Hood Extractor for Downforce

[Fiddlebog]

I love it. This is a super cool mod, and I'll be following. May end up doing something similar myself.

[truegearhead]

I have it all pop riveted together (partially). Now I need to file down and clean up the edges, take it apart, wrap the hood and then drill and rivet the rest of it together. All in all I probably have a full day wrapped up into getting to this point. A few lessons learned

1) make template after template, use lots of cardboard.
2) make panels one at a time, rivet them to the hood then recheck your templates for the remaining pieces. dimensions change as the rivets go it.
3) change your jigsaw blades often to keep cuts clean.
4) use tape to protect aluminum surface
5) don't cut aluminum big with the plans to trim. Get the template 100% right then cut
6) measure the straightness constantly, it will want to pull in different directions.

[itsnotanova]

I'm liking your improvements to it. How do you get under the hood now? It looks like it's riveted to the body

[truegearhead]

Originally Posted by itsnotanova

I'm liking your improvements to it. How do you get under the hood now? It looks like it's riveted to the body

Thanks, I played around with designs that would allow the good to swing up but it would have been a mess. Now to remove the hood it needs to be lifted off. All of the aluminum you see is attached to the hood.

[truegearhead]

Ok now I’ve really lost. I posted this up on Grassroots and a very knowledgeable guy that’s been helping me told me that due to the size of this thing what I really need is a “cowl flap” and to make it efficient it Really should be adjustable. What if....I used the Boxsters 70mph spoiler deployment system to automatically raise and lower the flap...and change the pitch of the rear wing. It would work in the opposite way the stock wing works though it would maximize downforce below 70mph. I wonder if just reversing the poles on the stock actuators would reverse the direction they operate, anyone know? Alright my crazy pills are wearing off.

[truegearhead]

Ok I’m back and with some more crazy piles. So using the stock Boxster actuator system won’t work because it deploys at 70 and retracts at 45 or something. I would need a signal that’s consistent at 70. I wonder how the stock system is being signaled, maybe they’re is a consistent signal I could use from it. Anyone know?

[CRallo]

Any more follow ups?

My knowledge base and experience would say the best way to add front downforce, regardless of actually adding downforce verse eliminating lift, would be to ditch the side RADS and use a center only rad in the duct that you built. In stock form the side rads pack air under the nose of the car in front of the tires and even opened up into the wheel while you're packing the wheel well with air which we already know is a high pressure area generally.

[78F350]

Originally Posted by CRallo

Any more follow ups?

My knowledge base and experience would say the best way to add front downforce, regardless of actually adding downforce verse eliminating lift, would be to ditch the side RADS and use a center only rad in the duct that you built. In stock form the side rads pack air under the nose of the car in front of the tires and even opened up into the wheel while you're packing the wheel well with air which we already know is a high pressure area generally.

'Truegearhead' has made *SIGNIFICANT* changes to the car since 2020. I'm not sure how often he is on the 986 Forum now, but he updates on another forum regularly here:
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/forget-tt5-lets-go-off-the-deep-end-twin-turbo-v8-widebody-boxster/193174/page1/

Here's some more recent pics:

[S50Sinner]

This may be redundant, but have you tested with yarn yet? Tape yarn to the hood all over, especially the trailing edge of your extractor hole, and see what it does. It'll give you a lot of information about where your high pressure, low pressure and attached/detached flow areas are.