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Old 03-02-2017, 05:37 AM   #1
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Boxster S no longer immobilized but...the 295$ Dme/ignition/ecu/key+ is faulty?

My hand to the higher power, before asking anything i pledge that i read no less than 20 hrs on all the boards for a solution to my wet immobiLizer, only to bewilderingly stumble down the defeated path of replacing all those damn parts and to admit defeat by the sticky computers fingers of the antitheft ghosts circa 2000?

And, after replacing each component checking to see its respective necessity in the running of my beloved 3.2, i laughed to myself as the legend came full color when the key cranked only after ignition switch was in etc etc.

-anyway-problem is that, although all my electrical works-starts and runs great I have almost zero throttle response under anything past, say chevy 1/2 to the levy? It's as though the mapping is from those cars yiu rent in Hawaii that, in addition to being governed, its as though the gas is made of sugar, just no umph.

I'll check my maf sensor but two questions: if it's my new (used) dme can i in some hypothetical have a less than 1 hr fix, and secondly-is there a way I can use my old dme with this new matched set if I magically have some matching number?

Are there other simple things to check? I want my power back thx

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Old 03-02-2017, 07:42 AM   #2
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Have you real all the codes? That should be step number one!
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Old 03-02-2017, 05:52 PM   #3
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Could you have a wrong DME?

At what rev is the power just not there? Could it be a variocam control line?
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Old 03-03-2017, 11:37 AM   #4
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No magic solution.

The DME/Immobilizer/Key transmitter all need to be programmed as a set and only a professional level tester can do the programming (even if you had the codes). You'd have to take the car to a well-equipped local shop or dealer to have the old DME programmed to work with the new immobilizer and key transmitter.
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Last edited by thstone; 03-03-2017 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 03-03-2017, 01:31 PM   #5
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We've done this with a Solus or Matco?Launch but not recommended.Also suggest to find an Indie who is a total geek on the Scanner subject. If not he will waste too much time getting this job done and it may make matters worse. As Mr.Stone wisely hints, it is a rare case that indicates the value of the Dealer. But often ,the younger Techs have little experience/interest in '20' year old Boxsters. If you personally visit the Porsche parts suppliers in your area, they will know who the Porsche-computer geniuses are in your area. They are the ones that buy a disproportionate number of modules, ECU's,Immobilizers and all the other electronics from them.
Good luck - you are close, you just need the right Indie now.
Hopefully you will not need this link:
http://www.ecudoctors.com/porsche-boxster-ecu-0261204790.html

Last edited by Gelbster; 03-03-2017 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 03-03-2017, 07:31 PM   #6
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Umm, I find this post extremely confusing. My impression is that the OP had a water damaged Immo/alarm module and bought a set of ECU, alarm module and key and put them in one by one until it then started once all of those components were installed. If so, that is no surprise. The immo/alarm/body control module whatever you want to call it is matched to the ECU and key. You do NOT need to replace them all if you find someone that can repair or clone the alarm/immo module.

Next, I get the impression that the engine is not responding to the throttle as expected, but the OP does not have the ability to check fault codes, so is speculating as to the problem. The only way to really know what is going on is connect to it with a scan tool. A generic scanner should get generic OBDII codes in the ECU, but it won't access manufacture specific faults. It would be better than nothing. A Durametric would be better, and a PST2 or PIWIS II the best.

If you want to see if the MAF is a possible issue, you can just disconnect it. If the car runs better (it uses throttle position and a default map to derive an assume MAF reading), then the MAF sensor is either defective, or you have an intake leak that is giving it improper readings. This is a quick "get you off the side of the road" type test, but not a test I would buy parts based on.

My advice, get the car to someone with the proper equipment to check it out or you will be spending more money needlessly.

YMMV...
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Old 03-03-2017, 07:42 PM   #7
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Agreed and yes, I am biased.
So many of these problems are quietly fixed or even prevented by having a competent ,honest Indie.
I sometimes try to hint to customers that they should let us do even their mundane maintenance. Frankly , we do not need that work. The Techs give 'the look' when their astonishing skills are demeaned by having to do a basic service. But the incidental results are sometimes interesting - the things they notice that are beginning to fail. They are not supposed to be looking for these items but if they can;t help but notice problems developing. The quick lube places or a diy customer - not so much. Often the advantage is very simple - we have the car is up on a full height lift with very bright lighting from all angles.
For all the wonderful technology ,sometimes a human relationship is more valuable.I like that.
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Old 03-04-2017, 06:40 AM   #8
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Also suggest to find an Indie who is a total geek on the Scanner subject. If not he will waste too much time getting this job done and it may make matters worse. As Mr.Stone wisely hints, it is a rare case that indicates the value of the Dealer.
Gelbster, which local indie you may suggest that are good at clearing codes and odd messages on the system?

My car is an '07 CS and every time I connect the Durametric I have to clear several odd codes that I do not really know what they are for and now I have an air bag red light that cannot be turned off and it is providing the P/N for the steering wheel air bag module that is pretty pricey.

Perhaps it is time to let someone that knows what he is doing to take a look :roll eyes:

In my area there are a couple of great shops like Vision, Hergersheimer, AASE, but all of them specialize on race cars, and what I need now is someone that has the experience with electronic systems in our cars, thank you for the suggestions.

Gilles
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Old 03-04-2017, 09:01 AM   #9
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Rennsport in Torrance.
Very expensive but very good. That makes them way cheaper than the well-intentioned fumblers imho.
http://www.callasrennsport.com/
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Originally Posted by Gilles View Post
Gelbster, which local indie you may suggest that are good at clearing codes and odd messages on the system?

My car is an '07 CS and every time I connect the Durametric I have to clear several odd codes that I do not really know what they are for and now I have an air bag red light that cannot be turned off and it is providing the P/N for the steering wheel air bag module that is pretty pricey.

Perhaps it is time to let someone that knows what he is doing to take a look :roll eyes:

In my area there are a couple of great shops like Vision, Hergersheimer, AASE, but all of them specialize on race cars, and what I need now is someone that has the experience with electronic systems in our cars, thank you for the suggestions.

Gilles

Last edited by Gelbster; 03-04-2017 at 09:26 AM.
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Old 03-04-2017, 11:20 AM   #10
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Rennsport in Torrance.
Very expensive but very good. That makes them way cheaper than the well-intentioned fumblers imho.
Torrance Porsche and BMW Repair | Callas Rennsport
Yes, I know Tony and his shop has great reputation, but I may need a passport to get there since I live on OC...

Actually, Callas is on the same parking lot as Steve Alarcon that does my alignments, and when I have to go there I end getting a day off from work and just wait fir the car..

Hopefully I can find someone closer to OC, thank you!

Last edited by Gilles; 03-04-2017 at 11:23 AM.
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Old 03-04-2017, 11:23 AM   #11
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It is much closer than the alternative in Georgia or Penn
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Old 03-04-2017, 06:16 PM   #12
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First check that every plug is in the whole way. Then reset the throttle. Disconnect the battery a couple minutes. Some say ground the Positive cable. Reconnect the Battery. with everything off in the car radio heater fan etc., doors closed. Turn the key on 30 seconds do not start the car. Turn the key off for 10 seconds. Start the car test the throttle response.

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