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Old 09-05-2005, 08:43 AM   #1
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2002 Boxster S Clutch Replacement

Had the car in for some Warrantee work as well a complete check out and the dealer recommended a new clutch. He also recommended that I give him $1,800.00 for same..... Car has just hit 30K Miles.... I have a few questions....

#1 What kind of mileage have the other owners been getting on their clutches??

#2 Can anyone recommend a good mechanic in the LA Area that can do this work??

#3 Has anyone performed the job themselves and how did it go??

#4 Looking around online I see that most parts houses carry Sachs clutches. Is this OEM.?? Should I be going with another manufacturer?? I don't race the car nor do I intend to get involved with Autocross and the like but could be tempted. The plan is for me to put about 15K on the car a year for the next 5 years driving for business and pleasure....

#5 How can one really tell when it is time for a new clutch??

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Old 09-06-2005, 06:48 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Boone
#1 What kind of mileage have the other owners been getting on their clutches??

#2 Can anyone recommend a good mechanic in the LA Area that can do this work??

#3 Has anyone performed the job themselves and how did it go??

#4 Looking around online I see that most parts houses carry Sachs clutches. Is this OEM.?? Should I be going with another manufacturer?? I don't race the car nor do I intend to get involved with Autocross and the like but could be tempted. The plan is for me to put about 15K on the car a year for the next 5 years driving for business and pleasure....

#5 How can one really tell when it is time for a new clutch??
1) We're at 67K miles on the first clutch.
2) Sorry, no info.
3) There's an article on replacing your clutch at http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=25&t=5597 Also, I saw a post on one of the forums where someone did the clutch. I will be DIYing mine as it should be pretty easy, just time consuming.
4) Saches is OEM.
5) The first thing you will feel when the clutch disc starts going out is some slipping or delayed engagement when going from a stop on an incline. You can also have some vibration or squeaking noise that goes away when the clutch pedal is depressed (release bearing).

When you repace the clutch or have it replaced, you should have the clutch disc, release bearing, pilot bearing & clutch arm bushing (if it has one) replaced whether they are worn out or not. It takes a lot of labor to replace the clutch disc, so you don't want to have to pay for that labor to go back in later for a $20 bearing.

Also, you do not have to replace the pressure plate unless one or more of the "fingers" on the plate have hairline cracks.

If you DIY the clutch, I'd guess about 8 hours if you've ever done an clutch before or 12 hours if you've never done one.
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Last edited by deliriousga; 09-06-2005 at 07:16 AM.
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Old 09-06-2005, 07:14 PM   #3
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Thank You. If you do yours first let us know how it goes. I am pretty sure I can do it myself but don't know if I want to take the time and effort. I own a Porshe Official workshop manual for the car and it shows the need for a special support bracket that straddles the trunk and supports the engine while you have trans out. I am assuming it is actually necessary. God only knows how much the dealer wants for this special tool and I think it could be fabricated easily. My biggest concern is without the aid of a lift, how do you safely get the car high enough for the trans to roll out of the way from underneath it?? You have lift in your garage??? I don't......
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Old 09-06-2005, 07:19 PM   #4
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BTW I just glanced at the article you provided the link for and it looks quite informative. Thanks again.
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Old 09-06-2005, 08:50 PM   #5
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I just put an order in for mine last week I'll have the dealer install it when the time comes. No way am I paying their prices.
http://www.tweeks.com/shop?frame=8.2209
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Old 09-07-2005, 06:49 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Boone
Thank You. If you do yours first let us know how it goes. I am pretty sure I can do it myself but don't know if I want to take the time and effort. I own a Porshe Official workshop manual for the car and it shows the need for a special support bracket that straddles the trunk and supports the engine while you have trans out. I am assuming it is actually necessary. God only knows how much the dealer wants for this special tool and I think it could be fabricated easily. My biggest concern is without the aid of a lift, how do you safely get the car high enough for the trans to roll out of the way from underneath it?? You have lift in your garage??? I don't......

I don't have a lift. I use 6 ton SUV stands to hold her up. They have huge bases so they won't tip and I can raise it up 24". I used them on the 928 clutch and it was no problem at all.

For the special tool, I believe that article talks about supporting the engine from underneath. I always have a floor jack underneath, even with the stands, pressing lightly on the oil pan just in case so I'll put it where it can hold the engine up safely and even with the tranny. It doesn't look too hard to do with the whole thing coming out.

I'll be replacing mine along with a lightweight flywheel with inserts since the dual-mass OEM flywheel on mine is causing vibration. I'll let you know how it feels compared to the original whenever I get it done. I'm sure I'll be replacing it before you have to. Ours is a daily driver, 60-80 miles/day so it probably won't be long.
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Old 09-07-2005, 10:10 AM   #7
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My clutch feels like it catches a little on the high side (almost have to let it all the way out). Does this mean my clutch could be going or needs an adjustment, or is this normal? It still feels like it shifts and catches just fine...
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Old 09-07-2005, 11:44 AM   #8
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The clutch automatically adjusts itself so you don't have to worry about it.

As far as wearing out, as the clutch disc wears/thins, the pedal has to travel further out before the disc catches the flywheel.

To help with how the clutch works, here's a great article with animated illustrations of what happens inside the clutch assembly http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch1.htm

There are a couple of differences in your clutch from the one that's in the illustration. When you get to the exploded view of the clutch assembly, the clutch disc (plate) in their illustration has the central shaft attached, but in reality it is separate from the clutch disc. The disc slides back and forth on the shaft when the clutch is engaged so it can't be attached. Next, , it shows a pressure plate and diaphram spring. That's one fused unit rather than two separate parts in Porsches. The other thing is the release fork shown in the illustration is a heavier arm that's mounted vertically in Porsches.
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Old 09-07-2005, 06:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deliriousga
I don't have a lift. I use 6 ton SUV stands to hold her up. They have huge bases so they won't tip and I can raise it up 24". I used them on the 928 clutch and it was no problem at all.

For the special tool, I believe that article talks about supporting the engine from underneath. I always have a floor jack underneath, even with the stands, pressing lightly on the oil pan just in case so I'll put it where it can hold the engine up safely and even with the tranny. It doesn't look too hard to do with the whole thing coming out.

I'll be replacing mine along with a lightweight flywheel with inserts since the dual-mass OEM flywheel on mine is causing vibration. I'll let you know how it feels compared to the original whenever I get it done. I'm sure I'll be replacing it before you have to. Ours is a daily driver, 60-80 miles/day so it probably won't be long.
Thanks Again for the reply. I think 24" of jack stand would allow enough clearance as well. Might have to build up the car to that level as I don't think my floor jack has that much travel, but I am sure it can be done. I have now read the article you refered me to and it is quite good. I think the job can be done in a day as well. I guess I am just looking for some genuine symtoms before I go to the time and expense. The dealer warns me that if I wait too long I could damage the flywheel for an added $1K in parts..... probably just a bit of a scare tactic.
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Old 09-08-2005, 11:36 AM   #10
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My 02 Box S went in for work this week and had dealer looked at oil leak etc since warranty expires in March 06 - 22,000 miles and very little wear on clutch, I found this out since tranny was out for RMS replacement and flywheel! Luckily warranty work!
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Old 09-08-2005, 12:24 PM   #11
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The flywheel is about $550 at Sunset Porsche and in the $400 range for a lightweight aftermarket replacement with inserts. I believe most dealers charge around $800 for the part and $200 for the labor even though it's a 10 minute job once the clutch pack is out.

From what I've read in other forums I think you'll probably end up replacing the flywheel anyway so you might as well just do it all at once when it really does wear out. The only thing I would not wait for is a squeeky release bearing since that can cause more damage if it explodes.
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Old 09-08-2005, 07:47 PM   #12
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AHH man.. I knew I was in time for a clutch job. My clutch has that squeaky feel and noise. THe clutch is definately stiffer than a newer one, but I've never had any problems with slipage. Time for new clutch! I'm actually glad because I haven't enjoyed driving it as much lately.

ADAM. Did you get a quote on how much labor would cost at the dealer? I'll probably end up what you're doing since I'm strapped for time.
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Old 09-10-2005, 05:09 PM   #13
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The attached pdf may be usefull for those of us who intend to do the clutch replacemnt ala DIY. It also explains the spcial tool that supports the engine with the trans out I was trying to describe in my previous post. I got a price on this tool from a local dealer of $168.00 just for the crossbar (no feet) so I am now motivated to fabricate my own. Hope this is helpful.
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Old 09-10-2005, 05:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willche
My 02 Box S went in for work this week and had dealer looked at oil leak etc since warranty expires in March 06 - 22,000 miles and very little wear on clutch, I found this out since tranny was out for RMS replacement and flywheel! Luckily warranty work!

willche,

You needed a RMS replacement on an 02 S???
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Old 09-10-2005, 07:32 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralegen

ADAM. Did you get a quote on how much labor would cost at the dealer? I'll probably end up what you're doing since I'm strapped for time.
Naw, I haven't talked to them since 03. I should give them a ring one of these days though to find out what the damage will be for a clutch change. Let me know what yours quotes you.
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Old 09-11-2005, 10:48 PM   #16
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I have never seen the engine support bar shown in the shop manual and the tool catalog. None of the 8 mechanics at my local dealership use it, if they even have it. A few weeks ago one of the foreman and I went around the shop looking for it so I could take a picture. Could not find it. The foreman said he has never seen it.

They use an engine jack stand instead. So does another local dealer I have been to as they were doing a transmission replacement.
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Old 09-12-2005, 05:21 PM   #17
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I have never seen the engine support bar shown in the shop manual and the tool catalog. None of the 8 mechanics at my local dealership use it, if they even have it. A few weeks ago one of the foreman and I went around the shop looking for it so I could take a picture. Could not find it. The foreman said he has never seen it.

They use an engine jack stand instead. So does another local dealer I have been to as they were doing a transmission replacement.

I would never buy one, but I might fabricate one. I think it would keep the trans \ engine seperation a little smoother by taking off the bind between the two. Of course the same effect could be done with two floor jacks, one on the engine and one on the trans, but I only own one floor jack......
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Old 09-14-2005, 09:19 AM   #18
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Boone -

Very early to be thinking about a clutch in that car (unless it was driven by someone who rides the clutch at stop lights or on hills). Average replacement mileage for a Boxster is in the neighborhood of 90K.
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Old 09-14-2005, 09:23 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by deliriousga
Also, you do not have to replace the pressure plate unless one or more of the "fingers" on the plate have hairline cracks.
I would strongly disagree. The springs wear out and the surface glazes. Not replacing a pressure plate is a recipe for early wear on the new disk due to reduced friction and reduced clamping force.

If the flywheel is not replaced, have it machined (resurfaced).
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Old 09-14-2005, 12:05 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insite
I would strongly disagree. The springs wear out and the surface glazes. Not replacing a pressure plate is a recipe for early wear on the new disk due to reduced friction and reduced clamping force.

If the flywheel is not replaced, have it machined (resurfaced).
Unfortunately, it's a dual mass flywheel so it can't be machined, it has to be replaced. That's one of the things I do not like in the Boxster clutch.

With the pressure plate, I have the original pressure plate on the 928 after 110K miles and two clutch plates with nearly 50% more torque than the Boxster. Many other 928 owners have gotten 200K+ miles out of the pressure plate because of its' design.

In the end, it's always your money, but I'd keep the $250 for other things and replace the pressure plate when a crack is detected on one of the fingers at clutch plate change-out time. Here's what to look for to determine if you should replace it:

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