O-ring replacement on the IMS cover..?

[Gilles]

Ok, the crank seal is not leaking, therefore I will leave it alone as this was replaced by the dealer during a pressure plate failure 2 1/2 years ago.

However, the cover for the IMS is seeping oil and I am trying to figure out how to replace the O-ring on the cover (without removing the bearing since it's an 07)..

My issue is that I have a BBI underdrive pulley that does not have the notch to show you TDC, it is a must to lock the crank at TDC in order to safely remove the IMS cover,
what else besides locking the crank at TDC is required (without messing anything else)..?

The pictures show the oil leak of 2 1/2 years, therefore is not too severe

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Ok, the crank seal is not leaking, therefore I will leave it alone as this was replaced by the dealer during a pressure plate failure 2 1/2 years ago.

However, the cover for the IMS is seeping oil and I am trying to figure out how to replace the O-ring on the cover (without removing the bearing since it's an 07)..

My issue is that I have a BBI underdrive pulley that does not have the notch to show you TDC, it is a must to lock the crank at TDC in order to safely remove the IMS cover,
what else besides locking the crank at TDC is required (without messing anything else)..?

The pictures show the oil leak of 2 1/2 years, therefore is not too severe

To reseal the IMS cover, you have to remove it, and that requires doing everything needed to do an IMS swap (engine locked at TDC, cams locked, tensioners removed, etc.) , but without removing the bearing as it would not come out anyway. Along with replacing the three seals around the flange parameter, you also need to replace the center bolt seal and use green wicking Loctite on the center bolt threads.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

To reseal the IMS cover, you have to remove it, and that requires doing everything needed to do an IMS swap (engine locked at TDC, cams locked, tensioners removed, etc.) , but without removing the bearing as it would not come out anyway. Along with replacing the three seals around the flange parameter, you also need to replace the center bolt seal and use green wicking Loctite on the center bolt threads.

Thanks Jeff,

I will ask BYProdriver to see if he has the cam locking tools, before I proceed with this project.

How easy would be to get true TDC without the notched front pulley?

Regards,
Gilles

.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Thanks Jeff,

I will ask BYProdriver to see if he has the cam locking tools, before I proceed with this project.

How easy would be to get true TDC without the notched front pulley?

Regards,
Gilles

.

Depends upon what pulley you have on the engine; some are marked, others are not and pose a problem.

[san rensho]

Are you going to pull the outer seal off the IMSB while you are in there?

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by san rensho

Are you going to pull the outer seal off the IMSB while you are in there?

I am not sure, if everything looks fine I may just leave it as is...

.

[pjq]

However, the cover for the IMS is seeping oil and I am trying to figure out how to replace the O-ring on the cover (without removing the bearing since it's an 07)..

Gilles is that a pic of a 2007 Box IMS flange? If so that means you can somewhat inspect the IMSB of a 987 without taking the engine apart to see/remove the IMSB?

[jsceash]

There is a similar cap on the 2007 and it can be pulled off, if you follow the proper procedures for locking the cam and loosening the chain for the 1-2-3 head. The external oiling systems they currently sell are being sold to inject oil directly into the bearing. So the outer seal has to be removed for that installation.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by pjq

However, the cover for the IMS is seeping oil and I am trying to figure out how to replace the O-ring on the cover (without removing the bearing since it's an 07)..

Gilles is that a pic of a 2007 Box IMS flange? If so that means you can somewhat inspect the IMSB of a 987 without taking the engine apart to see/remove the IMSB?

PJG, the picture of this IMS cover is from an '07 Cayman S (3.4), you can remove the cover to inspect and replace the seals.

However, since the diameter of the bearing is larger than the hole on the case you need to disassemble the entire engine to replace the IMS bearing on all the later engines...

I think this is called German engineering or something like that...

However, it seems that with the larger bearing, the failure rate seems to be smaller on the later engines.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

To reseal the IMS cover, you have to remove it, and that requires doing everything needed to do an IMS swap (engine locked at TDC, cams locked, tensioners removed, etc.) , but without removing the bearing as it would not come out anyway. Along with replacing the three seals around the flange parameter, you also need to replace the center bolt seal and use green wicking Loctite on the center bolt threads.

Jeff,

Ok, I spent all morning locating the flange seal, the cam seal plugs and the tool to lock the cams (kindly loaned by BYProdriver)

However, I DO NOT have the center bolt seal, is this seal a special one or can I get away with reusing the old seal along with some Locktite...? (I never heard of the 'green wicking' Locktite)

Another question is for the center bolt, do you simply bolt it in all the way and then use the nut to lock it in place..? Thank you!

Regards,
Gilles

[healthservices]

[Gilles]

[QUOTE=healthservices [/QUOTE]

Thank you HS, the only thing that is keeping me from moving forward is to confirm about the seal of the bolt.

According to the parts department at Circle Porsche it does not have a seal, and I am looking at the PET and does not show any seal, but I don't want to get going and then having to stop...

Worse still, would be doing the job improperly and having a leak that will damage the new clutch...


Edit:
Sorry but forgot to mention that when the sales person at the dealer was looking for the center bolt and seal, he mentioned that the bolt was not available by itself and that in order to buy the bolt I needed to buy the cover itself (at $140...) could be that the seal for the bolt only comes with the cover and bolt..?

Another question..
According to the shop manual you are supposed to replace the o-rings on the chain tensioners and according to the PET, at each tensioner you have a seal and also an o-ring, do you guys replace these seals an o-rings every time you loosen the chain tensioners?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Jeff,

Ok, I spent all morning locating the flange seal, the cam seal plugs and the tool to lock the cams (kindly loaned by BYProdriver)

However, I DO NOT have the center bolt seal, is this seal a special one or can I get away with reusing the old seal along with some Locktite...? (I never heard of the 'green wicking' Locktite)

Another question is for the center bolt, do you simply bolt it in all the way and then use the nut to lock it in place..? Thank you!

Regards,
Gilles

The factory center bolt has a recess machined into it that carries an O-ring oil seal, which is a common leak point.

Green wicking Loctite is a product designed to prevent oil from walking up threaded shafts and leaking, it is not a thread locker, but a thread seal:

Loctite Green Threadlockers|Thread Wicking of Pre-Assembled Fasteners - Henkel North America

The center bolt is part of the IMS bearing assembly, and in this photo you can also see the O-ring seal:

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

The factory center bolt has a recess machined into it that carries an O-ring oil seal, which is a common leak point.

Green wicking Loctite is a product designed to prevent oil from walking up threaded shafts and leaking, it is not a thread locker, but a thread seal:

Loctite Green Threadlockers|Thread Wicking of Pre-Assembled Fasteners - Henkel North America

The center bolt is part of the IMS bearing assembly, and in this photo you can also see the O-ring seal:

Jeff, thank you much for the picture it clearly shows the o-ring for the center bolt, however this O-ring seems to be on the 'engine side' of the bearing, which is a side that I will not have access because my bearing cannot be removed.

On the later engines (the ones you cannot remove the bearing) does the center bolt have the O-ring on the 'transmission side' of the bearing, meaning that I will be able to replace by removing the IMS cover?

If so, would you recommend installing a Viton seal (green color, high temp), since according to the dealer they do not offer a seal for the center bolt (or the center bolt itself) unless you buy the entire cover assembly @ only $140...

Sorry for asking so many questions... thank you for your support!

.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Jeff, thank you much for the picture it clearly shows the o-ring for the center bolt, however this O-ring seems to be on the 'engine side' of the bearing, which is a side that I will not have access because my bearing cannot be removed.

On the later engines (the ones you cannot remove the bearing) does the center bolt have the O-ring on the 'transmission side' of the bearing, meaning that I will be able to replace by removing the IMS cover?

If so, would you recommend installing a Viton seal (green color, high temp), since according to the dealer they do not offer a seal for the center bolt (or the center bolt itself) unless you buy the entire cover assembly @ only $140...

Sorry for asking so many questions... thank you for your support!

.

All OEM IMS have the O-ring in the transmission side of the bearing, so it will be out in the open when the cover is removed. Viton will be fine.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

All OEM IMS have the O-ring in the transmission side of the bearing, so it will be out in the open when the cover is removed. Viton will be fine.

JFP,
Thank you for clarifying the location of the seal..!
Regards,
Gilles

[Gilles]

Sorry but I have more questions...

My car has a BBI underdrive pulley that does not have a timing mark...
and I am trying to lock the crank at TDC.

Can I lock the crank at TDC based on the position of the cams ..?

Somehow I cannot download the picture better go to bed and try again in the morning :-(

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Sorry but I have more questions...

My car has a BBI underdrive pulley that does not have a timing mark...
and I am trying to lock the crank at TDC.

Can I lock the crank at TDC based on the position of the cams ..?

Somehow I cannot download the picture better go to bed and try again in the morning :-(

The purpose of locking the crank at TDC is to prevent the crank assembly from moving while releasing the cam drives. You should not be attempting this without the pin locking the crank at TDC as locking the cams will not stop the crank from rotating, even if it means temporarily putting the stock pulley back on the engine.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

The purpose of locking the crank at TDC is to prevent the crank assembly from moving while releasing the cam drives. You should not be attempting this without the pin locking the crank at TDC as locking the cams will not stop the crank from rotating, even if it means temporarily putting the stock pulley back on the engine.

Hello Jeff,

I am sorry when I posted the message it was way past my bead time... LOL
Yes, I WILL be locking the crank at TDC (at the flywheel side of the engine), the question is can I determine TDC by the position of the cams since my underdrive pulley does not have a mark on it.
Sorry for the crummy picture

[Gilles]

another picture (sideways..) but is more clear