12-16-2015, 11:21 AM
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#1
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1999 base
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 1,617
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rear wheel bearing
Hello guys.
in the middle of replacing rear wheel bearings on 01S.
using the sir tool to remove the hub, the hub came out with the inner race of the bearing still attached to it.
not sure if i did something wrong, or the bearing was so bad that it fall apart.
anyway, i'm on my way now to the local autozone or HF to look for a puller that might help. i noticed two grooves on the hub so i assume some sort of a puller will fit in there.
if you got any ideas how to remove it, it will be appreciated.
thanks in advance.
Meir.
Last edited by Meir; 12-16-2015 at 11:58 AM.
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12-16-2015, 01:19 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 140
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Rear wheel bearing replacement
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meir
Hello guys.
in the middle of replacing rear wheel bearings on 01S.
using the sir tool to remove the hub, the hub came out with the inner race of the bearing still attached to it.
not sure if i did something wrong, or the bearing was so bad that it fall apart.
anyway, I'm on my way now to the local autozone or HF to look for a puller that might help. i noticed two grooves on the hub so i assume some sort of a puller will fit in there.
if you got any ideas how to remove it, it will be appreciated.
thanks in advance.
Meir.

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Hello Meir
I just seen your post. One place you could have a look is Pelican Parts. I went to their site and they have it all explained there. They have one photo showing the bearing just how yours is with a two prong puller dragging it off.
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12-16-2015, 01:43 PM
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#3
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1999 base
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 1,617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derfo
Hello Meir
I just seen your post. One place you could have a look is Pelican Parts. I went to their site and they have it all explained there. They have one photo showing the bearing just how yours is with a two prong puller dragging it off.
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yes.
thank you very much for the reply.
you are probably referring to this picture:
i was kind of hoping to pick something local and finish it today. 
i got few generic pullers, butt none of them worked.
i have a transmissions rebuild shop close to my office. i will probably stop there tomorrow, and see if they could pull it out for me.
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12-16-2015, 01:49 PM
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#4
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1999 base
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 1,617
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12-16-2015, 02:06 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 140
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Puller
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meir
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It looks to me like there are no hooks. I don't think those round disc's would be up to it, also don't think they would fit either and it all looks a bit lightweight as well. Take your hub to the place near you and see what they have got first.
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12-16-2015, 03:43 PM
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#6
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1999 base
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 1,617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derfo
It looks to me like there are no hooks. I don't think those round disc's would be up to it, also don't think they would fit either and it all looks a bit lightweight as well. Take your hub to the place near you and see what they have got first.
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you are probably right.
i think this one will make a better fit for this job.
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4534-Multipurpose-Bearing-Pulley/dp/B00061SM9E/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1FERVKZW75R1XCQ0RGE4
added to my amzon wishlist, as im sure i will have to do this job again one day
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12-16-2015, 02:10 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: SE Ma
Posts: 261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meir
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The tool pictured in this post is what you need to start the race off. Then a 2 or 3 arm puller or a press to finish the job.
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12-16-2015, 03:16 PM
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#8
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1998 Boxster
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Lakewood, Ohio
Posts: 110
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I replaced the front bearings last week on my Honda Odyssey. Both hubs came off with the inner race, just like yours. I found a tip that suggested to use a dermal tool with a metal cutting wheel and make a cut across the race about an eighth of an inch deep, in two or three places. Try to cut as deep as you can without cutting through to the hub. Once you have scored the race, take a chisel, setting it into the groove that you have cut. A couple good wacks with a hammer will break it through completely. In my case, one groove was enough to loosen the bearing enough to slide it off. If necessary, you may have to cut a second or third groove. This technique was easy and worked like a charm.
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04-10-2016, 04:00 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,144
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How did you get the axle out while leaving what looks like most of the rear suspension attached? I had to disconnect everything but the strut and the whom thing is flopping around and hard to hold still while I use the tool?
Great pictures btw!
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04-10-2016, 05:51 AM
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#10
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1999 base
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 1,617
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Hi Steve.
i removed the diagonal brace and plate, and the cats.
once the cats are out of the way, you can remove the axle from the car.
i noticed that almost in every project it helps a lot to have that space.
after doing it so many time, it takes me exactly 5 minutes to take of or put on.
however, i have a lift, so that makes things easier.
Last edited by Meir; 04-10-2016 at 09:38 AM.
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04-10-2016, 10:31 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,144
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Ahhh... My mid pipes are still on...i may remove them for the other side...
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11-21-2017, 08:32 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cranston RI
Posts: 902
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Any info on the e brake assembly? you completely removed them to do this correct??
__________________
99 Porsche Boxster
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11-21-2017, 11:35 AM
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#13
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1999 base
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 1,617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikesz
Any info on the e brake assembly? you completely removed them to do this correct??
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I used the SIR tool, and needed to remove the e-brake pads. PITA to put them back.
Did it on the S model, so I cannot confirm it is needed on the base as well.
Basically the hors shoe part of tool did not fit between the pads and the hub.
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11-21-2017, 11:36 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikesz
Any info on the e brake assembly? you completely removed them to do this correct??
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When I replaced the rear bearings (using a bearing tool kit), I didn't have to remove the parking brake cable since the hub housing remained in place..
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11-21-2017, 12:00 PM
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#15
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1999 base
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 1,617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilles
When I replaced the rear bearings (using a bearing tool kit), I didn't have to remove the parking brake cable since the hub housing remained in place..
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Correct. The cables stays. But did you removed the pads (aka shoes)?
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11-22-2017, 06:02 AM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meir
Correct. The cables stays. But did you removed the pads (aka shoes)?
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Hello Meir,
Yes, you remove everything (axle, parking brake shoes, etc.,).
Since I wanted to leave the hub carrier in place, for the first bearing, I used a 'borrowed' hub puller from Autozone that is very effective but physically demanding (at least for me..), then I got from HF a 'bearing tool kit' as recommended by one of the members on this forum and that made the job much easier.
For the front bearings you need to use the hub puller unless you remove the strut assembly as there is no room for the bearing tool.
Good luck!
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11-24-2017, 08:10 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
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I've done 30-40 bearings over the last 10+yrs.. I always use heat (as the factory manual suggest) The one time I didn't use heat? I broke a 996RSR front upright.
Thought I'd leave this tidbit here for review. Per the factory manual:
__________________
Engine Builds, Transmission Builds, Engine Conversions, Suspension Installs, Suspension Tuning, Driver Coaching, Data Acquisition, Video, SCCA/PCA/POC/NASA/GRAND AM/ALMS.
We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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11-25-2017, 12:17 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 496
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Did the repair last winter. Driver side was noisy, found out that a ball was missing in what appears to be the factory bearing... Then the pass side, I pressed a new bearing then a hub without a retainer plate... so I pulled the hub out and noticed that it was rather loose fit, even though the frozen hub got warmer at this point. I bolted up the retainer quick then pressed the hub again and it was still not tight, I could press in and out by hands without the tools. I felt something was wrong, so checked the dimension and bearing ID was about 0.02mm larger than original ones... so ordered a few new ones just in case and it was in fact running larger than others. I put new one in and it fit tight. Heat/ chill helps press-out/ in but be sure to check tightness once the temp settles. Watch quality of FAG bearings.
__________________
1997 Boxster arctic silver/ red, XNE riveted mahogany/ leather steering wheel & 917-style wood shift knob, Ben’s short shifter, PSE, 996 TB, UDP, stereo/ center console delete, hardtop and speedster humps, daily driver rain or shine or snow!
Last edited by Boxstard; 11-26-2017 at 04:30 AM.
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11-29-2017, 01:36 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Cranston RI
Posts: 902
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Did you have to remove the ABS sensor from the hub? Gilles had recommended removal of the ABS sensor and am wondering why this would be necessary didn't think the sensor really contacted the hub or race? I have replaced one and found impossible to remove without damaging it getting the sensor out of the hub. I appreciate all the responses/advice I have gotten but I am trying to understand this process without making more problems for myself.
__________________
99 Porsche Boxster
Last edited by mikesz; 11-29-2017 at 01:40 PM.
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11-29-2017, 03:10 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikesz
Did you have to remove the ABS sensor from the hub? Gilles had recommended removal of the ABS sensor and am wondering why this would be necessary didn't think the sensor really contacted the hub or race? I have replaced one and found impossible to remove without damaging it getting the sensor out of the hub. I appreciate all the responses/advice I have gotten but I am trying to understand this process without making more problems for myself.
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The tip of the sensor is kind of fragile, I broke one of mine by being careless and they are not cheap..
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