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Old 09-29-2010, 01:08 PM   #1
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wow; talk about overkill. this is what happens here when we don't constrain the budgets of our engineers: mission creep. what's with the rivets? looks like a casting sandwich? i'd have to play with it for a bit, but in trying to solve a single failure mode, they appear to have introduced about four more......
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Old 09-29-2010, 02:13 PM   #2
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I think the second "fail safe" bearing is an interesting idea, but the way this thing looks with hex cap screws and rivets is completely lost on me. Why, of all things, would the flange have rivets in it? Is it supposed to look cool, like the fake 2 piece wheels? LOL

I have the LN IMS "upgrade" in my engine, which contains 3 bearings, but unfortunately cannot be done without sending the whole shaft to them, though I do love the idea that it's not one single point of potential failure.

I think it's wise to consider this thing a preventative maintenance item, to be replaced at every clutch job.

Now, I'm also completely lost how they claim they have "engineered" a prescribed amount of "slip" into the interface between primary and secondary bearing. Sure, you get far enough and you'll throw cam timing faults, but how is the bearing supposed to only "slip" so far?
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Old 09-30-2010, 03:55 AM   #3
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the flange on that thing really does look cast to me. right off the bat, that indicates this is in fact NOT a spare no expense solution.
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Old 09-30-2010, 04:03 AM   #4
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verdict on CRC Freeze Off: GIMMIC

i think the reason it works for people is that it does contain penetrating lubricant. it does not, in fact, cool the part to -47deg. i followed their directions on a loose bolt; the coldest i could get it with a 20sec spray was around +39F according to my IR thermometer. that's not very cold.

on the other hand, using a can of office air duster, a 10sec spray from the UPSIDE DOWN can cooled the bolt to -18. i certainly could have cooled it further this way.

the CRC stuff has the oil mixed in; i think it interferes with the phase change of the refrigerant & makes it less effective. spraying the upside down can of air duster, though, spits out 100% liquid that converts to 100% gas on contact. it's this phase change that supplies the primary mode of heat transfer.

i tried this on the studs to no avail. dry ice would still work a lot better than either of these. liquid nitrogen? even better than that.....

looks like i'll need to break out the big guns this weekend.
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Old 09-30-2010, 06:45 AM   #5
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good to know. good luck
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Old 09-30-2010, 07:00 AM   #6
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How far from the bolt did you hold the nozzle? IIRC you need to be 6" (or was it 12" ?) from the part for it to work properly. I have no first-hand knowledge though.
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Old 09-30-2010, 07:03 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen wilson
How far from the bolt did you hold the nozzle? IIRC you need to be 6" (or was it 12" ?) from the part for it to work properly. I have no first-hand knowledge though.


it comes with a straw & says to use the straw and hold it 'close to the part'. i tried holding it right next to the part & also 6" away. no real difference.
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