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Old 06-27-2015, 02:51 AM   #1
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Question Anyone tried drilled or slotted rotors on a Base?

I just changed my rotors and pads, and in the end went for the standard rotors. It's an easier job than I thought so that is good. I'm still wondering if it would have made any difference, apart from the appearance if I'd have gone for slotted or drilled rotors. Has anyone tried these on a 2.7 Base, and did you think it was worth the extra money?




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Old 06-27-2015, 04:16 AM   #2
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I installed Powerstop drilled and slots with ceramic pads on my 99 Base 2.5 Good price.I don`t track it so maybe a bit of overkill. There is a difference. OEM is fine for a DD.
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Old 06-27-2015, 04:25 AM   #3
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neither slotted nor drilled give better performance than the flat rotors you put on. Braking is all about surface area and heat dissipation. The space between the front side of the rotor and the inside of the rotor, with the vanes, allows the heat to be removed quickly and efficiently, as the rotor turns. The flat non-drilled surface provides maximum surface area for pad work and stopping power. Many argue that slotted or drilled rotor surfaces are necessary to release gases that build up as a result of the friction on the pad on the surface. That is a myth. They are really just for show. Some race cars use drilled simply as a weight saving device, but those folks understand that there is a performance trade off, and they consciously accept that. The rotors you put on are the best for performance.
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Old 06-27-2015, 05:33 AM   #4
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neither slotted nor drilled give better performance than the flat rotors you put on. Braking is all about surface area and heat dissipation. The space between the front side of the rotor and the inside of the rotor, with the vanes, allows the heat to be removed quickly and efficiently, as the rotor turns. The flat non-drilled surface provides maximum surface area for pad work and stopping power. Many argue that slotted or drilled rotor surfaces are necessary to release gases that build up as a result of the friction on the pad on the surface. That is a myth. They are really just for show. Some race cars use drilled simply as a weight saving device, but those folks understand that there is a performance trade off, and they consciously accept that. The rotors you put on are the best for performance.
That's pretty much the conclusion I'd come to but it's good to hear it from someone else it does make you wonder about the rotors they use on the Boxster S, maybe they're just for show.
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Old 06-27-2015, 05:45 AM   #5
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Several years ago, when I had the money for regular DE's, I swapped out the OEM braking system, on my '99 base 2.5L Tip, for a 2001 S big red system. The swap made a huge difference in braking at high speed specifically in turns where late braking was important. I also installed the GT air ducts for better cooling on the fronts. Although the new system has cross drilled and slotted rotors I can't say they made a difference as the whole system has to be accounted for in better braking. The Tips also carry about 400 lbs more weight than the sticks so better brakes are probably more noticeable. Now that I don't race anymore having better brakes on the road is a plus and those rotors really do look better.
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Old 06-27-2015, 06:08 AM   #6
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I am sure the solid rotors will work just fine. FWIW, I prefer slotted rotors because I have found in the past (on other cars) that they seem to wear more evenly. My theory on this is that the wiping action of the slots helps clean brake dust from between the pad and rotor which would otherwise form an uneven surface and cause uneven wear. Also, in cold rainy weather the slots seem to add a bit of extra bite. I've only run slotted rotors on my boxster, so I can't make a comparison to solid rotors on it.
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Old 06-27-2015, 06:57 AM   #7
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I have used multiple sets of solid, drilled, and slotted rotors.

For normal street driving, there isn't much difference between them. You can choose by price or by looks to get what you want.

For serious performance driving, the drilled rotors are by far my first choice. This is just my personal experience after using all three types on the track.

It could be a myth or all in my head and there might not be any true difference in braking performance, but I do know that I like the feel of the pedal modulation better with the drilled rotors. That much IS real.

The drawback is that track driving on drilled rotors will cause the rotor to crack out from the holes and will need replacement at every pad change. This typically won't happen on the street.
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Old 06-27-2015, 08:20 AM   #8
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Personal preference more than anything. I ran mostly Zimmerman (plain) rotors on my 986 and preferred them over drilled for maximum heat sink in track use. Slotted work well and also I have drilled on the 987.2 Cay which seem fine so far. Only a few track days in the Cayman though so the next set may change.

The other difference is in rotor cast quality. German cast rotors are very uniform and tend to last much longer than the cheapie Chinese knockoffs. They do cost more but tend to wear very evenly and don't have to be changed as often. I think this is more important than rotor style.
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Old 06-27-2015, 10:29 PM   #9
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Personal preference more than anything. I ran mostly Zimmerman (plain) rotors on my 986 and preferred them over drilled for maximum heat sink in track use. Slotted work well and also I have drilled on the 987.2 Cay which seem fine so far. Only a few track days in the Cayman though so the next set may change.

The other difference is in rotor cast quality. German cast rotors are very uniform and tend to last much longer than the cheapie Chinese knockoffs. They do cost more but tend to wear very evenly and don't have to be changed as often. I think this is more important than rotor style.
Seems like there is a bit of a range of opinions about this. I've put on Zimmerman rotors and Textar pads. Both seem very good so far, and with the possible exception of the look compared to drilled, I'm very happy. Unfortunately the cost of these parts in Australia is stupid, and it was still cheaper to get them from Pelican in the US including the $150 postage, than it is to buy some no name Chinese parts locally. How can that be? I don't know.
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Old 07-03-2015, 08:33 AM   #10
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I have Brembo calipers and slotted, drilled rotors on my '99 base...
I will also add that I have Porsche 19" wheels as well....
I like the feel of my Brembos which I also have on my Volvo 850 turbo (and seriously tweaked).

I like the feel of them and get pretty good mileage out of them...
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Old 07-17-2015, 05:57 PM   #11
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I have Stoptech drilled/slotted rotors with Pagid yellow(f) Porterfield (r) pads and the stopping (on track - track only car) and the stopping is amazing. Only done one w/e at Road Atlanta with them so far, but plenty satisfied! Burned out Zimmerman drilled rotors after only 3 w/e's. Cracked badly while still looking new!! Junk!!
I also run GT3 factory air diverter (ducts) to the brakes to aid in cooling, could probably use more cooling under really heavy braking conditions.
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Old 07-18-2015, 06:11 PM   #12
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Speaking of rotors, not trying to highjack just got a quick question...Where did I go wrong with these brand new rotors that are rusting? Its just cosmetic but obviously its a serious contrast to the rims and spacer and a huge annoyance Id like to avoid for my future rotors.

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Old 07-19-2015, 12:57 PM   #13
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[SIZE="2"]Speaking of rotors, not trying to highjack just got a quick question...Where did I go wrong with these brand new rotors that are rusting? Its just cosmetic but obviously its a serious contrast to the rims and spacer and a huge annoyance Id like to avoid for my future rotors.
Next time get rotors with painted hats and they won't rust out like these.
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Old 07-20-2015, 10:10 AM   #14
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Speaking of rotors, not trying to highjack just got a quick question...Where did I go wrong with these brand new rotors that are rusting? Its just cosmetic but obviously its a serious contrast to the rims and spacer and a huge annoyance Id like to avoid for my future rotors.

Give them a light sanding and then spray paint with Barbeque or high heat black - mask off the rotor as much as possible - the brakes will clean off any small amount of overspay.
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Old 07-20-2015, 02:49 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by TypeA View Post
Speaking of rotors, not trying to highjack just got a quick question...Where did I go wrong with these brand new rotors that are rusting? Its just cosmetic but obviously its a serious contrast to the rims and spacer and a huge annoyance Id like to avoid for my future rotors.

Give them a light sanding and then spray paint with Barbeque or high heat black - mask off the rotor as much as possible - the brakes will clean off any small amount of overspay.
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Old 07-21-2015, 03:33 AM   #16
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Speaking of rotors, not trying to highjack just got a quick question...Where did I go wrong with these brand new rotors that are rusting? Its just cosmetic but obviously its a serious contrast to the rims and spacer and a huge annoyance Id like to avoid for my future rotors.
What make are they? I'm hoping my Z Coat rotors will look good for a while.
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Old 07-21-2015, 12:05 PM   #17
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Zinc coated rotors will look good for a long time.

OP: I have cross drilled rotors on my base boxster and they make the car look like an S and they were actually cheaper than Porsche replacement discs.

If you want a really cheap upgrade to your brakes, replace the factory brake lines with stainless braided ones off eBay. Pedal difference is like before Viagra and after Viagra. Nice and stiff.
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Old 03-05-2016, 03:52 PM   #18
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Is it possible to do a complete swap of the drilled rotors and the larger calipers from the s model onto the base model (99-02)?
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Old 03-05-2016, 04:10 PM   #19
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Is it possible to do a complete swap of the drilled rotors and the larger calipers from the s model onto the base model (99-02)?
Yes, mine came off an '01 S but you must have 17" wheels minimum and the rear axle housings have to be swapped out so the emergency brake will work. The axle housings, from an S are larger due to the S axles being larger in diameter so you will either have to change axles or rig a bracket for the axle rotation counter so it fits closer to the smaller axle on your base model otherwise your ABS light will come on. It actually sounds more complicated than it is but, at least to me, it was worth the swap and I've had no issues in three years of use. I did not swap axles but opted for a mounting bracket for the rotation counter and have had no issues with it as well.

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