10-21-2012, 10:43 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Los Angeles County
Posts: 217
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My99 with 50k running rough and hesitation of power through the gears. Took out maf, cleaned, and disconnected battery. Started up and barely runs, no power at all. I guess it's time for a new maf.
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10-21-2012, 11:07 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 4,810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walt2810
My99 with 50k running rough and hesitation of power through the gears. Took out maf, cleaned, and disconnected battery. Started up and barely runs, no power at all. I guess it's time for a new maf.
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Are you getting a CEL ?
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10-21-2012, 11:17 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Los Angeles County
Posts: 217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Danger
Are you getting a CEL ?
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didn,t even get to drive it that far. the car shakes and shutter, doesn't even want to go anywhere.
don't want to chance it going down the hill from the house.
what do you think? have my foot on the pedal and goes 5 mph.
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10-21-2012, 12:06 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 4,810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walt2810
didn,t even get to drive it that far. the car shakes and shutter, doesn't even want to go anywhere.
don't want to chance it going down the hill from the house.
what do you think? have my foot on the pedal and goes 5 mph.
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I'm not an expert, but typically when the MAF sensor has failed, it will trigger a CEL. That's not to say that a failing sensor will always immediately trigger a CEL. In any case, sometimes when a sensor has failed it will cause the ECU to put the vehicle in "limp" mode. Hopefully others who are more knowledgeable than me will chime in.
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Don't worry … I've got the microfilm.
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10-21-2012, 12:13 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Los Angeles County
Posts: 217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Danger
I'm not an expert, but typically when the MAF sensor has failed, it will trigger a CEL. That's not to say that a failing sensor will always immediately trigger a CEL. In any case, sometimes when a sensor has failed it will cause the ECU to put the vehicle in "limp" mode. Hopefully others who are more knowledgeable than me will chime in.
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JD, thank you for all your input. "limp" mode is what it appears to be. Hope others can chime in, thanks for all your assistance
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10-21-2012, 12:19 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Sanford NC
Posts: 2,584
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You could disconnect the MAF and still run at 70. Dirty but still run.
Once you disconnect the battery, you aren't running with learned long term trims but in a basic mode and it isn't unusual to have to go through days worth of runs before the ECU gets smart again.
You need to get the car read by an OBD2 reader and see if you can figure out the causes.
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10-25-2012, 08:11 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Los Angeles County
Posts: 217
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Thanks for everyone's advice & knowledge on this MAF subject. Finally recevied a new Bosch MAF with 996.123 part # & new air filter (threw out the K&N). The car runs great now, haven't had performance like this in over 3 months. I guess the MAF must of been malfuntioning and causing the loss of power and rough idle.
The codes on the CEL were 1123, 1125, 1128, & 1130.
Also when comparing the old & new MAF, the old unit had a curved wire before the resistor? while the new unit has a perfectly straight wire.
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10-25-2012, 08:14 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walt2810
Thanks for everyone's advice & knowledge on this MAF subject. Finally recevied a new Bosch MAF with 996.123 part # & new air filter (threw out the K&N). The car runs great now, haven't had performance like this in over 3 months. I guess the MAF must of been malfuntioning and causing the loss of power and rough idle.
The codes on the CEL were 1123, 1125, 1128, & 1130.
Also when comparing the old & new MAF, the old unit had a curved wire before the resistor? while the new unit has a perfectly straight wire.
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I didn't pay attention to the wire but you should make sure the housing is exactly the same. Mine was different. Even though initially I thought the car ran fine, a few days later i realized it was lacking the power and very sluggish. Turned out they sent me the wrong MAF. New one is in and running good so far.
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10-25-2012, 08:28 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Los Angeles County
Posts: 217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bala
I didn't pay attention to the wire but you should make sure the housing is exactly the same. Mine was different. Even though initially I thought the car ran fine, a few days later i realized it was lacking the power and very sluggish. Turned out they sent me the wrong MAF. New one is in and running good so far.
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The new MAF looked exactly like the old one & had the 123 part# for the 99 w/o egas so hope it stays working. The Bocsh MAF comes wrapped in a yellow box with the hologram sealed sticker to ensure it is an authetic part. part # on the box 0 208 217 007
keeping my fingers crossed
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