Is it possible to get 330 HP from a 2003 3.2L Engine?

[Jake Raby]

Originally Posted by KRAM36

You're making my mouth water. Can a Tiptronic trans handle that much power?

Yes. The tip will handle more power than a manual.

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by thstone

72hp? Realistically, if everything is done right, you might get 35hp (and 50% of the 35hp will be at >5000 rpm).

Intake: +5hp
Exhaust: +15hp (near redline)
Tune: +15hp

Finally got all my parts in and installed. Just got done with a test drive with the 987 air box, K&N air filter, 76mm TB and 997 Distribution T. Oh my goodness the car pulls sooooo much harder. I bet there is a 20HP gain with the way she pulls. Also have a little done to the exhaust. Car sounds like a beast too.

After all that work I thought I was going to be disappointed, not one bit . It's not just high RPM either, it's all the way through the power band.

I couldn't be happier. :dance:

[CraigM]

Pics!!! Got all my parts but the silicone bits, hopefully going in end of this week. Wanna see your set up!
Mine's the 2.7, so I think I'm fine with the 986 airbox. But from there it will be 996 TB and 997 T. Probably do the K&N filter, I know there's tons of back and forth on them but they seem to do fine unless over-oiled. As per some older threads around here, I got some gold foil for cheap enough to wrap some of it up and keep intake temps down. Might as well if I'm messing with it anyways.

[Dlirium]

Originally Posted by KRAM36

Finally got all my parts in and installed. Just got done with a test drive with the 987 air box, K&N air filter, 76mm TB and 997 Distribution T. Oh my goodness the car pulls sooooo much harder. I bet there is a 20HP gain with the way she pulls. Also have a little done to the exhaust. Car sounds like a beast too.

After all that work I thought I was going to be disappointed, not one bit . It's not just high RPM either, it's all the way through the power band.

I couldn't be happier. :dance:

and this is all w/o a tune?? wow...

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by CraigM

Pics!!! Got all my parts but the silicone bits, hopefully going in end of this week. Wanna see your set up!
Mine's the 2.7, so I think I'm fine with the 986 airbox. But from there it will be 996 TB and 997 T. Probably do the K&N filter, I know there's tons of back and forth on them but they seem to do fine unless over-oiled. As per some older threads around here, I got some gold foil for cheap enough to wrap some of it up and keep intake temps down. Might as well if I'm messing with it anyways.

I'll get some pics up soon. Right now my back is saying no more leaning over.

Originally Posted by Dlirium

and this is all w/o a tune?? wow...

No tune. I have some favorites twisties I love to run through. I was hitting them so hard I now know I need to get better brakes. Coming out of the corners is just a joy with the way she pulls.

[CraigM]

Hey KRAM36,
Where did you get your silicone couplers, particularly the 90 degree? I read to use a 3.25" to 3" 90 degree reducer, can't seem to find one (silicone intakes.com, etc). Are you using something else?

[The Radium King]

silicone elbow 3" 90 reducer 3.25" | eBay

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by CraigM

Hey KRAM36,
Where did you get your silicone couplers, particularly the 90 degree? I read to use a 3.25" to 3" 90 degree reducer, can't seem to find one (silicone intakes.com, etc). Are you using something else?

I used this to the TB, never mind what the picture says. The tube is 80mm.

Racing Silicone Hose Elbow Coupler Pipe 3 15" to 3 15" 90 Degree ID 80 mm Black | eBay

I used the end of my stock air pipping and that has the same O/D as the TB, but it is very thin, so I ordered in these, using 2 of them to strengthen the end of the pipping. One of them you will have to sand down a bit (put it in first), then the other one goes right on top of it and seals perfectly to the stock pipping. I also have the plastic welder that TRK mentioned and bonded them to the pipping.

One Set of 4 Hub Centric Rings Size 71 5mm to 75mm | eBay

Plastic Welder, man this thing comes in handy.

80 Watt Iron Plastic Welding Kit TPO TEO PP Rod Mesh Auto Car Welder Repair Kit | eBay

I got the same one from Harbor Freight. If you have a Harbor Freight I would get it from there. They are not of the best quality and if it breaks, just take it back for an exchange.

80 Watt Iron Plastic Welding Kit

I also used this to go from the stock MAF housing to the stock pipping, but since you're using the stock air box, you may want to use a 90° coupler there.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251554367827

and I also used a 75mm honeycomb air straightener at the MAF housing so the MAF sensor gets a better reading.

http://www.saxonpc.com/100mm-cells-for-100.html

I molded my stock MAF housing into the 987 MAF housing. This keeps the car from running lean and when I'm ready to open up to the 987 MAF housing size, I just unclip the stock MAF house and clip in the 987 MAF housing.

That will wait until I have my exhaust mods done, then I go get a tune done on her.

[CraigM]

Wow, eBay has so much more than I found anywhere else. Thanks, guys.

[KRAM36]

I'm not sure how you plan on doing the pipping. If it was me, I would cut the end towards the TB. Get the plastic welder, wrap the wire that comes with it and melt it into the pipping, then use the plastic strips that are included and melt that to the area with the wire. This will strengthen up the pipping so you can get a good seal on it.

TRK may have a better idea. I have a Tiptronic trans so my pipping is different then the manual trans.

[JAAY]

You all know this has been covered before right? 987 v 986 Air box I have done this mod as well as a few others. The IPD helps most when our variocam kicks in. If you are planning on doing all these mods you have to get your car to a tuner or have the ability to tune it yourself in someway. When you are done and all tuned up, you will not believe the transformation in your car. I don't recommend a K&N filter. Stay stock. I was advised to do this myself by one of the the best builders/racers around for good reasons. Stock is best.

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by JAAY

You all know this has been covered before right? 987 v 986 Air box I have done this mod as well as a few others. The IPD helps most when our variocam kicks in. If you are planning on doing all these mods you have to get your car to a tuner or have the ability to tune it yourself in someway. When you are done and all tuned up, you will not believe the transformation in your car. I don't recommend a K&N filter. Stay stock. I was advised to do this myself by one of the the best builders/racers around for good reasons. Stock is best.

You don't have to get a tune done when using the stock MAF housing. K&N filters have better air flow then a stock air filter, you just need to rid the filter of excess oil before installing it.

I do plan a tune, but that will be done after my exhaust upgrades and I'll be changing over to the 987 MAF housing and larger pipping then.

[JAAY]

KRAM, yes the K&N will flow better for a little while. If you change the location of the MAF you will most likely need a tune.

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by JAAY

KRAM, yes the K&N will flow better for a little while. If you change the location of the MAF you will most likely need a tune.

K&N will flow better then 5 new stock air filters before it needs a cleaning. It's the diameter of the MAF housing that matters, not location, although some say closer to the TB the better. The car runs soooo good right now I wouldn't think of doing a tune.

[JAAY]

Enjoy your car. I was just offering my experience. I must have been misinformed.

[KRAM36]

I just check my AFR's using this method with fully warm engine.

Proper AFR calibration is critical to performance and durability of the engine and it's components. The AFR defines the ratio of the amount of air consumed by the engine compared to the amount of fuel. The turbochargers increase the density of the air resulting in a denser mixture. The denser mixture raises the peak cylinder pressure, therefore increasing the probability of detonation. As the AFR is leaned out, the temperature of the burning gases increases, which also increases the probability of knock.

As a protective mechanism, the ECU is designed to make the AFR richer, reduce boost, and/or retard ignition timing to prevent catastrophic detonation, but also diminishing performance. These parameters need to be optimized to give the best performance with a margin of safety for the engine.

Rich versus lean, why lean makes more power but is more dangeros
A stoichiometric AFR has the correct amount of air and fuel to produce a chemically complete combustion event. For gasoline engines, the ratio is 14.7:1, which means 14.7 parts of air to one part of fuel. This ratio is dependent on fuel type-- for alcohol it is 6.4:1 and 14.5:1 for diesel.

Durametric reports lambda - a percentage of AFR based on the stoichiometric ratio. To report the proper AFR from Durametric, multiply the pre catalytic actual lambda by 14.7. For example, a lambda of 0.78 gives a AFR of 11.47:1 (0.78 * 14.7 = 11.47.)





In general, a lower AFR number contains less air than the stoichiometric AFR - hence the mixture is richer. A higher AFR number contains more air and therefore it is a leaner mixture.

For Example:
15.0:1 = Lean
14.7:1 = Stoichiometric
13.0:1 = Rich

A lean AFR results in higher temperatures when combustion occurs

Bank 1 Idle 0.98 = 14.406 AFR @ 4k RPM 1.01 = 14.847 AFR

Bank 2 Idle 0.96 = 14.259 AFR @ 4k RPM 1.02 = 14.994 AFR

Not bad, a tune would help or the computer needs more miles put into it, less then 100 miles since the upgrade, but like I said, the tune will be done after my exhaust upgrades and I'll be changing over to the 987 MAF housing and larger pipping.

[JAAY]

Those are also closed loop figures. How do you plan on checking open?

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by JAAY

Those are also closed loop figures. How do you plan on checking open?

EDIT: Please explain to me the best way to get my AFR's for closed and open loop. I thought closed loop was most important?


.

[KRAM36]

Another thing I'm thinking about changing is where the venturi tube for my Tiptronic trans connects into the pipping. Right now it connects into the pipping after the MAF sensor. So it's pulling air out of the system that the MAF sensor did not account for.



So I'm thinking about moving that connection to the air box before the MAF sensor. What do you think about that?

Move it to here? This would also allow me to use larger pipping and not worry about putting that connection into it.

[Smallblock454]

Originally Posted by JAAY

Enjoy your car. I was just offering my experience. I must have been misinformed.

Yeah, you are absolutely missinformed.
K&N has designed these oil-saturated air filters definitely for injector engines. LOL!

@KRAM:
Sometimes it's better not to think too much.
Life is complicated enough.