

Homeo, you do nice work, my friend. I'd let you work in my garage any time. (If there were room, of course, haha)

I am usually so pressed for time to get the current project completed (either because I need the garage for another project, or I'm trying to hit a track day, or whatever) that I rarely take the time to do these types of "just because I'm holding it in my hands already" items.

Kudos you you. Patience, perseverance, attention to detail. All good skills that are too rare at my house. Haha

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Thanks! I just check everything on the way as I don`t want to pull apart everything again when it turns out something failed and I missed it. This engine design doesn`t seem to allow you to fix anything easily with the engine in the car. And I have a tendency to get lost in the details that just makes all my projects last forever

Homeoboxter · 01-20-2019, 04:58 PM

Ok, so I`m still stuck finding matching rings for the car. First here are some pics of the ring gap measurements I made:

I pushed down all the rings all the way to the bottom and meaured the end gaps with a feeeler gage.
Here`s the result:

I couldn`t find specifications for this particular car, but based on other German cars with similar bor size (e.g. BMW) they are way out of specs. The side rails for the 3rd rings look pretty badly worn in particular:

I`ll do proper measurements for the wear with a bore gauge once I receive it from Amazon. The bores look fine though, and I think a fresh ring set will make a big difference. Problem is, I can`t get one for the 2.5L engine. There are available aftermarket sets for the 2.7 engine, but they are listed as non-matching for the 2.5L, and I don`t really understand why, since the two cars have the same bore size (85.5mm) and the thickness of the rings seems to be the same too (1.5; 1.2; 2.0 mm):

Can someone confirm they are identical?

Homeoboxter · 01-21-2019, 06:53 PM

I didn`t like the idea that the IMS is air-tight sealed and the only way for depressurization is through the bearing. Also, the engine shouldn`t allocate energy into spinning about a liter oil got caught inside a tube. So, I drilled a hole through the IMS. Here the pressure can be released and the oil that got stuck will be drained by centrifugal force.

Homeoboxter · 01-26-2019, 07:17 PM

Still no progress on the engine at all, I`m waithing for the rings to arrive. Fortunately this car has many other things to tackle with so I don`t get bored. The alternator made this not too healthy squeaking noise when spinning so I decided to rebuild it. In retrospect, it wasn`t worth the time, but if all goes well I`ll have a refurbished original BOSCH alternator.

Few Philips screws hold the back panel.

Could`ve been useful to spray the bolts with WD40 or similar.. Result: one broken bolt and one with stripped head. Next time!

The two halves came apart anyway:

I can counterhold the shaft with this bit but how to get access to this silly recessed nut?

After a quick visit to the hardware store I came up with this:

Unpullied:

What a disaster..

elgyqc · 04-06-2019, 04:14 AM

Just discovered this thread, I didn't even know that there was a "show-tell-gallery". You should put a link in the Performance and Technical section to share this experience.
Really impressive work!

Homeoboxter · 04-09-2019, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elgyqc

Just discovered this thread, I didn't even know that there was a "show-tell-gallery". You should put a link in the Performance and Technical section to share this experience.
Really impressive work!

Thanks! I didn`t know about the technical section

Homeoboxter · 06-30-2019, 01:39 AM

All right, back to the alternator, picking up where I left off a few months ago. Here`s the new slip ring fitted on the rotor:

Make sure this little notch on the slip ring casing fits the slot on the rotor or else you will have to destroy the slip ring housing to get it off again. Don`t ask how I know...

I soldered new wires in between the rings and the coil.

Quick testing for continuity using a 9V battery and a knife from the kitchen drawer. Mesmerizing!

Pressing the small bearing on its place using the big one:

The larger bearing in the set for the drive side was not the correct one, so I had to get a matching one:

Pulled into the case:

Finally spins freely with no noise.

Old vs. new brushes: