07-26-2013, 02:53 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
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100's of time throughout my Porsche life, my customer cars went out riding higher than they did when they came in (after a spring change) LOL. Nobody considers that worn ass stock spring.
The assumption is: "They last forever".. umm... NO
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07-26-2013, 03:03 PM
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#2
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Registered User
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so are you saying the spring rate slowly drops and this causes a similar drop in ride height?
and Brad- at -.5" rear ride height should my specs be this far off??? Are Taret arms a bandaid or a justifiable and expected cure? Are the offset bushings you make a .002" pressfit and have any ever split the cast arm after they're in use?
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Last edited by woodsman; 07-26-2013 at 03:36 PM.
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07-26-2013, 03:03 PM
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#3
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550 Anniversary
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Surrey, UK
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It wasn't unexpected per se in my case as a lot of measurements and work had been done before the M030 was fitted and it was known to be running as low as an M030 car before the M030 was fitted. It was interesting to see the effect of the tip kit and stiffer rear springs though.
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Current: 550 Spyder Anniversary- Carnewal exhaust - 100 cell cats - stainless manifolds - 4" underdrive pulley - poly gearbox mounts - rear lower alu brace - adjustable rear toe links
Sold: 986S - Zenith Blue - 18" Sport Classics - Black Zunsport grilles - Stainless silencer and manifolds - K&N panel - shortshift - M030 suspension - 75mm throttle body - custom 83mm intake - SmartTop - custom remap - MDS underdrive pulley
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07-26-2013, 03:10 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edc
It wasn't unexpected per se in my case as a lot of measurements and work had been done before the M030 was fitted and it was known to be running as low as an M030 car before the M030 was fitted. It was interesting to see the effect of the tip kit and stiffer rear springs though.
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EDC- I fabricated another hole in the strut an inch higher to get the result I've got----1" drop FRONT
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07-26-2013, 03:16 PM
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#5
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550 Anniversary
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Surrey, UK
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What's the Max camber you can get with the additional lowering?
I actually don't really want to lower the car much more if at all but interested to hear what results you can get from a Geo perspective.
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Current: 550 Spyder Anniversary- Carnewal exhaust - 100 cell cats - stainless manifolds - 4" underdrive pulley - poly gearbox mounts - rear lower alu brace - adjustable rear toe links
Sold: 986S - Zenith Blue - 18" Sport Classics - Black Zunsport grilles - Stainless silencer and manifolds - K&N panel - shortshift - M030 suspension - 75mm throttle body - custom 83mm intake - SmartTop - custom remap - MDS underdrive pulley
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07-26-2013, 03:32 PM
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#6
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I'm currently at FR -1.1, -1.2 and RR -2.1, -2.2 with adjusters set for min camber and toe-in. My camber adjustment seems to have more effect on toe than camber. The two points of adjustment are so geographically close to one another and that dam unyielding trailing arm! Augh
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Last edited by woodsman; 07-26-2013 at 03:41 PM.
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07-26-2013, 03:35 PM
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#7
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550 Anniversary
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Location: Surrey, UK
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I am at just over -1.5 degrees neg camber on the front but I have the top mount slots drilled. There may be a fraction more to go. The rear is just under -1.5.
__________________
Current: 550 Spyder Anniversary- Carnewal exhaust - 100 cell cats - stainless manifolds - 4" underdrive pulley - poly gearbox mounts - rear lower alu brace - adjustable rear toe links
Sold: 986S - Zenith Blue - 18" Sport Classics - Black Zunsport grilles - Stainless silencer and manifolds - K&N panel - shortshift - M030 suspension - 75mm throttle body - custom 83mm intake - SmartTop - custom remap - MDS underdrive pulley
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07-26-2013, 03:47 PM
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#8
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EDC is your car neutral at the limit? That's what I'm looking for...
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07-27-2013, 01:12 PM
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#9
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550 Anniversary
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Location: Surrey, UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodsman
EDC is your car neutral at the limit? That's what I'm looking for...
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Mine is a road car only. I am no racing driver but would say I am fairly competent. I would describe the handling as neutral to rear led. I'm not worried about the front end washing out unless I go too fast into a hairpin type corner, how many of those do you see every day? The rear keeps it interesting though and at first it took a short while to adjust to the need to keep your foot in as it all books up so much better when on the throttle.
I have no idea what roads are like where you are but I do most of my driving on what are known as B roads which are typically narrow, twisty and a bit bumpy. The steering reacts even quicker than it used to and doesn't track the road cambers too much.
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Current: 550 Spyder Anniversary- Carnewal exhaust - 100 cell cats - stainless manifolds - 4" underdrive pulley - poly gearbox mounts - rear lower alu brace - adjustable rear toe links
Sold: 986S - Zenith Blue - 18" Sport Classics - Black Zunsport grilles - Stainless silencer and manifolds - K&N panel - shortshift - M030 suspension - 75mm throttle body - custom 83mm intake - SmartTop - custom remap - MDS underdrive pulley
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07-27-2013, 03:57 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
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Woodsman,
Toe plates: The only issue with making some or using these? No way to get the thrust angle correct (think dog tracking)
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We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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07-26-2013, 04:07 PM
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#11
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Registered User
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Quote:
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so are you saying the spring rate slowly drops and this causes a similar drop in ride height
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The OE springs drop in spring rate over time and they sag. It ends up lower than it was stock. If you are lucky, the springs sag at the same time/same amount!!
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We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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07-26-2013, 04:09 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
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I'd still like to see pics of your toe links and the inside adjusters!!
Something is not right.. and without seeing it, I can not figure it out.
Just hold your phone under the car and start snapping away in the general direction of the toe link!! then post the ones that turned out!!
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We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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07-26-2013, 04:10 PM
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#13
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When we install the solid bushings, we have to heat up the end of the toe link to press them in. It takes nearly NO pressure to press them out.
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We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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07-26-2013, 05:31 PM
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#14
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Registered User
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We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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07-26-2013, 05:38 PM
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#15
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Registered User
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I'm on crack.. 
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We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
Last edited by Brad Roberts; 07-26-2013 at 06:08 PM.
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07-26-2013, 05:46 PM
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#16
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Registered User
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__________________
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We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
Last edited by Brad Roberts; 07-26-2013 at 06:20 PM.
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07-26-2013, 06:05 PM
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#17
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Registered User
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so the left is wrong and the right is right- to me it seems the only diff is which end has the nut and which has the bolt head... the throw's the same and there's washers (eccentrics) on either side of the frame, either way- am I missing something?
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07-26-2013, 06:21 PM
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#18
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Registered User
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I believe the rear of the suspension hanger is different where the eccentric sits.
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We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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07-26-2013, 06:22 PM
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#19
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Registered User
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Can you run a tape measure from ground to the fender lip in the rear?
Metric is fine
Measure through the axle centerline.
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We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
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07-26-2013, 06:27 PM
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#20
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Registered User
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one moment please...
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