Durametric Results

[fishski]

I just received my Durametric package in the mail and immediately went out and starting playing with it. I bought it specifically to check my cam dev which from my searches on this forum and others I believe the acceptable values need to be +/- 6. Pretty sure I am in spec but want to make sure I am readying this correctly.

I have an 01 S with 21k. Obviously concerned about the IMS which I know can implode at any time without warning.

[fishski]

BTW, throughout the entire time I had the Durametric hooked up the lines were completely flat which I also think is a good thing.

Thanks.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by fishski

I just received my Durametric package in the mail and immediately went out and starting playing with it. I bought it specifically to check my cam dev which from my searches on this forum and others I believe the acceptable values need to be +/- 6. Pretty sure I am in spec but want to make sure I am readying this correctly.

I have an 01 S with 21k. Obviously concerned about the IMS which I know can implode at any time without warning.

The engine is still within spec, but one side is close to the limit, which could indicate chain pad wear. Normally, you would run the car on the road until it is thoroughly warmed up before taking these measurement's as doing it on an only slightly warmed up engine will generate misleading results.

And, yes, straight lines at idle are a good thing.

[steved0x]

I have read that the car should be completely warmed up for accurate results for cam deviation. And flat is definitely a good way to start a happy new year!

[fishski]

Thanks JFP. I think I was just so excited to get it I want to hook it up. I drove the car for about 30 minutes, back roads to highway. Had it over 100 MPH at one point to blow it out. I was just playing around with it. As with anything diagnostic you need to start with some baseline. I read a post you had commented on and you said there was someone you knew who had similiar numbers 2.92 and 5.91 I think and that has been unchanged since new and now had 59K I think. So, for me, its a starting value and I'll monitor it from there. What was most satisfying for me was the straight lines I saw through out my 30 minute drive.

One question I have is how can I learn what all these other options/parameters mean? I'm an IT guy by trade and not a mechanic although I am very mechanically inclined and I love to learn. Is there a book, video, training that I can buy to explain the many others things listed in this tool?

TIA.

[fishski]

JFP, how is the chain pad wear fixed? I'll do a search as well. Pretty sure from other searches it's complicated, i.e., similar process to replace IMS and same tools are needed.

TIA.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by fishski

Thanks JFP. I think I was just so excited to get it I want to hook it up. I drove the car for about 30 minutes, back roads to highway. Had it over 100 MPH at one point to blow it out. I was just playing around with it. As with anything diagnostic you need to start with some baseline. I read a post you had commented on and you said there was someone you knew who had similiar numbers 2.92 and 5.91 I think and that has been unchanged since new and now had 59K I think. So, for me, its a starting value and I'll monitor it from there. What was most satisfying for me was the straight lines I saw through out my 30 minute drive.

One question I have is how can I learn what all these other options/parameters mean? I'm an IT guy by trade and not a mechanic although I am very mechanically inclined and I love to learn. Is there a book, video, training that I can buy to explain the many others things listed in this tool?

TIA.

Not really; I'm afraid that most of that comes from experience. All serious diagnostic tools are designed for professionals, and most offer little in the way of instructions or in a particular explanations of how the car's diagnostic logic is set up.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by fishski

JFP, how is the chain pad wear fixed? I'll do a search as well. Pretty sure from other searches it's complicated, i.e., similar process to replace IMS and same tools are needed.

TIA.

Worn chain pads require replacement of the pads themselves. Your 01 is a five chain layout, which includes a wear pad between the two cams on each cylinder head which are the "usual suspects" when cam deviation values exceed 6 degrees.

I believe there has been a DIY write up on how they are replaced.

[fishski]

ok, I'll do a search for this...either way can I assume it still needs the specialized tools?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by fishski

ok, I'll do a search for this...either way can I assume it still needs the specialized tools?

Yes, you are going to need cam holding tools as you will need to remove the cam covers to change out the paddles.

[fishski]

Thanks JFP, appreciate all the input...