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Old 07-03-2020, 02:50 PM   #61
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Its a very slippery slope
It is, and you never get to the bottom. For example I bought an Audi V8 for it today...

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Old 07-07-2020, 06:04 PM   #62
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Out with the old. Anyone need a 2.7? The Audi V8 arrives Friday (I think), 8 weeks or so until tools down and baby arrives.
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Old 07-08-2020, 06:56 AM   #63
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Thanks, I’m putting on 315/35/17 Hoosiers today, and 245s in the front. Same setup I have on my 911, I’ll eventually need a wider front tire
That's a monster tire! I bet that is going to feel good!
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Old 09-28-2020, 02:36 PM   #64
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Well I've also had some enormous scope creep. I decided that lifting the car 2 feet off the ground to pull the engine from below is absurd and I don't have enough faith that I can service the Audi V8 with the factory engine cover in place so I did some cutting... I removed he entire engine surround and fire wall, rear trunk and moved all the electronics to the cabin I'll make an aluminum firewall that goes all the way to the roof and will either install a plexi window or install a hidefinition rear camera that uses the a rear view mirror as a screen (oddly the cheaper option). With the rear trunk removed I can now just wheel a new motor in instead of lifting the car up and pulling it from underneath (especially valuable with the tall V8 compared to the flat 6)






you can see in the above photo I'll need to add some rear chassis reinforcement, I'm going wait for the engine to go in and then tie something into the cage to strengthen it


I also added a third radiator that’ll sit under the hood scoop (feed from the front of the car and cut out the original rear quarter panels (that now sit under the widebody) to make room for...intercoolers


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Old 09-28-2020, 06:47 PM   #65
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You got some nuts man...no one can argue that
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Old 10-04-2020, 03:33 AM   #66
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Parts for the turbo build have started flowing and I’ve started the mock up. Here’s one of the two side intercooler radiators (the water cooling rad).



Air will enter here


And exit here (the gap between the outer fender and tail light


I’m a little bummed about the weight, they’re probably 25lbs a piece. I’ll have close to 100lbs in my intercooler system including the water. All in all I’m probably adding 200-250lbs to the car in engine, turbos and cooling, so far I’ve found about 40lbs in steel that I was able to remove. Hopefully I can find some more. I still need to remove the HVAC system under the dash, anyone know what that weighs?
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Old 10-04-2020, 10:30 AM   #67
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That's going to be vicious. Do you think it will handle more like a 911? Really enjoying your journey.
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Old 10-04-2020, 10:56 AM   #68
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That's going to be vicious. Do you think it will handle more like a 911? Really enjoying your journey.
Hopefully not fortunately the engine is in the middle so adding weight to the middle of the car shouldn’t change things much, we’ll see. I’m sure the additional power will change just about everything though, in the past throttle control rarely came into play, I was either off throttle or on full throttle. The car never had enough power to need a light foot. Hopefully the 315 series Hoosier will help, the open diff on the other hand...
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Old 10-04-2020, 05:30 PM   #69
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the open diff on the other hand...
Perhaps it's time for an OS Giken LSD..?
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Old 10-05-2020, 12:51 PM   #70
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Perhaps it's time for an OS Giken LSD..?
I need to upgrade to a 6 speed first but that’s a great option. Not that $1,500 is cheap but I’m surprised it’s not more expensive.
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Old 10-05-2020, 02:26 PM   #71
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Old 10-05-2020, 05:57 PM   #72
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Where did you get the radiator for the frunk? I need to upgrade mine to something like that one
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Old 10-05-2020, 11:39 PM   #73
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This is really sweet. Badass looking car, I'm taking notes.

Some random quations: What's the offset on your rear wheels? Any clearance issues? And I dig your frunk mount radiator. That was the origional plan on mine, but we ended up going a different route. I'm also very much considering s̶t̶e̶a̶l̶i̶n̶g̶ borrowing your widebody design.


One of these days, we need to meet up at VIR.

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Old 10-06-2020, 01:34 AM   #74
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Where did you get the radiator for the frunk? I need to upgrade mine to something like that one
Here’s a link to the rad, you’ll need to cut a huge hole on the front of the trunk and bumper and make a hood vent (I made one out of aluminum but you could buy something off amazon I’m sure). Plumbing this thing up is no proving to be very difficult. The Boxster has two coolant hoses going forward and two back so you need to make some complex manifolds to make it work. Still a work in progress.

OzCoolingParts Pro 3 Row Core All Aluminum Radiator + 2 x 12" Fan w/Shroud Kit for 1963-1968 64 65 66 67 Chevy Bel-Air/Impala/Biscayne/Caprice, Many Chevy GM Cars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081YTZFD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WLdFFbJTZEMCJ

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Last edited by truegearhead; 10-06-2020 at 01:48 AM.
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Old 10-06-2020, 01:37 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by WizardSmokey View Post
This is really sweet. Badass looking car, I'm taking notes.

Some random quations: What's the offset on your rear wheels? Any clearance issues? And I dig your frunk mount radiator. That was the origional plan on mine, but we ended up going a different route. I'm also very much considering s̶t̶e̶a̶l̶i̶n̶g̶ borrowing your widebody design.


One of these days, we need to meet up at VIR.
Thanks! The rear wheels are 12”s wide with the hub right in the middle of the wheel. I don’t have fitment issues but the fenders are of course not factory. The front is 8”s wider which I accomplished by extending the front suspension (I didn’t change the offset of the wheels). The rear fenders were actually really easy to make I used .125” think aluminum (super super thin). It can’t even support itself unless it’s bolted down, but once’s secured its rock solid.
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Old 10-06-2020, 04:48 AM   #76
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truegearhead,
you might like this too:
https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayman-and-cayman-s-all-generations/1211154-cup-suspension-on-a-cayman.html
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Old 10-06-2020, 12:46 PM   #77
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Do you really need the fans for the middle radiator? I take it you still got the fans for the outer rads, then the speed will likely give enough flow for the middle one. It´s obviously not a road car that will be sitting in slow traffic, so I´d suggest you get rid of that extra weight!
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Old 10-06-2020, 04:04 PM   #78
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Here’s a link to the rad, you’ll need to cut a huge hole on the front of the trunk and bumper and make a hood vent (I made one out of aluminum but you could buy something off amazon I’m sure). Plumbing this thing up is no proving to be very difficult. The Boxster has two coolant hoses going forward and two back so you need to make some complex manifolds to make it work. Still a work in progress.

OzCoolingParts Pro 3 Row Core All Aluminum Radiator + 2 x 12" Fan w/Shroud Kit for 1963-1968 64 65 66 67 Chevy Bel-Air/Impala/Biscayne/Caprice, Many Chevy GM Cars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081YTZFD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WLdFFbJTZEMCJ]
Awesome! Thanks a bunch! I'm using a toyota corolla radiator with an electric water pump right now but the radiator isn't up to the demand I'm producing with my rally boxster. I have to say I think your boxster build is the most intriguing build ever. My hat is off to you. Keep it up, it's very entertaining.
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Old 10-06-2020, 06:00 PM   #79
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I still need to remove the HVAC system under the dash, anyone know what that weighs?
25lbs for the dash evap and heater core
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Old 10-08-2020, 03:41 AM   #80
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Do you really need the fans for the middle radiator? I take it you still got the fans for the outer rads, then the speed will likely give enough flow for the middle one. It´s obviously not a road car that will be sitting in slow traffic, so I´d suggest you get rid of that extra weight!
Good point..I’ve removed the fans from the outer rads for this reason. I probably don’t need any fans and could just place a fan in front of the rad in the paddock once I come in if I want the car to run and cool down.

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