HELPPP!!!!??? Engine Cooling Problem.

[JFP in PA]

Or you could spend about $90-100 and purchase a vacuum fill system the totally eliminates any chance of air entrapment in the Boxster or any other car for that matter. Great addition to the tool box.............

[saturk]

Vacuum Fill System looks like a great option. Would provide info on where to purchase?

[Brad Roberts]

Last time I checked.. the vac system required an air compressor..


B

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Brad Roberts

Last time I checked.. the vac system required an air compressor..


B

You are correct, but the required air supply is pretty low, so even a small compressor is enough to evac, leak test and refill the cooling sysytem on an M96 engine in just a few min.......................

[PlayersExpress]

Hey Brad, thanks for the step-by-step.. Ill check it out today. Maybe a couple of pics wouldnt hurt.

Just a question, does it matter if i leave the wire up after Im done, and what exactly is the purpose of the up/down of the wire and the false door?

I'm just curious because I'm not the most knowledgeable as Im only 19, but Ive learned a lot by doing almost all my own maintenance on my car for the last 3 years since I bought her.

Thanks,

Adam

[Brad Roberts]

Adam,

my helper is 18 and an engineering student going to school close by

I'll snap some pics and post them shortly!



B

[PlayersExpress]

Wow, thats great.. 18 and going for engineering. Im double majoring in Pharmacy and Business Administration.

Pictures would be great if I could get them, and just a quick question, does it matter if i leave the wire up after Im done, and what exactly is the purpose of the up/down of the wire and the false floor?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by saturk

Vacuum Fill System looks like a great option. Would provide info on where to purchase?

Company is called "UView" out of Canada (they have an excellent website), they have a virtual store on Amazon.com. Their stuff is also sold by several other "tool sites" as well......

[lizBox]

Brad Roberts wrote:

>> 10. Let it idle again
>> 11. Repeat step 9
>> 12. Let it idle again
>> 13. Repeat step 9
>> 14. Let it idle
...
>> 20. Drive around a few days with the steel wire to the coolant expansion cap in the UP position.
>> 21. Keep checking the level while the wire is in the up position.
>>
>> Side note: we run with the wire UP everywhere ALL the time.

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A few questions on this.

How long should it idle between revs ?

Any down sides to running with wire up all the time? Why wouldn't you want to do this?

thanks much

[kluver]

I Just had a similar problem and had to take it to the shop. Found out that there was indeed a bubble in my system. The had to vacuum the system out twice. The first time they thought it was done but when they took it for a ride, the engine light would flash and coolant was gone. They vacuum again and it finally worked! They also had to replace my coolant cap because it wasn't holding enough pressure they say.

Here's my story before this all began. I noticed the engine light flashing and top it off with coolant and it would go away..humm strange I thought. Then after several weeks of being normal, the engine light flashed again. I topped off again but this time almost the whole coolant bottle. The next day driving, my engine light flashed and I pulled over and looked inside my trunk. The coolant cap was spraying coolant around up inside my trunk. The carpet was not wet inside but I noticed coolant was dripping where you saw your drip as well. However, my was not as much as yours. I also noticed on the rear bumper that there was a bunch of water spots that was not noticeable until it was pointed out to me by the shop that the coolant was spraying from the cap and just dripping down and being kicked up by the wind when I was driving. Check your bumper (wipe it clean and see if you noticed any hard water spots). if you see the same as what I describe than hopefully your situation is like mine. The shop was worried that it may be a warning sign that I might have cracked one of my cylinder head but in the end it was like I stated above...just air bubble and cap problem. I would suggest you also buy a new coolant cap and bleed the system for bubble. Also make sure that there is no leak/break in the coolant container. Hope that helps. The total cost was $300. It was well worth it from me since time is essential but more importantly I know what to do the next time. If you're getting frustrated find a local independent (reliable) shop to have then do it. Hope that helps.