BRAN's - 986 - Seal Gray Anatomy

[BRAN]

yeah kinda sorta PLUS a sleeker version of THAT on top

and little bit more raised

[BRAN]

[JBauer]

Hey Bran, my bumpers off to the shop to get paint and since I suck at PhotoShop and your great at it. If you get bored could you make these bumpers red? If your too busy, no problem. I'm curious. Thanks

[BRAN]

there you go, JB...a quick adaption, takes 2 minutes, so don't look to close

[JBauer]

Originally Posted by BRAN

there you go, JB...a quick adaption, takes 2 minutes, so don't look to close

Thanks, thats good! Mine is always awful ��

[BRAN]

and another lucky cocoa find...

hey, take that hose away…


preparing...Operation cocoa

[BRAN]

As I want to install new door covers, I have to do some other upgrades additionally:
- door speaker & light Installation
- I did not get those back then - that means: The car has no preps for that...lucky me.

precautions: completely unhook the battery (always ground first and then plus---other way round, when hooking it back on) and wait at least an hour ("air bags")

1.) find the cables, which operate the door Lights, hook & install new cables and run them to the doors: Dome light (that means:
take off all A-pillar covers & de-install the sun blades, de-install the black dome light cover) That is why I got mine covered in Alcantara, while they were off.

2.) install new Speaker pins into the Radio speaker connector and run new cables to the doors: Easy...get new Pins with cables attached to them,
pull that yellow protector from the speaker connector cover, put the Pins (with cables) in the proper slots.
3.) to make it not too easy for me, I want a 16,5cm speakers upgrade...that means...use the Dremel and cut out the former door HAES speakers

4.) create new holders to attach them to the plastic door speakers housing (btw...this will be the last step of this mod)
5.) cut and prepare the inner door foam (detaching it on certain spots, no need to pull them completly off)


6.) get u-Clips and install the MY2001 plastic speaker housing (4 touch points each)

7.) run the cables for the light and speakers on top of the foam and finally to the door hinge

8.) prepare the rubber protection, to run the cables through them
9.) create a small passage within the cable connector



10.) connect all cables
11.) door covers Installation
12.) battery back on, done

That is the theory...lol

[BRAN]

[BRAN]

Questions:
Is that little gaze mat, which was underneath the HAES Sub, necessary for a 2-way speaker?
Should the Speaker be able to breath/vent heavily or should it be completely air sealed?
It sounds already good, but want to create the best possible circumstances for the speaker.
Any expert tips?

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by BRAN

Questions:
Is that little gaze mat, which was underneath the HAES Sub, necessary for a 2-way speaker?
Should the Speaker be able to breath/vent heavily or should it be completely air sealed?
It sounds already good, but want to create the best possible circumstances for the speaker.
Any expert tips?

You'll need to refer to the speaker manufacturers recommendations regarding sealed vs ported and enclosure volume.
Generally speaking, for better response from smaller mid range to sub speakers, you want the enclosure sealed and some insulation inside as the enclosure volume is likely inadequate.

Also, with your gap (port) so close to the cone, you're going to lose a lot of low end to phase cancellation (and a 6.5" speaker isn't going to have much low end to begin with).
Definitely seal that up.

.

[BRAN]

Originally Posted by particlewave

You'll need to refer to the speaker manufacturers recommendations regarding sealed vs ported and enclosure volume.
Generally speaking, for better response from smaller mid range to sub speakers, you want the enclosure sealed and some insulation inside as the enclosure volume is likely inadequate.

Also, with your gap (port) so close to the cone, you're going to lose a lot of low end to phase cancellation (and a 6.5" speaker isn't going to have much low end to begin with).
Definitely seal that up.

.

Good advice, did as you suggested (seal + gauze mat), sounds noticably better now. No wonder our dash speakers are limited with their "more open" setup.
Still no Sub punch, of course, so I will have to create a bespoke solution for that, too --> BRANMESTER SOUND

16,5cm is the max door speaker size you can upgrade to...snug fit

[BRAN]

OPERATION COCOA
left door upgrade COMPLETE!
-cocoa leather cover
-door speakers (16,5cm upgrade)
-door lights

[Spyder_Man]

Hey there these might interest you:

Wood grain dash speakers on eBay

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F17 3781324490

[BRAN]

Originally Posted by Spyder_Man

Hey there these might interest you:

Wood grain dash speakers on eBay

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F17 3781324490

nice find, Spyder Man!

[BRAN]

hmmm...I guess someone else had the same idea

[BRAN]

OPERATION COCOA
right door upgrade COMPLETE!
-cocoa leather cover
-door speakers (16,5cm upgrade)
-door Lights




The lower dash below the wood trims needs a bespoke solution as well…(there is almost next to nothing on the car which isn't bespoke...lol)
kind of leather weave "spinneybeck" in cocoa Brown or maybe a mix of different Colors...need to find out what is possible.

[particlewave]

Nice

Did you do the door handle courtesy lights while you were in there?

[BRAN]

Thanks!
Well, I did the courtesy light on the passenger side quite a while ago, with a UK door handle spare part.
MY2001 was already equipped with 3 courtesy lights...I made it 4 (2 innner door handle lights + 2 front facing Lights).
So while i was in there, I did it all...so I never have to touch those doors again."Re-wireing" was the biggest pita.

[BRAN]

Originally Posted by BRAN

Good advice, did as you suggested (seal + gauze mat), sounds noticably better now. No wonder our dash speakers are limited with their "more open" setup.
Still no Sub punch, of course, so I will have to create a bespoke solution for that, too --> BRANMESTER SOUND

16,5cm is the max door speaker size you can upgrade to...snug fit

Uhm...after sorting bios Upgrades for the Pioneer SBH-BT10, new iPhone Equalizer settings, and perfect Equalizer Settings in the head unit...I am totally blown away.
What a HUGE improvement to my former Stereo! Major Sub Punch now...actually thinking more of getting a tweeter upgrade than a bespoke sub solution. Will probably do both...and create a BRANMESTER Sound, which can easily (for my old ears) compete with nowadays AUDI/Mercedes/BMW sound systems. Well I would say, it can do it already, and with the tweeter and sub upgrade, it will blow those away.

[BRAN]

additinonal tweeters in new wood framed housings, modded and painted in seal gray