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Old 09-18-2014, 08:50 AM   #1
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Bad immobilizer box, repair question

I have a water damaged alarm/immobilizer (under the seat) box. I plan to get an entire set of DME, key, and immobilizer to replace it.
BUT...
I can't help from wondering if I could just de-solder the processor chip from my old water damaged board and put it onto a working board and use it with my current DME and transponder key.
Are there any engineers out there who know how this stuff works and can explain it to me? I know that the DME can be reprogrammed for the immobilizer, but the immobilizer chip is a write-once IC.

My background is that about 25 years ago I was a communications-electronics repairer who got in trouble for doing unauthorized repairs....

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Old 09-18-2014, 09:09 AM   #2
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My guess would be if you had the tools to do this you could take the chance but I believe you want the eeproms not the processor chip.
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Old 09-18-2014, 05:32 PM   #3
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IIRC there is a company that can repair them. They were on the forum in the last few months asking about interest in a water proof box. You might check into the repair.
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Old 09-19-2014, 11:53 AM   #4
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FWIW, I have repaired a couple of them, and also salvaged the "programming" from an otherwise unrepairable M535 module and transferred it to another good used one with an identical part number. No reprogramming was needed, other than to clear the fault codes that were stored in the module as it was failing. The data that you need is not in the processor, but rather stored in a separate IC. So in my experience, there is never a reason to have to replace everything.

This should be more than enough information for someone with a bit of an electronics background. Sorry, that is about all the info that I will share, as this kind of work is part of my business...
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Last edited by Qmulus; 09-19-2014 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 09-19-2014, 05:58 PM   #5
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Qmulus, thanks for the reply. That is really the info I was looking for and to be spoon fed the whole solution takes the fun out of it anyway. I'm pretty rusty in the electronics field, but with all the resources available online I can sort out the rest.

The waterproof boxes mentioned earlier sound like a great product. Although a wet floor isnt as dramatic as a failed IMS bearing, It probably leads to as may expensive failures.

-Jon

Last edited by 78F350; 09-19-2014 at 06:02 PM.
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Old 04-25-2018, 07:09 AM   #6
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Lightbulb Try this

If you are getting any fault codes on W line (Code 21, 19, etc)....make sure to test the relay nearest the blue connector. That is the problem I had and a few taps on it (as well as using a huge magnet) seems to correct it. It IS testing bad as the N.O. contact is NOT closing as it should no matter what voltage on relay coil is applied (Spec is 5 VDC).

Mechanical always fails before electrical

I am going to make a full diagnostic step-by-step on the 986 immobilizer soon, as i've really beat this thing up and it keeps working....mainly I feel it's unfair for local repair places to be charging owners 1100 to 1500 for a short operation to re-teach a new immobilizer. The part is only around $400 from porsche, so no repair in my opinion should be more than 500 dollars.
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Old 04-26-2018, 05:45 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irogag View Post
If you are getting any fault codes on W line (Code 21, 19, etc)....make sure to test the relay nearest the blue connector. That is the problem I had and a few taps on it (as well as using a huge magnet) seems to correct it. It IS testing bad as the N.O. contact is NOT closing as it should no matter what voltage on relay coil is applied (Spec is 5 VDC).

Mechanical always fails before electrical

I am going to make a full diagnostic step-by-step on the 986 immobilizer soon, as i've really beat this thing up and it keeps working....mainly I feel it's unfair for local repair places to be charging owners 1100 to 1500 for a short operation to re-teach a new immobilizer. The part is only around $400 from porsche, so no repair in my opinion should be more than 500 dollars.
Good I am looking forward to this.
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Old 04-26-2018, 08:46 AM   #8
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Unless you're hell bent on trying to repair it yourself, I'd just send it to Steve ("Qmulus", see above post by him). The un-repairable board he refers to above that he removed and transferred the information over to another was likely mine. My board was dead and badly corroded from water damage. It turned out to be un-repairable. However, as Steve says above, he was able to salvage all the information off my board, and re-program a good used board that he had on hand with all the information from my board.

I too looked into the replacement of the computer, immobilizer, keys, etc. It's not only a pain in the neck to change all that stuff out and significantly more expensive than what Steve does, but it also changes your car to a car that is now electronically NOT your car but rather another, the one that the stuff came out of. If you need keys, etc in the future, you're going to have a bit of a can of worms on your hands. Going with a repair done by Steve, you're car is left working perfectly, EXACTLY as it did the day before it got wet. Nothing will have changed at all.

I'll leave it to Steve to discuss costs if he wishes to, or you can contact him to discuss. It works flawlessly, and the cost was very inexpensive compared the the repair place in Florida that is more widely known, and it was literally a small fraction of the cost of having the dealer program and install a new immobilizer. I recommend Steve very highly. He's THE immobilizer repair guy - great work at a great price, fair and honest too. He is a pleasure to deal with.

Last edited by Doug427; 04-26-2018 at 08:50 AM.
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