3.4L Motor Swap Underway!

[insite]

the quikcenter tool works multiple ways. first, purchase the version with the correct diameter and thread pitch for the bolt/stud you are drilling out.

if there is a portion of stud protruding from the surface, thread the quikcenter onto the stud. now it will guide your 1/8" pilot drill bit directly into the broken stud.

if the stud is broken off BELOW the surface, you can twist the insert until it goes into the fastener hole. now you can guide your pilot bit.

finally, if the stud is flush with the surface, they make a collar that you glue to the surrounding surface. the centering tool will fit into the collar and allow guided piloting.

the tool is great. my only complaint is that they're made of aluminum and are a bit soft. i had to do ten bolts & my quikcenter is pretty much toast. the good news is that it was eight whole bucks. it was a life saver.

[Lobo1186]

So once you had the pilot holes drilled what course of action did you take? Did you just keep increasing the hole with larger and larger bits until you reached the threads? or did you use a left handed bit?

you also mentioned earlier different methods of annealing and hardening did you actually do any of that? I just want to make sure I have the right weapons before going into battle on this one. So that if even only one bolt breaks on the headers what would be all the tools necessary to get that ******************** out. (god knows I hate easy outs and have not worked for me yet.)

[insite]

Originally Posted by Lobo1186

So once you had the pilot holes drilled what course of action did you take? Did you just keep increasing the hole with larger and larger bits until you reached the threads? or did you use a left handed bit?

you also mentioned earlier different methods of annealing and hardening did you actually do any of that? I just want to make sure I have the right weapons before going into battle on this one. So that if even only one bolt breaks on the headers what would be all the tools necessary to get that ******************** out. (god knows I hate easy outs and have not worked for me yet.)

tell us a little about what you are trying to extract. for me, the metal was so pitted and soft that extraction was impossible. i stepped up the holes to an oversize & tapped them for helicoils. two quick tips: do NOT use a cordless drill and step up in 1/64" increments (anything more & you will lose your center).

btw, i did try annealing & hardening. too much corrosion for it to make a difference.

MOST of the time, a lot of penetrating lube & some finesse & the header bolts come right out. i never had a problem before. the issue here was that the engine sat on a shelf for EIGHT YEARS after having been hit w/ some degreaser that likely didn't get washed off all the way. the alkalinity coupled w/ the elements absolutely destroyed the metal at the bolt / head interface.

[insite]

one more thing: the 1/8" pilot bit that comes with the quikcenter is junk; don't bother using it.

i recommend Irwin cobalt bits. i think they're available at ace. they're a bit more expensive, but they work a LOT better & get throught the metal in no time. use some cutting oil to help keep the bit cool & sharp.

[Lobo1186]

I really do not know what I am looking at quite yet as I have yet to start the project, the car is a 2001 base with 65k. I plan on hitting it with some PB blaster a couple of times in the days before I start (i dont drive the car every day so i wont be driving it with the pb on it)

I just heard that often the header bolts on these cars break so I just want to be prepared.

[BYprodriver]

I just tried the new Loctite Freeze & Release spray on some alignment pins. Worked great.

[chaudanova]

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

I just tried the new Loctite Freeze & Release spray on some alignment pins. Worked great.

Which local stores can you get this at?