CV joints and axles - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

deliriousga · 12-02-2005, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gharari

I finally got the right axel out. I spent a lot of time going back and forth to autozone (closest place) getting tools: impact wrench (mine broke), axel puller that was too small for the hub, then the right axel puller.

I ended up not having enough clearance to get the axel out of the hub and remove it. After trying various things, what ended up working was to remove several of the bolts from the rear skidplate and bending it down a few inches. This allowed for the inside CV joint to come down below the transmission and the axle to clear the hub. It was a major PITA.

Hopefully the left side will be easier.

I didn't see how moving the exhaust would have helped. It wasn't really in the way. If I could easily get that skidplate off this would be a much easier job. Porsche really made it difficult here. They sandwiched the skidplate between the chassis and the diagonal strut.

I'd better get to the office now. I am about 4-1/2 hours late! I'm off tomorrow so hopefully I can finish it up.

Sorry, I have been extremely busy at work and unable to get back here. I will have ours up in the air tomorrow so I can take a look and compare it to the 928. It's easy to remove the skid plate. There are only about 8 bolts holding it on (all 15mm IIRC). If you have it on stands, just remove all of the bolts from the plate then loosen the two on the front end of each cross brace that is bolted on top of the plate so it can come out. Those braces are for on-road structural integrity so it's ok to take them off when it's up on stands. When you put it back on, make sure you torque the bolts down properly. I can't remember off-hand, but I'll look up the torque for 15mm bolts and post it in the morning.

gharari · 12-03-2005, 01:18 PM

The job's done. I used the same technique (bending the skid plate down) for the right side as well. The left side required ubolting the exhaust header flange so that the exhaust could drop down an inch to clear the axel.

I tried ubolting the cross brace where it was bolted to the skid plate and banging the studs out, but the studs wouldn't budge. I was hoping to bang those studs out and slide the skid plate out from between the cross brace and chasis. No go.

Out of frustration and worry that I wouldn't get the job done in time for today's Auto-x driving school, I failed to take pictures. I inended to write up instructions with pics.

I still may do that using pics the next time I change oil.

If anyone needs help with this job, feel free to PM me.

deliriousga · 12-03-2005, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gharari

I tried ubolting the cross brace where it was bolted to the skid plate and banging the studs out, but the studs wouldn't budge. I was hoping to bang those studs out and slide the skid plate out from between the cross brace and chasis. No go.

If you remove the cross braces completely then you can get the plate out by prying with a large screwdriver. Be careful not to bend it as the plate is part of the structural reinforcement.

Glad to hear you got it done. Congrats!

gharari · 12-03-2005, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deliriousga

If you remove the cross braces completely then you can get the plate out by prying with a large screwdriver.
Glad to hear you got it done. Congrats!

Thanks for the congrats. How should the cross braces be removed? Is that safe to do when the car is on jackstands? Will that cause anything else to move out of place? IS there a write-up somewhere on how to do that?

deliriousga · 12-03-2005, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gharari

Thanks for the congrats. How should the cross braces be removed? Is that safe to do when the car is on jackstands? Will that cause anything else to move out of place? IS there a write-up somewhere on how to do that?

I'll have to take pics of the cross braces I'm talking about to make sure we're looking at the same ones before I say yes. I have removed the ones that make a "V" and bolt over the front of the skid plate with no problems and nothing moving. AllData says it's ok to remove those braces with the car on stands under the normal jacking points. Those braces keep the differential from shifting right and left as you are driving. There is no write-up that I know of, but if you just remove the 5 bolts on each of the braces and the two nuts holding the skid plate, then you can use a large, flat head screwdriver under the lip of the skid plate to pop it off. Once it's off, drill slightly larger holes where the two original holes are that go on the studs and it will be easier to put it on and take it off later.

12-06-2005, 06:44 PM

gharari, did you use this grease:

The special grease is an NR Optimoly CV joint grease. This grease has been fairly standard for all of the German manufacturers for many years now. The porsche part number is 000 043 110 01.

gharari · 12-07-2005, 08:40 AM

not sure. I used the grease that came with the cv joint kit. The kit came with a new snap ring, boot, package of grease, and two boot clips.

I actually had a mechanic rebuild the axles. I tried to get the cv joint apart, but it was pretty stubborn and I was not sure I was doing it right. Also, I didn't have the special crimping tool needed for the boot clips. So I brought the axels down to my mechanic and It cost me $85 to have this done. I then brought the rebuilt axels home and installed them.

The mechanic did a better job at cleaning the CV joints than I could have done. He had a parts washer bin, etc. to do the job right.