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Old 12-16-2015, 11:21 AM   #1
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rear wheel bearing

Hello guys.
in the middle of replacing rear wheel bearings on 01S.
using the sir tool to remove the hub, the hub came out with the inner race of the bearing still attached to it.
not sure if i did something wrong, or the bearing was so bad that it fall apart.
anyway, i'm on my way now to the local autozone or HF to look for a puller that might help. i noticed two grooves on the hub so i assume some sort of a puller will fit in there.
if you got any ideas how to remove it, it will be appreciated.
thanks in advance.
Meir.

Last edited by Meir; 12-16-2015 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:19 PM   #2
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Cool Rear wheel bearing replacement

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Originally Posted by Meir View Post
Hello guys.
in the middle of replacing rear wheel bearings on 01S.
using the sir tool to remove the hub, the hub came out with the inner race of the bearing still attached to it.
not sure if i did something wrong, or the bearing was so bad that it fall apart.
anyway, I'm on my way now to the local autozone or HF to look for a puller that might help. i noticed two grooves on the hub so i assume some sort of a puller will fit in there.
if you got any ideas how to remove it, it will be appreciated.
thanks in advance.
Meir.
Hello Meir
I just seen your post. One place you could have a look is Pelican Parts. I went to their site and they have it all explained there. They have one photo showing the bearing just how yours is with a two prong puller dragging it off.
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:43 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by derfo View Post
Hello Meir
I just seen your post. One place you could have a look is Pelican Parts. I went to their site and they have it all explained there. They have one photo showing the bearing just how yours is with a two prong puller dragging it off.
yes.
thank you very much for the reply.
you are probably referring to this picture:






i was kind of hoping to pick something local and finish it today.
i got few generic pullers, butt none of them worked.
i have a transmissions rebuild shop close to my office. i will probably stop there tomorrow, and see if they could pull it out for me.
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:49 PM   #4
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looked at the pelican website, and they do not offer this puller for sale.
i wonder if something like that might work.

http://www.amazon.com/ATD-Tools-3056-Bar-Type-Separator/dp/B004IQ8RMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450306748&sr=8-1&keywords=bearing+puller
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Old 12-16-2015, 02:06 PM   #5
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Cool Puller

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Originally Posted by Meir View Post
looked at the pelican website, and they do not offer this puller for sale.
i wonder if something like that might work.

http://www.amazon.com/ATD-Tools-3056-Bar-Type-Separator/dp/B004IQ8RMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450306748&sr=8-1&keywords=bearing+puller
It looks to me like there are no hooks. I don't think those round disc's would be up to it, also don't think they would fit either and it all looks a bit lightweight as well. Take your hub to the place near you and see what they have got first.
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Old 12-16-2015, 03:43 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by derfo View Post
It looks to me like there are no hooks. I don't think those round disc's would be up to it, also don't think they would fit either and it all looks a bit lightweight as well. Take your hub to the place near you and see what they have got first.
you are probably right.
i think this one will make a better fit for this job.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4534-Multipurpose-Bearing-Pulley/dp/B00061SM9E/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1FERVKZW75R1XCQ0RGE4

added to my amzon wishlist, as im sure i will have to do this job again one day
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Old 12-16-2015, 02:10 PM   #7
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looked at the pelican website, and they do not offer this puller for sale.
i wonder if something like that might work.

Amazon.com: ATD Tools 3056 Bar-Type Puller/Bearing Separator Set in Molded Storage and Carrying Case - 5 Ton Capacity: Automotive
The tool pictured in this post is what you need to start the race off. Then a 2 or 3 arm puller or a press to finish the job.
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Old 12-16-2015, 03:16 PM   #8
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I replaced the front bearings last week on my Honda Odyssey. Both hubs came off with the inner race, just like yours. I found a tip that suggested to use a dermal tool with a metal cutting wheel and make a cut across the race about an eighth of an inch deep, in two or three places. Try to cut as deep as you can without cutting through to the hub. Once you have scored the race, take a chisel, setting it into the groove that you have cut. A couple good wacks with a hammer will break it through completely. In my case, one groove was enough to loosen the bearing enough to slide it off. If necessary, you may have to cut a second or third groove. This technique was easy and worked like a charm.
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Old 04-10-2016, 04:00 AM   #9
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How did you get the axle out while leaving what looks like most of the rear suspension attached? I had to disconnect everything but the strut and the whom thing is flopping around and hard to hold still while I use the tool?

Great pictures btw!
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Old 04-10-2016, 05:51 AM   #10
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Hi Steve.
i removed the diagonal brace and plate, and the cats.
once the cats are out of the way, you can remove the axle from the car.
i noticed that almost in every project it helps a lot to have that space.
after doing it so many time, it takes me exactly 5 minutes to take of or put on.
however, i have a lift, so that makes things easier.

Last edited by Meir; 04-10-2016 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:31 AM   #11
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Ahhh... My mid pipes are still on...i may remove them for the other side...
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Old 11-21-2017, 08:32 AM   #12
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Any info on the e brake assembly? you completely removed them to do this correct??
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Old 11-21-2017, 11:35 AM   #13
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Any info on the e brake assembly? you completely removed them to do this correct??
I used the SIR tool, and needed to remove the e-brake pads. PITA to put them back.
Did it on the S model, so I cannot confirm it is needed on the base as well.
Basically the hors shoe part of tool did not fit between the pads and the hub.
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Old 11-21-2017, 11:36 AM   #14
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Any info on the e brake assembly? you completely removed them to do this correct??
When I replaced the rear bearings (using a bearing tool kit), I didn't have to remove the parking brake cable since the hub housing remained in place..
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Old 11-21-2017, 12:00 PM   #15
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When I replaced the rear bearings (using a bearing tool kit), I didn't have to remove the parking brake cable since the hub housing remained in place..
Correct. The cables stays. But did you removed the pads (aka shoes)?
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Old 11-22-2017, 06:02 AM   #16
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Correct. The cables stays. But did you removed the pads (aka shoes)?
Hello Meir,

Yes, you remove everything (axle, parking brake shoes, etc.,).

Since I wanted to leave the hub carrier in place, for the first bearing, I used a 'borrowed' hub puller from Autozone that is very effective but physically demanding (at least for me..), then I got from HF a 'bearing tool kit' as recommended by one of the members on this forum and that made the job much easier.

For the front bearings you need to use the hub puller unless you remove the strut assembly as there is no room for the bearing tool.

Good luck!
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Old 11-24-2017, 08:10 PM   #17
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I've done 30-40 bearings over the last 10+yrs.. I always use heat (as the factory manual suggest) The one time I didn't use heat? I broke a 996RSR front upright.

Thought I'd leave this tidbit here for review. Per the factory manual:

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Old 11-25-2017, 12:17 PM   #18
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Did the repair last winter. Driver side was noisy, found out that a ball was missing in what appears to be the factory bearing... Then the pass side, I pressed a new bearing then a hub without a retainer plate... so I pulled the hub out and noticed that it was rather loose fit, even though the frozen hub got warmer at this point. I bolted up the retainer quick then pressed the hub again and it was still not tight, I could press in and out by hands without the tools. I felt something was wrong, so checked the dimension and bearing ID was about 0.02mm larger than original ones... so ordered a few new ones just in case and it was in fact running larger than others. I put new one in and it fit tight. Heat/ chill helps press-out/ in but be sure to check tightness once the temp settles. Watch quality of FAG bearings.
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Last edited by Boxstard; 11-26-2017 at 04:30 AM.
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Old 11-29-2017, 01:36 PM   #19
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Did you have to remove the ABS sensor from the hub? Gilles had recommended removal of the ABS sensor and am wondering why this would be necessary didn't think the sensor really contacted the hub or race? I have replaced one and found impossible to remove without damaging it getting the sensor out of the hub. I appreciate all the responses/advice I have gotten but I am trying to understand this process without making more problems for myself.
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Last edited by mikesz; 11-29-2017 at 01:40 PM.
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Old 11-29-2017, 03:10 PM   #20
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Did you have to remove the ABS sensor from the hub? Gilles had recommended removal of the ABS sensor and am wondering why this would be necessary didn't think the sensor really contacted the hub or race? I have replaced one and found impossible to remove without damaging it getting the sensor out of the hub. I appreciate all the responses/advice I have gotten but I am trying to understand this process without making more problems for myself.
The tip of the sensor is kind of fragile, I broke one of mine by being careless and they are not cheap..
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