strange clutch behavior

[woodsman]

thanks for the response JFP. The pressure plate is a Sachs unit but it is supposed to have more clamping power than stock- something like 70 % good for around 400 HP. With regards to the release bearing, I see no method of attachment to the arm. There is nothing laying in the bellhousing and no hole for a spring or clip to fall through . Also they couldn't get the car to start with the new alu flywh and charged me 5 additional hrs labour for diagnosing . The old fly worked but the new would not but a week later and with another al flywh it started right up. I guess the clips got lost in the shuffle but would that be enough to actually prevent the clutchPEDAL from returning? Advice about the bolts taken.

(PS I won't tell you about the bent valves during the ims bearing install)

[Meir]

Originally Posted by woodsman

thanks for the response JFP. The pressure plate is a Sachs unit but it is supposed to have more clamping power than stock- something like 70 % good for around 400 HP. With regards to the release bearing, I see no method of attachment to the arm. There is nothing laying in the bellhousing and no hole for a spring or clip to fall through . Also they couldn't get the car to start with the new alu flywh and charged me 5 additional hrs labour for diagnosing . The old fly worked but the new would not but a week later and with another al flywh it started right up. I guess the clips got lost in the shuffle but would that be enough to actually prevent the clutchPEDAL from returning? Advice about the bolts taken.

(PS I won't tell you about the bent valves during the ims bearing install)

The realese bearing is suppose to snap on the realese lever, using a clip like strature that is part of the bearing.

[woodsman]

I guess the cage-like structure surrounding the bearing is defective. I would also like to underline the fact that the clutch BEHAVED NORMALLY unless the RPM's reached 4000. I'm afraid I'm going to have to shell out a lot more cash besides redoing the clutch job myself and this after paying $3500 for the last one. I ve got 10 000 MILES out of it!

[Homeboy981]

Hi Woodsman,

I had similar problem which turned out to be that I did not bleed the Clutch Slave properly at installation time. The Slave MUST GO IN with the Bleeder valve OPEN. Then, once assembled you bleed the Clutch Slave cylinder with the pedal mashed to the floor.

The Aasco LWFW has LESS thickness, as compared to a stock Dual-Mass Flywheel. That is why you cannot use factory flywheel bolts. So, your pedal may be off by a little on the clutch release point but should still return to the upright seated position, if bled properly.

I tried it without bleeding it first and had my pedal do similar things to what you have described. Also, I DID BLEED it for a long time - as there was plenty of air bubbles trapped deep in the Clutch slave system.

[woodsman]

Homeboy, did the symptoms show only after a certain RPM

[woodsman]

UPDATE: upon closer inspection, I can see what appears to be a (one) broken edge on the release bearings cage-like structure. Clutchmasters has requested that I send it to them and so I will. Could the solution really be this simple Hope! This would explain why the clutch worked fine for the first 3000 miles or so.