986 Weird engine issue.

[kbod]

deleted post

[blue62]

Originally Posted by kbod

Ok I just did some live data testing....the thing wouldn't recreate the problem. The timing on both banks was consistently even as the idle fluctuated. My question is, what would be symbolic of a failed solenoid versus a failed actuator/tensioner assembly. Because from what i know a solenoid is a 200 dollar part which only requires the valve cover removal..... whilst a tensioner assembly is a MASSIVE undertaking involving camshaft and timing chain removal... ive narrowed it down to either a solenoid or actuator issue... I just need to see which one it is before I start spending and the car really has no pattern with this problem, sometimes it just does not do it. Sometimes it will do it at cold idle, sometimes it will do it after warming up, I might add the car was sitting for 3 years until this month, if that changes anything, although it runs amazing and revs like a champ.. Although I noticed sometimes the car takes extra long to start. sometimes it doesn't and starts right up super fast, one time it refused to start at all and I had to press the gas pedal while cranking for a bit to get it to roar to life.... I feel like that might be connected who knows...

first: I would test the wiring to the solenoid.
I don't know if the wiring to the solenoid is just a 12 volt hot and a ground or???
So you will need a wiring diagram.
Second: If your scanner has component test capability you could actuate the Variocam system one bank at a time. With key on engine off and listen for the solenoid to actuate=click.
Doing this with key on engine off you should be able to hear the solenoid work because it is electric component.
but the actuator will not activate because it needs oil pressure to work.

[kbod]

I also believe this can be done with a little battery right?

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by kbod

Ok I just did some live data testing....the thing wouldn't recreate the problem. The timing on both banks was consistently even as the idle fluctuated. My question is, what would be symbolic of a failed solenoid versus a failed actuator/tensioner assembly. Because from what i know a solenoid is a 200 dollar part which only requires the valve cover removal..... whilst a tensioner assembly is a MASSIVE undertaking involving camshaft and timing chain removal... ive narrowed it down to either a solenoid or actuator issue... I just need to see which one it is before I start spending and the car really has no pattern with this problem, sometimes it just does not do it. Sometimes it will do it at cold idle, sometimes it will do it after warming up, I might add the car was sitting for 3 years until this month, if that changes anything, although it runs amazing and revs like a champ.. Although I noticed sometimes the car takes extra long to start. sometimes it doesn't and starts right up super fast, one time it refused to start at all and I had to press the gas pedal while cranking for a bit to get it to roar to life.... I feel like that might be connected who knows...

As Blue said, the solenoid is easy to test using 12V or even a 9V battery. You should hear an audible click. You can also measure the resistance with an Ohm meter to see if it`s shorted or broken. Replacing the solenoid is a big undertaking too, because you
need to remove the cover and you have not much room. It`s not such a big deal to pull the cams from that point.

If the solenoids are fine, you may still have faulty actuators. A relatively easy test is to use a small camera and inspect the switchover. You can also take a peek onto the small chain pad that wears relatively fast and can cause timing issues.

[kbod]

deleted post

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by kbod

Alright, I just did some more testing. At idle it all seems good and the timing fluctuated but at 3000 rpm bank 2 switches timing quickly but bank 1 takes a while to respond, tonight I plan on testing the solenoid clicks, I previously posted a link to a pelican guide on changing the solenoid, for that all I have to do is lock timing and remove the head covers. But for the tensioner actuator replacement not only it’s a 1,000$ part, it also involves removing the camshaft. and I’ve heard horror stories from other forum members on getting it back together If any of you have access to a video or guide on that job It would be super helpful. But as of right now I’ve concluded it’s not a connection issue and there is just a sticking issue where it takes long to change timing and it takes long to switch back I’ll report back tonight on how testing the solenoid goes.

Once you have the cover off it`s recommended to pull the camshafts anyway, so you can replace the two small chain pads on the actuator. The actuator comes off together with the small chain and the two camshafts as a unit. It`s not difficult to do if you have the correct tools. Take a look at this thread, you may find some useful info: Blue boxster resurrection project

[kbod]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

Once you have the cover off it`s recommended to pull the camshafts anyway, so you can replace the two small chain pads on the actuator. The actuator comes off together with the small chain and the two camshafts as a unit. It`s not difficult to do if you have the correct tools. Take a look at this thread, you may find some useful info: Blue boxster resurrection project

My biggest fear is not taking the car apart, There is Plenty of information on getting it apart... but I have found absolutely 0 information or guides on actually replacing the actuator and getting those camshafts back on... Once I take the tension off the chain and take the cams off all the valves return to their resting position... So upon reinstalling the cam I have to get it on JUST right and idk how...

[blue62]

kbod

I went back and reread your first post.
You stated that your only getting 11 mpg.
Is that correct?
I have a 2000S so it's a 3.2 with a six speed.
I get 23-28 mpg. 23 when I'm playing and 25-28 when I'm driving in my age bracket.
Did you see anything unusual or way out of line when you scanned your live data?

I know you working on the cam timing actuator issue.
But I was curious 11mpg just ain't right

[kbod]

Originally Posted by blue62

kbod

I went back and reread your first post.
You stated that your only getting 11 mpg.
Is that correct?
I have a 2000S so it's a 3.2 with a six speed.
I get 23-28 mpg. 23 when I'm playing and 25-28 when I'm driving in my age bracket.
Did you see anything unusual or way out of line when you scanned your live data?

I know you working on the cam timing actuator issue.
But I was curious 11mpg just ain't right

yep. although after cleaning the maf and new spark plugs that went up to 15-17... perhaps just a matter of me needing to fix the car and drive it more...